Replacement bearing questions
10-22-2011, 02:26 PM
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Replacement bearing questions
Ok, so im looking to order and replace the bearings in two engines, first is the saito FS91, second one is a super tiger .61. I have looked at rcbearings.com and they have what I need, but my question is why is there three differant choices to choose from? Theres ceramic, stainless steel, or both ceramic and stainles. Im sitting wondering what to choose. Why would one pic one versa the other?
10-22-2011, 03:15 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
Well ceramic and stainless won't rust.....and as I understand it you can gain a few hundred RPM using ceramic.....no they don't break ceramic ball bearings are very hard...if you have the money thats the way to go
10-22-2011, 04:01 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
Ceramic bearings tend to end up on high rpm or racing engines. Stainless is a nice upgrade from stock and will suit you well. I put stainless in my glow engines and forget about them, they last and run well.
This is from boca's website:
This is from boca's website:
Ceramic Hybrid Bearings have Steel races and Ceramic Balls. Ceramic Balls are suitable for applications where high loads, high speeds and extreme temeratures are factors. Long life and the need for minimal lubrication make this material appropriate for extreme applications. Ceramic is non-porous, non-magentic, non corrosive and lighter than steel. In ball form, ceramic balls are also harder than steel and because ceramic balls are non-porous they are virtually frictionless. and capable of spinning faster than steel balls.
Stainless Steel 440C Series Radial Bearings contain a martensitic-type stainless steel used extensively in bearing applications that require hadrness, dimensional stability, corrosion resistance and toughness. Stainless Steel 440C is resistant to corrosion from fresh water, steam, crude oil, gasoline, perspiration, alcohol, blood and food stuffs. Stainless Steel does contain some carbon so it is still slightly magnetic and may eventually rust.
Stainless Steel 440C Series Radial Bearings contain a martensitic-type stainless steel used extensively in bearing applications that require hadrness, dimensional stability, corrosion resistance and toughness. Stainless Steel 440C is resistant to corrosion from fresh water, steam, crude oil, gasoline, perspiration, alcohol, blood and food stuffs. Stainless Steel does contain some carbon so it is still slightly magnetic and may eventually rust.
10-22-2011, 04:47 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
IMO, ceramic ball bearings are a waste of money in 99% of R/C applications as is anything above a ABEC 3 bearing. The stainless bearings will serve a long and useful life in our engines.... And save a few bucks in the end. I spent 5 years in an industrial supply house selling bearings and attended several training seminars sponsored by Timken and Fafnir. Well, at least at the time they were Timken and Fafnir.....
Ken
Ken
10-22-2011, 05:33 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
Thank you guys, that really answers my question. I feel the stainless is the way to go for me and thats what I felt before the question, but needed input from you guys. im gonna place an order now and wait for them to arive. Thank you.
10-24-2011, 12:57 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
Ceramic balls can come apart and when they do they will destroy your motor. We dealt with it for a while with the heli engines when ceramics were the "thing to have"
Most people now just run the cheap bearings, there's no difference in performance and you have money to spend on fuel which will make you fly better.
Most people now just run the cheap bearings, there's no difference in performance and you have money to spend on fuel which will make you fly better.
10-24-2011, 02:19 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
Ive got the bearings ordeded, I exspect them by wed, or thursday. I have never rebuilt an engine or replace the bearings before, how long should it take to remove and install? Any important tips?
10-24-2011, 04:04 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
I did try Ceramic in an engine used for racing. It did add a couple hundred RPM and they held up very well. I still use stainless in all of my own rebuilds.
I work mostly on four strokes and it takes me about two hours to replace a ring and bearings. Longer if I lap the valves. A two stroke takes much less time.
I use rapidly boiling water to heat the case to remove the bearings and before I assemble. It expands the case evenly. Others like using the oven.
I work mostly on four strokes and it takes me about two hours to replace a ring and bearings. Longer if I lap the valves. A two stroke takes much less time.
I use rapidly boiling water to heat the case to remove the bearings and before I assemble. It expands the case evenly. Others like using the oven.
10-24-2011, 04:33 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
Hey greybeard, Is there anything speacial to use to clean the block with, Id like to have it looking new when Im done.
10-24-2011, 04:51 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
ORIGINAL: kenh3497
IMO, ceramic ball bearings are a waste of money in 99% of R/C applications as is anything above a ABEC 3 bearing. The stainless bearings will serve a long and useful life in our engines.... And save a few bucks in the end. I spent 5 years in an industrial supply house selling bearings and attended several training seminars sponsored by Timken and Fafnir. Well, at least at the time they were Timken and Fafnir.....
Ken
IMO, ceramic ball bearings are a waste of money in 99% of R/C applications as is anything above a ABEC 3 bearing. The stainless bearings will serve a long and useful life in our engines.... And save a few bucks in the end. I spent 5 years in an industrial supply house selling bearings and attended several training seminars sponsored by Timken and Fafnir. Well, at least at the time they were Timken and Fafnir.....
Ken
10-24-2011, 06:26 PM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
ORIGINAL: SCOTT42
Hey greybeard, Is there anything speacial to use to clean the block with, Id like to have it looking new when Im done.
Hey greybeard, Is there anything speacial to use to clean the block with, Id like to have it looking new when Im done.
10-25-2011, 01:37 AM
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RE: Replacement bearing questions
What about brake cleaner? Ive never used it on aluminum before, now that shouldnt hurt should it? Or a soak in a can of parts cleaner?
04-09-2014, 07:43 PM
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Be careful of cleaners that will discolor the aluminum. Demon Clean, crock pot, and Dawn for sure is safe if you don't overheat or leave it on too long.
04-10-2014, 05:41 AM
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Ceramic balls can come apart and when they do they will destroy your motor. We dealt with it for a while with the heli engines when ceramics were the "thing to have"
Most people now just run the cheap bearings, there's no difference in performance and you have money to spend on fuel which will make you fly better.
Most people now just run the cheap bearings, there's no difference in performance and you have money to spend on fuel which will make you fly better.
This is a True statement. I have a friend that tried ceramic bearings and they came apart. Just use stainless steel bearings, they last a very long time.
04-10-2014, 07:15 AM
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Scott: click on this link, it is a great video on how to replace bearings. I keep the website in my Favorites for a reference>
http://www.rcmodelreviews.com/bearings.shtml
04-11-2014, 08:44 AM
#17
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This is an old thread so I'm sure Scott figured it out, but since others are going to be seeing it I'm going to mention that stainless bearings are actually less durable than plain steel ones. The 440C stainless is easier to dent than the 52100 high carbon steel. So plain steel bearings won't get notchy as easily as stainless ones will. That can be a factor in surviving crashes and prop strikes, as well as surviving the installation process when the user is a little too ham fisted about it. Stainless is only an advantage in humid environments where bearings frequently have to be changed due to rust before they actually wear out.
04-13-2014, 12:16 PM
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I guess stainless bearings are ok but it is addressing a problem that doesn't exist. Stainless bearing races are not as hard as plain old carbon steel races and really not necessary in our engines. And ceramic bearings have a habit of breaking up under high RPM and destroying an engine, even though they will add a couple hundred RPM. Plain old carbon steel bearings are fine in our engines and are the most inexpensive. I guess stainless are fine if you already have the engine apart for some reason or are replacing worn bearings, but to take an engine apart for the express purpose of changing the original bearings in favor of stainless is unnecessary. And ceramis bearings are only necessary in racing engines.
04-13-2014, 10:16 PM
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This is an interesting thread with good info. I'm getting set to replace the worn out bearings in my 55AX. They are starting to whine after 10 years or so. I asked Paul at RC Bearings and he said he tells everyone to replace the worn out ones with stainless, so I ordered the stainless set for $21 something. We'll see how they do, maybe it will be back to std. bearings on my other 55 when it needs them. Jolly, isn't rust an problem that does exist at times?
My stainless set came in the mail real fast. The small front bearing has a shield on both sides. Is it okay to leave them both on? Is this a true sealed bearing or will oil still get through the shields? Thanks.
My stainless set came in the mail real fast. The small front bearing has a shield on both sides. Is it okay to leave them both on? Is this a true sealed bearing or will oil still get through the shields? Thanks.
04-15-2014, 08:50 AM
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Yes Ernie, rust can be a problem and in a float plane or engines subjected to water for some reason, stainless would be the ticket, but in most airplane applications I don't believe staineless or ceramic is necessary. Our fuels have at least 15% oil in them. After running an engine, the entire inside of the engine is coated with fuel. As the methanol and nitro (If nitro is in the fuel) evaporate, what is left? Oil. An engine that has been run and then put up for awhile will have a thin coating of oil encasing the internal parts and tend to keep the internals from rusting. At least that is what I have come to believe over the years. I could be wrong.
04-15-2014, 12:08 PM
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" Just use stainless steel bearings,"
Some are under the misunderstanding that stainless is extraordinarily hard stuff. It is NOT. It's only claim to fame, is its resistance to rusting. I would use standard bearings in any thing that I had to replace bearings in. I have never had bearing rust in a properly cared for engine.
Les
Some are under the misunderstanding that stainless is extraordinarily hard stuff. It is NOT. It's only claim to fame, is its resistance to rusting. I would use standard bearings in any thing that I had to replace bearings in. I have never had bearing rust in a properly cared for engine.
Les
04-16-2014, 05:24 PM
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Max and I are in a very dry climate so we don't really have a rust problem. I run my engines dry at the end of the day to get rid of the alcohol left in the engine so it doesn't draw moisture but there is a good oil film left behind. Seems to work very well, I have never had a rusted engine. Living in Washington is maybe a different story and I would use stainless bearings but here it just doesn't mater. When I lived in Huntington Beach it was another story, rust was a problem if you didn't use your planes on a regular basis. I get good mileage from standard and stainless bearings so it isn't a problem.
