ekitik

My Feedback: (18)

Use the premixed fuel from Stihl or moto found at homedepot. The premixed fuel is available in two ratios plus has no ethanol like gas at the pump.

VincentJ

Ah the debate on weather or not to use synthetic oil before the engine is broken in...Being in the automotive profession, I do have a bit of experience. There are many automobiles out there using synthetic oil as a factory fill including the Chevrolet Corvette to name one. They have no problem what so ever breaking in using synthetic oil right from the start. Reducing internal friction is and will always be a good thing... JMO. Using a good name brand oil, and keeping the ratio the same as mentioned before is always a good idea.

jetmech05

Old scale guy.... Got a lake near by... Boats use ethanol free

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Try this, http://pure-gas.org It shows your local gas stations that have alcohol free gas. REBEL gas here in my local was said to be alcohol free regular so I bought a gallon and tested it, turned out to be 5%. Close enough to pure compared to most the stations in this area. I still have my old tester from when I worked in small engine repair, easy to make your own too or for next to nothing you can buy a tester.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

In my particular case it was both cylinders and pistons/rings. That is when I switched to Penzoil air cooled at 50:1. The Penzoil has relabeled and no longer states air cooled. I tried Lucus semi synthetic but am running Sthil HP Ultra at the moment.

the Lawn premix stuff would be a good option for the smaller airplanes but mine carries 1/2 gallon. That would end up being 12.00 per flight..... NOT. Run pump gas, enough oil and keep a rebuild kit on hand, life will be good.

fredmcl2

OMG, another oil discussion. The guy's question was does the measurement have to be exact? The answer is get as close as you can to the manufacturer's recommendation, which is 30:1 or 4.26 oz of oil per gallon. The manual does not recommend a specific oil. The engine probably won't notice if it's 4.1 or 4.4 oz. In fact, my multiple DLEs run great on almost any oil at any sane ratio.

jester_s1

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks jetmech05 and Gray Beard. Looks like there is a station about 20 miles away,,, not bad at all.

mustangman177

Good discussion on types-amounts and break in oil. Also thanks for the stations that list the ethanol free gas.

Just bought and breaking in a DLE 35 RA myself. In the manual it says "to use Lawn Boy All Season Ashless for the break in (Up to 6 gallons)." Using Klothz RC Modeler Gas Burner Synthetic Techniplate after this at 30:1 mixture.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...mberID%3D16901

How about break in props ? Always a good idea to go down 1 pitch size for break in ? I am using a Dynathrust 18 X 8 for break in. May go to 18 X 10 after this Hardly ever go to full throttle, usually at idle to 1/2 throttle for break in. Manual says can go up to 20 X 10.


In my 2- stroke glow engines, I always added 2 oz. Klotz Beano oil to each gallon and NEVER had any further problems with bearings or seizing up. Did put a nice red slime on the side of the fuse though ! so you know the oil was going through the engine !!!

TheRickster

My Feedback: (12)

Here is an interesting read....

Click here: http://www.bridgestonemotorcycle.com/documents/oilpremix6.pdf

LesUyeda

"speedracerntrixie

acerc

Not gonna happen, some people are just to stuck in their view to see elsewise be it fact or fiction.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Quite easily Jester. When there is not enough oil in your mix two things happen. First is heat. Now because my fuel/air mixture was set to compensate the damage was not heat related. On to the second issue. When there is not enough oil in the fuel the oil film that protects your internals is reduced. We all know that when your engine is in motion it is this lubrication film that is providing a barrier between parts. Under high load ( spinning 32x10 prop at 6k during long verticals ) without enough film coating the rings made bare contact onto the cylinders. The cylinders were gouged and the ring grooves in the pistons were damaged. We had a group of about 8 or 9 guys flying IMAC back in '05 and we all thought the 100:1 was the greatest thing. We all ended up abandoning it due to issues of some sort or another mine being the worse.

One other thing to consider is the the Walbro carbs. They are calibrated to run on fuel that has the slightly higher viscosity of more oil and you get slightly better response and linearity with the higher oil concentration.


I personally don't think this has turned into another oil war. Yes I see where guys have stated what brand they use and their success using that brand. That just backs up the opinion that the quantity of the oil used is more important then the actual brand.

sdcranford

My Feedback: (4)

Royal Purple 40:1 on a DLE 111, 35RA, and a couple 30s. Ethanol free 93 octane fuel (maybe unnecessary but when it's only a couple dimes higher than 91 I figure why not, it's still a lot cheaper than glow fuel).

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I would be running Ethanol free if I could find it. Being in Cali is a PITA at times. I just revived a DA 150 that had been sitting for 8 years. I have a rebuild kit on order but I tried soaking the soft parts in gas overnite. The engine is running great except it's leaking fuel at idle. I will have to go in and see where the metering needle fork is adjusted and maybe adjust the pop off pressure. I know I should wait for the rebuild kit but I have the last contest of the year coming up and need the practice.

acerc

And for those that don't know it, and there appears to be many, the four stroke lawn type receives it's oil lubrication via the crank case. Oil in the crankcase is slung up into and on the cylinder walls. And yes, there are those that don't have crankcase oil and for those the rings are designed to produce blow by which lubricates the rings and walls. No matter how everything gets it's oil, what is the point in diluting the oil until there is none. That's like saying your vehicle, which holds say 5 quarts, can function on 2-1/2 quarts just by going to a synthetic oil, pure jibberish!

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Or say that your car was designed to run 30 weight and you insist on running 5 weight.

acerc

Same outcome....

acerc

Same outcome....

Captain Terrific

My Feedback: (2)

I follow the manufacture's instructions. 32:1. I use Stilh HP Ultra. 4oz to a gallon. Mix it thinner and that dead stick will be the last one.

Dave

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

I an to use ultra st hil oil.i believe there is a Web site listing state by state ethanol free gas stationifound 2 of them in my area.find stations selling racing gass

jester_s1

I appreciate the explanation, speedracerntrixie. I didn't know that a normal 4 stroke engine gets cylinder lubrication from oil splashing up from the bottom as acerc explained. I just thought that the gasoline itself was the lubrication for them. I had never heard that about Walbro carbs either, but it makes sense. Do you have a source for that, because I really would like to read up on it. Either way, I guess I should mix my next batch of Amsoil at 50:1 then. It's not like it's going to hurt anything.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Jester, not really anything published on the Walbro carbs working better with the higher oil content. The reason for that is that us silly airplane guys are the only people trying to run less oil. All the lawn equipment, chainsaws and such are being run on at least 50:1. The way I stumbled onto it is that when I went away from the Saber 100:1 my engine seemed to throttle better. I happen to mention that to a family member that has been racing carts for over 20 years and he confirmed that his carts had a better throttle response with higher oil content. He said he gets the most power and overall better running engine with fuel mixed at 28:1.

I have seen some small industrial 4 stroke engines with little fingers on the bottom of the connecting rod to agitate the oil. Suzuki also introduced a system that squirted oil into the bottom of the pistons on their air cooled GSXR. I'm sure there are many different designs to get oil where it needs to be. On most older V8 engines oil for the valve rockers traveled from the hydrolic lifters through the pushrods and onto the rocker arms. All auto engines have windige trays that prevents oil from splashing about in the oil pan but has provisions for oil vapors to travel through the engine as well as oil passages that the pump sends oil through.

if you want to stick with Amsoil, try mixing it at 75:1. I have read a few places that if you run at 50:1 you will get carbon build up. It is designed to run at the leaner mixes, I think they just went a bit too far going with 100:1.

jester_s1

I can't say I'm exactly committed to Amsoil. I bought it because I wanted to buy good oil that would help the engine stay clean and make it last, and Amsoil seemed to have the reputation for that. But my commitment to using it doesn't necessarily go beyond the rest of the bottle that I have now. If you have a better suggestion from trying a few different things, I'm all ears. For now, I'll do the 75:1 mix until I run out.

tpasztor

My Feedback: (30)

For the last 2 years I have been going to the airport and purchasing the 100 Octane Low Lead (100LL) and running Amsoil Dominator racing 2 stroke oil at 50:1 With zero problems and the added benefit this gas wont attack your Tygon fuel tubing. This gas has no alcohol with added fuel stabilizers that will keep the carburetor clean. Great mix for storing your lawn equipment for the winter.
Since we are on oil and gas mix. I have been putting Viton tubing inside the gas tank with great success. Below is the link for the tubing.

http://www.shop.redaerorc.com/Vitube...ng-VT-1000.htm

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