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covering/primer

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Old 05-09-2014, 05:14 AM
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Buck Barker
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Default covering/primer

Hi: I am building a 1/4 scale Bud nosen Areonca champ. I decided to use Solartex for the first time. I chose the natural color, and will be painting it. What I want to know is, do I need to prime the fabric first, and if so what would I use? The final paint will be acrylic enamel.....I might add that this is the nicest covering material I have ever used.
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:42 AM
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Good choice for covering Buck, no need to prime the Solartex before you apply color. The natural colored Solartex is meant to be painted. I have used it on many of my models and love it. Some time try using Klass Kote epoxy paint you won't regret it...Good luck!
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:44 AM
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I agree with VJ. I did adhesion test on natural Solartex with rustoleum, nitrate dope/rustoleum, and BUSA primer/rustoleum. All passed the scotch tape snap off test. Latex sticks well too. Only potential problem is fraying at the cut edges which tends to be exaggerated by the paint. A couple coats of nitrate dope and rubbing down with steel wool cleans this up.
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:04 AM
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Hey: You guys are great.. The pull off test was not a consideration. It`s the problem with some paints attacking a different substrate, and lifting it. Hence: a ruined paint job. With the NAPA acrylic enamel I am using, it will shine like the sun.. Wohoo!
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:26 AM
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Rodney
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+1 on the recommendation for Klass Kote for a really permanent and good paint job.
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Old 05-09-2014, 03:57 PM
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I guess I haven`t run into Klass Kote yet, as I usually use automotive paints, especially eurathane , base coat clear coat, and it will go over almost any kind of under coat/primer etc. Weight I don`t worry about as I don`t fly anyway, and I usually build large airplanes. I guess I am the clubs builder and fixer....I found some pictures, but I can`t get them to download.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:02 PM
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My Connie will most likely never fly because it is too expensive. Especially for a person who doesn`t fly any way. I had to build it, because it was the first airplane I flew with Eastern air Lines back in the early 60`s. A great memory.
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Buck Barker View Post
I guess I haven`t run into Klass Kote yet, as I usually use automotive paints, especially eurathane , base coat clear coat, and it will go over almost any kind of under coat/primer etc. Weight I don`t worry about as I don`t fly anyway, and I usually build large airplanes. I guess I am the clubs builder and fixer....I found some pictures, but I can`t get them to download.
Auto paints are perfect for use with Solartex. I prime only over sheeted areas, and only when I'm trying to simulate metal, by filling the weave.

Base coat/clear coat provides a high quality finish. I haven't gone to that expense, however. I used acryllic enamel.
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:05 PM
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I am using acrylic enamel on this plane. (1/4 scale aeronca champ, but in most cases I use a base coat, clear coat urethane.....On my super Constellation, I am using a product put out by the ALSA corp., called Ghost Chrome. I haven`t seen any other paint that comes so close to polished Chrome. Exfpensive, but very real looking.
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:18 AM
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Don't expect too much out of the Alsa product. A friend tried it, and came away disappointed.

When I build my Luscombe Silvaire, I plan to use self adhesive. metal foil. I used it on the cowl, of the Ryan pictured above.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:27 AM
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I have already done the Connie wing and cowls, and they came out really good, and I didn`t find the ALSA product hard to use at all. The only thing I have left to use the ALSA stuff is the very bottom of the fuse. Just waiting for the weather to warm up.










s
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:33 AM
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A quick question, maybe a dumb question; from what I have read here, you can cover a sheeted balsa and framed plane with natural solartex and paint it just like you would a glassed plane; I guess substitute Solartex for glassing; what about covering up the weave? using a primer will accomplish this, right?

What are the advantages of Solartex over glassing, other than the ease; I would think Glassing is stronger because the resin soaks into the wood where Solartex would not.

I thought/read that you use Solartex over open areas and glass the sheeted area, and paint; could not just use Solatex to cover the entire plane, like a large scale Warbird like a P-51 and paint it?

Thanks.

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Old 05-13-2014, 09:34 AM
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Dasintex, no problems covering your entire plane with Solartex. It will go over open bays as well as sheeted areas. Natural Solartex is meant to be painted and does not require any priming, simply apply the paint right over the covering. There is also no need to fill the weave on this product like you would on a traditional cloth covering, you will only be adding unecessary weight.

Solartex is a great covering, it is very easy to apply, but it's not the lightest. It can't be compared to the strength of glassing. Fiberglassing over a sheeted area will yield much more strength than using Solartex. You made mention of the resin soaking into the wood, you don't get this using Solartex because no resin is being used. Solartex is definitely more stout that using plastic films such as Monokote or Ultra-Kote. Hope this helps.

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Old 05-13-2014, 10:13 AM
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VincentJ;

Thanks for the reply, you say it's not the lightest, I would assume that Monokote/Ultrakote is the lightest, I'm also assuming that if you didn't Primer Solatex, it would be lighter than Glassing? I'm interested in painting a Warbird to avoid using shiny Plastic Films, without going through all the work of Glassing; Solartex seems like a great alternative.

Another quick question, does Solartex wrinkle like Monokote/Ultrakote when the plane is left in the sun?

As far as strength; it seems that if ARFs are sold and already covered with Monokote/Ultrakote and perform well without falling apart, than Solartex would be sufficient and provides a method to be able to paint your bird the scheme you want without the work of glassing?

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Old 05-14-2014, 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by dasintex View Post
VincentJ;

Thanks for the reply, you say it's not the lightest, I would assume that Monokote/Ultrakote is the lightest, I'm also assuming that if you didn't Primer Solatex, it would be lighter than Glassing? I'm interested in painting a Warbird to avoid using shiny Plastic Films, without going through all the work of Glassing; Solartex seems like a great alternative.

Another quick question, does Solartex wrinkle like Monokote/Ultrakote when the plane is left in the sun?

As far as strength; it seems that if ARFs are sold and already covered with Monokote/Ultrakote and perform well without falling apart, than Solartex would be sufficient and provides a method to be able to paint your bird the scheme you want without the work of glassing?
A friend does as you propose. He fills the weave with nitrate dope, to create a smooth surface. He then uses a laquer auto primer, and auto paint. He does this only on fully sheeted models. The finish is outstanding, but like Vincent states, there is a heavy penalty in weight gain.

Glassing isn't that difficult. Vincent has a nice tutorial in his current thread. Maybe he will provide a link to it.

Years ago, I taught myself how to glass, using Minwax Polycrilic. These days, I prefer epoxy finishing resin.

There should be vids on You Tube, ilustrating both methods.

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Old 05-14-2014, 06:52 AM
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I love this Solartex, but over a sheeted surface I still prefer glassing. I use West Systems epoxy. If I am just prepping for paint, I use 0 .7 oz glass and I thin the expoxy with no more than 10% Isoprople alchohol. the 99% stuff. Tack one end of the glass withthin CA, and brush it on, and squeegy it of with a credit card. If I am looking for more strength, I use 1.7 oz glass cloth. Works good and lasts a long time. The rest is just prime, sand and paint.
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Old 05-14-2014, 04:17 PM
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http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gian...-build-33.html Here's the link, it starts on post #822.
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