dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

Yes it is possible but that ignition would have to be throwing out enough RF on 2.4 to wipe out the entire 2.4 band.
Frankly I dont believe it. That ignition can't be that crappy.I suspect you had a bad receiver.

Charlie P.

You are transmitting induction directly to the receiver by hooking it to the ignition circuit. An ignition spark is wide-band.

Do what you like but I run a seperate ignition battery and keep all servos 10" from the plug. Haven't had a glitch to date.

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

If you have a defective ignition you can get interference on 2.4. Seen it. Also have have seen a defective cap that wouldnt seat properly cause glitching. The broadband high voltage spike of the spark can screw up a lot of things.

sensei

Yes I agree a defective ignition module with enough spiking, a loose cap on the plug, chaffed wires or whatever could probably cause enough noise to be a problem with just about any receiver, and if it was causing a problem 6' away then that could most likely cause a crash anyway, even if everything was setup in line together or not. All anyone can do is perform their own homework, troubleshoot their own problems, setups and programming issues and maybe even purchase and try a new ignition module in this case if all other remedy attempts fail. Anyway I do hope your find your problem.

Bob

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

What have you determined so far ?

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

Yes a spark is wide band but the high frequencies are very easy to filter out.
The capacitive reactance is inversely proportional to the frequency. The capacitance of just two wires close together is enough to be a short at the frequency of 2.4GHZ. In order to transfer frequency that high you need a waveguide. A coax will work for a short distance but not very far. A twinlead, which a servo connection is, would not work.
Remember, interference from an ignition does not have the code so the receiver will reject it. A reflected signal does have the code.
As an experiment I drove an ignition system with a function generator so it was producing a continuous spark. with the spark plug installed and held next to the receiver ov an operating 2.4 system I did not even get a glitch. The plug was out of the engine and completely exposed.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

double post

Rodney

I have also witnessed where a 2.4GHz system was interfered with by an electronic ignition system. While 2.4 is more tolerant of RF interference than the old 72, 75 and 6 meter frequencies, it is not immune.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

If 2.4 receiver is interfered with it will quit and go into failsafe with the band wiped out. Is that what you saw?
What you could have seen was direct interference thru pick up on the servo leads The servo leads are not shielded and the servo pulse is quite suseptable to low frequency interference

Charlie P.

But the original poster stated that he wired the ignition and the receiver to the same battery. It's not a question of induction. It's direct pulses being fired throughout the circuit via mechanical connectivity. Ain't no coax gonna shield that.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

If you reread the initial post I think post #9 nailed it.
BTW coax is not a shield, its a transmission line.

raptureboy

O.k this horse has been beat to death before. OP what if any were the results of your investigation/troubleshooting? My money is on a incorrectly connected wire.

aframe2

My Feedback: (5)

Charlie P, I'm going to try your advice next. I moved the opto kill switch away from the receiver and I'm still getting interference. Tomorrow I will introduce a
second battery to the system. Aframe2

hawkerone

My Feedback: (11)

Consensus is that you need to be on a two battery arrangement. One for aircraft systems (receiver & servos) and one for ignition. Only common line for the two systems should be the Optical Cut-off switch to the receiver. I whole heartedly agree with this and have used this arrangement for years without the first hiccup. I use a 6v NiMH for the system battery and a 4.8v NiMH for the ignition.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Did you perform any of the troubleshooting procedures from post #4 above ?

Larry882

I had the same problem years ago with my Sig 1/4 Scale cub. It was the Genuine JR high dollar Y cord going to the Ailerons. They put a choke or something in there that goes bad. I was lucky because I caught it on the ground. I made a new one that doesn't have any extra parts and the problem went away. Another club member had the same problem with a 1/3 Scale cub but it happened in the air. He was not so lucky.

sensei

Your first post stated you had a problem with aileron input from your transmitter killing the engine, now you state you are still getting interference, so which one is it? The problem you were/are having is not an interference problem at all if you input the aileron stick and kill the engine, it is most likely a programming/mixing issue, interference usually causes one or more servos to jump around, intermittently go hard over and so on, I saw a servo extension go bad that caused a very twichy aileron in 2walla's airplane maybe about 15 years ago or so, but I have never witnessed or heard of flight control input killing the engine unless there was an improper mix turned on, what you have explained sounds more like you have somehow slaved the kill with aileron input from the transmitter. If you really wish to troubleshoot this problem, start by unplugging the opti kill and see if the aileron input kills the engine, if not, isolate and correct the mix problem.

Bob

aframe2

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks, Sensei, will try that also. Aframe2

aframe2

My Feedback: (5)

I will check back in in a few days to let you know how the troubleshooting is going. I had a minor setback today. I was getting ready to
put in the second battery and I dropped the plane from about 3 feet high and broke the horizontal stab. I now have some repair work
to do before preceding with the trouble shooting. I do appreciate all of your help. It is invaluable. Thanks, Aframe2

CafeenMan

Horizontal stabilizers are over-rated.

aframe2

My Feedback: (5)

Well guys, I have repaired my tail on the Pitts, good as new, maybe better. While the plane was down I changed
about 4 things. I replaced and moved the rcxel kill switch. I bought the one on V View website for 19.95. I was using
the one that cost 34.95 with bed for a 6v battery,(may have been my problem). I installed a battery for the ignition, 4.8v.
So now I am running a separate battery for ignition and receiver. I changed a single switch I was using for a dual switch.
I put everything back together and fired it up a few hours ago and to my surprise it ran like a dream. No glitching from
any source. I can now deflect the ailerons and no interference to the engine. I just can't say what the problem was before
because I did all of those changes at the same time. I want to thank you guys for the constructive criticism you gave, it
guided me in the right direction. Thanks again, Aframe2

lopflyers

My Feedback: (12)

Another happy ending for RC Universe

aframe2

My Feedback: (5)

Well, sorry to say I'm back with half of the same problem. I took my plane to the
flying field today to run it up and down the runway to make sure I was ready for
the maiden. Everything was running and operating just as it is suppose to operate.
I took the plane back to the pits to refuel, thought it was out of gas after all of the
taxiing. I started the plane up and the gremlin that caused all of that engine cutout
was back, only this time only when I deflect the aileron control to the right. When
the aileron control is deflected to the left all is well. I'm glad this happened on the
ground. When I have the engine running at full throttle and deflect the aileron to the
right the engine sputters and spurts but continues to run. If I have it at half throttle
or less the engine will just quit. Don't know if this is a noise problem or what. I bought
a JR Matchbox and have decided to run all of my aileron servos through it. I will let
you know the outcome once this is done. Aframe2

Mcast27

Aframe. I am having the exact same problem with my dle 35. I have a metal throttle linkage that I'm going to change and I just ordered a dcup from fromeco.org it's a capacitor but better than the other ones on the forum. I haven't switched to two batteries yet but I might have to also. I talked with Tim at valleyview rc in wa, since I'm from boise. He had the same problem and led me to fromeco. They are dle distributors and he is their repairman/owner. I hope it works, I'll give you an update when I get it.

aframe2

My Feedback: (5)

Mcast27, since my last post I have added another battery, moved my ignition switch as far away from
the receiver switch that I can manage to get it. I moved the kill switch away from the receiver and
have moved the throttle receiver away from the ignition module and changed the throttle linkage
to a non conductive pushrod. I'm also going to test the aileron servo to make sure that is not the problem.
I had to send my transmitter in for repair so I haven't been able to test the changes. When I get the
transmitter back I will let you know the results. Aframe2