What Is Your Best Two building Rules?
#3
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yupper... you guys pretty much nailed all my 'cardinal' rules
Build them light.
Build them straight
I tend to take more time cutting and sanding than gluing (make the joints as perfect as possible)
and use the right materials (epoxy where required, ply where required)
one more of my own personal rules (with only a few exceptions)
build them to LAST and to be easy to maintain.
(exception as an example... if I were building an airframe specifically for competition, that airframe really doesn't need to last more than 2 seasons at most, but DOES need to be LIGHT)
Build them light.
Build them straight
I tend to take more time cutting and sanding than gluing (make the joints as perfect as possible)
and use the right materials (epoxy where required, ply where required)
one more of my own personal rules (with only a few exceptions)
build them to LAST and to be easy to maintain.
(exception as an example... if I were building an airframe specifically for competition, that airframe really doesn't need to last more than 2 seasons at most, but DOES need to be LIGHT)
#4
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#11
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I have built more helicopters in the last 4 years than planes so these are my 2 first Heli rules.
Rule 1. Loctite every nut and bolt.
Rule 2. Check that you loctited every nut and bolt.
Rule 1. Loctite every nut and bolt.
Rule 2. Check that you loctited every nut and bolt.
#12
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My top 2 rules (this is getting redundant):
#1: Build it straight. If it's not straight, it's not worth flying.
#2: Build it light. Once it's straight, the lighter it is, the better it flies.
Here's a few things I do to abide by these rules:
Cut and sand every glue joint for a perfect fit before glue is applied. Cut a new part if required. Less glue = less weight (rule #2), better fit = better accuracy (rule #1).
Correct wood for each application. Light where it works, strength where required. Provides accuracy where required (rule #1), builds in lightness (rule #2).
Correct glue for each application. Use the lightest glue that is advisable for a joint but don't be afraid to use epoxy where required. Light glue = light plane (rule #2), strong joints = accurate plane (rule #1).
Careful positioning and jigging of each part before gluing. Accuracy of construction (rule #1), increases accuracy of joint to reduce glue (rule #2).
Just my 2 points and 2 cents.
Dave
#1: Build it straight. If it's not straight, it's not worth flying.
#2: Build it light. Once it's straight, the lighter it is, the better it flies.
Here's a few things I do to abide by these rules:
Cut and sand every glue joint for a perfect fit before glue is applied. Cut a new part if required. Less glue = less weight (rule #2), better fit = better accuracy (rule #1).
Correct wood for each application. Light where it works, strength where required. Provides accuracy where required (rule #1), builds in lightness (rule #2).
Correct glue for each application. Use the lightest glue that is advisable for a joint but don't be afraid to use epoxy where required. Light glue = light plane (rule #2), strong joints = accurate plane (rule #1).
Careful positioning and jigging of each part before gluing. Accuracy of construction (rule #1), increases accuracy of joint to reduce glue (rule #2).
Just my 2 points and 2 cents.
Dave
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Sometimes the journey is better than the destination
#17
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Forgive me while I gibber a bit... Since I haven't built a successful airplane beyond assembling an ARF or perform repairs post stripping the covering I find that I run out of "focus" or "drive" if it can't be done quickly and easily... I'm working on a TF GS P-47 bash and I kept stalling over the last two months. The razorback conversion from WylieWarbirds.com went on pretty easily... I struggled with the Bondo... The fiberglassing was rushed as sanding is my least favorite pastime. Now I'm at the point in the bash that I've got to do the detail work... Install electronics, engine, blah, blah, blah... boring out the Robart pin hinges and getting them right...
This is the reason that I haven't bought a kit yet. Laziness is a project killer.. too many distractions. I prefer to buy my birds and fly 'em til they're no longer flyable... Eventually... Later rather than sooner I'll slow down enough and commit... I'm thinking a big ME109 w/ an inline Kolm.. that would be ****-hot
This is the reason that I haven't bought a kit yet. Laziness is a project killer.. too many distractions. I prefer to buy my birds and fly 'em til they're no longer flyable... Eventually... Later rather than sooner I'll slow down enough and commit... I'm thinking a big ME109 w/ an inline Kolm.. that would be ****-hot
#18
Thread Starter
Lots of good input here so far. I can't speak for anyone else but the only epoxy I use on my wood structure airframes is laminating epoxy to bond my balsa sheeting to the foam cores utilizing vacuum, otherwise everything else is bonded with thin and medium CA including engine boxes, firewalls, and landing gear blocks, there is one exception to that though, I also use a little Gorilla glue for installation of wing tubes, spar caps, and servo rails in the foam parts prior to sheeting.
Bob
Bob
#19
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The responses from most of you sounds very familiar: 1. Read twice
2. Build it straight
3. Build it light
4. Sand
5. Use correct glue
6. Good coffee and music LOL
7. Have patience and a good sense of humor
8. (I do it all the time) Glue my fingers together or to the plane
My only advice is to not give up because the best part of building is when the plane flies, take very little trim and lands like you think it should. Beautiful thing
Dave
2. Build it straight
3. Build it light
4. Sand
5. Use correct glue
6. Good coffee and music LOL
7. Have patience and a good sense of humor
8. (I do it all the time) Glue my fingers together or to the plane
My only advice is to not give up because the best part of building is when the plane flies, take very little trim and lands like you think it should. Beautiful thing
Dave
#20
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Rule #1: Build something different, it's nice to show up with something nobody else has. (Yea, you have to draw your own plans and scratch build it)
Rule#2: Build them big, the bigger they are the better they fly. (Also as I get older I can't see the small models)
Last edited by lawrence b; 02-06-2014 at 10:05 PM.
#21
Number one for me is to never fly anything I did not build from plans or of my design and two would be never ever push a build so hard that it starts feeling like a job. This is a hobby for me and will never be a way to make a living so just relax and enjoy the build.
#22
enjoy building ..drink some good beverages of your choice...check your cuts/fit twice before gluing...dont build two wing halves at a time(no i havent done it yet and some good music or an interesting show in the back ground
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Hey, Lawrence B,
Is that Yellow dual engine Disk aircraft based upon some experimental aircraft of the past or your own design?? I would love to show up to the field with something like that, I know that I would be the only one here with one!!
That's one interesting looking plane!!
Craig.
Is that Yellow dual engine Disk aircraft based upon some experimental aircraft of the past or your own design?? I would love to show up to the field with something like that, I know that I would be the only one here with one!!
That's one interesting looking plane!!
Craig.
#25
Craig, since Lawrence hasn't answered yet, i'll chime in. The yellow plane is a scale model of the Vought V-173 flying pancake. I can attest to Lawrences building skills ( he is a Top Gun contender ) and all his unusual models fly extreamly well. Dont want to get off track here just want to answer your question.....Gene