PROBLEM with my DA-50!!
#26
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I'll stay polite but let me tell U that I won't come back here for long time!!!!! If You are to busy, just don't respond nothing to the people who try to resolve small issue before send it to the doctor far away and wait for that.... BYE!
#27
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I completely agree with Speedracerntrixie here...
Troubleshoot in steps, changing only ONE thing at a time:
you rebuilt the carb to fix a problem. rebuilding the carb did not fix the problem.
So, move on to the next most likely issue, the ignition.
1) change the sparkplug, and run the engine. if that fixes the problem, great. if not go to step 2
2) make sure the ign battery is fully charged, and has the correct voltage for your ign module (and not higher) if that fixes the problem, great. if not go to step 3
3) Try a different (identical) Ign module.
unfortunately there is only so much troubleshooting that can be done at home. when you get to the point where you've tried everything you can think of,
your only real option is to send it back to DA (they DO have EXCELLENT customer service)
hope that helps! (and don't listen to the folks who don't like DA and tell you to try another brand. )
Troubleshoot in steps, changing only ONE thing at a time:
you rebuilt the carb to fix a problem. rebuilding the carb did not fix the problem.
So, move on to the next most likely issue, the ignition.
1) change the sparkplug, and run the engine. if that fixes the problem, great. if not go to step 2
2) make sure the ign battery is fully charged, and has the correct voltage for your ign module (and not higher) if that fixes the problem, great. if not go to step 3
3) Try a different (identical) Ign module.
unfortunately there is only so much troubleshooting that can be done at home. when you get to the point where you've tried everything you can think of,
your only real option is to send it back to DA (they DO have EXCELLENT customer service)
hope that helps! (and don't listen to the folks who don't like DA and tell you to try another brand. )
#28
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Cool Jim! That's effectively the way I've done it, step by step, and exactly in your order. And the last try with another ignition module will be done soon cause my friend will bring his one today or tomorrow. So I'll let U know somme news about it! Thanks! Paul
#30
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Oh I don't worry a lot with them, I have 3 DLE30, 1 ZDZ40, 1 Webra, and this very good DA. So anyway this issue is kind of weird! I mean my DA50. It can run at 5000 rpm for 2 minutes with good sound, and slowly he come down gradually. If I move down the throtle stick he won't die. If I wait 2 minutes I'll be able to come back at about 5000 rpm again; but if I push more he die for sure rapidly. I tried again yesterday with another batterie( 4.8 V and 6.0 V ) with no results.
I like to take my time before send it to the company; it's a kind of chalenge for me to find the solution. But if I don't find I'll do it right away. Ok so I'll be back soon! Paul
I like to take my time before send it to the company; it's a kind of chalenge for me to find the solution. But if I don't find I'll do it right away. Ok so I'll be back soon! Paul
#32
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Thanks Bob! I apreciate your suggestion too! After checking correctly with another ignition module I'll verify again the carb before sending my engine to DA !
#34
Sylo:
Just curious, I don't see where anyone has asked you what mix you are using in your DA-50? I ask because you stated that the engine will run but then sag. If this is the case, I do not believe you have an ignition issue. Especially if it will idle just fine. If from idle to transition to high speed and it runs fine then sags the engine is getting lean.
If you are running amzoil at 100:1 like some guys do I would go back down to 32:1 and see if the issue goes away. If still sagging on the high end an d since you repaired the carb, I have another question for you
Is the idle higher than normal? You might want to ensure the carb spacer block is completely sealed and not cracked around the bolt hole area. If it is you are getting air through that area and it will lean the engine out. When installing the carb back onto the engine it does not take gorilla strength to tighten the bolts. You want them tight but not overly tight.
Let me know what you find.
Glenn
Just curious, I don't see where anyone has asked you what mix you are using in your DA-50? I ask because you stated that the engine will run but then sag. If this is the case, I do not believe you have an ignition issue. Especially if it will idle just fine. If from idle to transition to high speed and it runs fine then sags the engine is getting lean.
If you are running amzoil at 100:1 like some guys do I would go back down to 32:1 and see if the issue goes away. If still sagging on the high end an d since you repaired the carb, I have another question for you
Is the idle higher than normal? You might want to ensure the carb spacer block is completely sealed and not cracked around the bolt hole area. If it is you are getting air through that area and it will lean the engine out. When installing the carb back onto the engine it does not take gorilla strength to tighten the bolts. You want them tight but not overly tight.
Let me know what you find.
Glenn
#35
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Hi Glenn! My mix is 40:1 with good oil. Also it sagging since before I rebuilt the carb. And yes, the idle is really good.... But as I told, I'll check the ignition module before the carb again... Thanks a lot for your advise!!
#36
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Likely a good reason the OP isn't ready to jump on the "send it to DA" bus....from Wikipedia : Chad (Arabic: تشاد Tšād; French: Tchad [SUP]i[/SUP]/ˈtʃæd/), officially the Republic of Chad, is a landlocked country in Central Africa. It is bordered by Libya to the north, Sudan to the east, the Central African Republic to the south, Cameroon and Nigeria to the southwest and Niger to the west
It may just be slightly inconvenient to ship....
ALL of the suggestions to go very methodically through a process, one change at a time is really the best suggestions you've gotten.
I think if it starts, idles, and runs at lower speeds, I would tend to think there is a carburetor jet issue - maybe the high speed port in the venturi has some crap that moved into it during the rebuild???
Sometimes, the LAST thing I messed with ends up being what has started the newest problem....worth re-checking, maybe.
It may just be slightly inconvenient to ship....
ALL of the suggestions to go very methodically through a process, one change at a time is really the best suggestions you've gotten.
I think if it starts, idles, and runs at lower speeds, I would tend to think there is a carburetor jet issue - maybe the high speed port in the venturi has some crap that moved into it during the rebuild???
Sometimes, the LAST thing I messed with ends up being what has started the newest problem....worth re-checking, maybe.
#37
Guys I can't beleive! I rebuilt my carb, change gaz tube, change gaz, try to adjust needles many differents way etc etc.... And my DA still have the same problem, he start well , have a good idle. But when I push the throtle he goes well for maybe 15 secondes and after go down slowly and want to die. If I try to push the throtle again he want to die but if I wait 1 minute and push he goes very well and go down again and die. I tried to open or close the high needle and samething for the low one and it doesn't resolve the issue!! Somebody have and idea about what happen with my precious DA ? Thanks! Paul
I have used DA motors for years. I had my oldest DA50 start acting strange last summer. Out of no where it started running great and just start falling off till it finally died. I found the seal between the motor and the carb had split. Now with all that said if you cant figure it out I would send it in to DA the customer service is some of the best around.
#39
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IF OP is actually in Canada, that can make return/repair much easier, for sure (I'm guessing).
#41
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I had a da50 that acted like that a couple of year ago, it would rev up and slowly dies minutes after. I found out I had some gunk inside one of the carb port hole, after cleaning it really well, it works like a charm. Good luck with issue.
#42
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Sending an engine out and waiting for its return takes time . If you have the skills and the inclination to try and trouble shoot the problem and ask for help along the way isn't dumb in my opinion .
#43
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Last summer I had trouble with my G26 . It would start easily and idol fine but would not hold high rpm's . It would just slowly die . It was very insensitive to hs needle settings It was a new motor and should have been clean but I pulled the carb apart several times trying to see what was wrong . I could never find anything wrong . I finally gave up and sent it back to Horizion and they found there was a very small crack in the insulator block causing an air leak . The shipping to horizion was expensive from Canada but they covered everything else . What your engine is doing sounds a lot like how mine was behaving .. I would pull the carb and the insulator block and have a careful look to see if you can see any flaws . If there is anything that looks suspicious I would replace it .Also you must be very careful about how you align the gaskets because it is easy to block the little galleries in the carb if the gasket is in wrong . I am guessing you have a Walburo carb , most of the small gassers do . Also I do not see why a person could not take one of these engines into a power saw shop or some place like that to get a skilled small engine tech to look at it before shipping it out of your country because they should be farmiliar with that type of carb . and probably even have parts . As for the ignition units I am not sure if they can be tested but a shop could probably do that too .
#44
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I completely agree with Speedracerntrixie here...
Troubleshoot in steps, changing only ONE thing at a time:
you rebuilt the carb to fix a problem. rebuilding the carb did not fix the problem.
So, move on to the next most likely issue, the ignition.
1) change the sparkplug, and run the engine. if that fixes the problem, great. if not go to step 2
2) make sure the ign battery is fully charged, and has the correct voltage for your ign module (and not higher) if that fixes the problem, great. if not go to step 3
3) Try a different (identical) Ign module.
unfortunately there is only so much troubleshooting that can be done at home. when you get to the point where you've tried everything you can think of,
your only real option is to send it back to DA (they DO have EXCELLENT customer service)
hope that helps! (and don't listen to the folks who don't like DA and tell you to try another brand. )
Troubleshoot in steps, changing only ONE thing at a time:
you rebuilt the carb to fix a problem. rebuilding the carb did not fix the problem.
So, move on to the next most likely issue, the ignition.
1) change the sparkplug, and run the engine. if that fixes the problem, great. if not go to step 2
2) make sure the ign battery is fully charged, and has the correct voltage for your ign module (and not higher) if that fixes the problem, great. if not go to step 3
3) Try a different (identical) Ign module.
unfortunately there is only so much troubleshooting that can be done at home. when you get to the point where you've tried everything you can think of,
your only real option is to send it back to DA (they DO have EXCELLENT customer service)
hope that helps! (and don't listen to the folks who don't like DA and tell you to try another brand. )
Except for just one thing. Is the carb fixed or not? I do not think that has been established. Maybe it is fixed - maybe it is being proved that it is not fixed. I would do cheap easy things first like replace the plug, but I might replace he carb before the ignition module. Or whatever makes the most sense . . . I just would not assume because you rebuilt it that it is fixed.
Also - it is no big deal to send it in to DA. I did it after a bad crash to have it checked out. That is not a bad suggestion. You could end up replaceing things that do not need to be replaced before you find out what the real problem is and end up wasting time and money.
#45
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The fact that the engine starts easily, transitions, does not sputter/miss and seemingly gets to full throttle then gradually drops RPM and the carb is not leaking fuel tells me that it's not a carb issue. I have had a DA ignition that had a faulty timing circuit and it behaved much the same. I have also had a bad ignition battery and the engine behaved close to what is being described. I agree that the less frustrating thing to do would be to send it in but some guys like myself like to troubleshoot themselves so we can learn things along the way that will benifit us in the future.