oil ratio change?
09-11-2015, 11:26 AM
#1
Thread Starter
oil ratio change?
On my G26 and G38 I have about 2 gals of gas on each, Im still using a 40to1 breakin ratio. My question is ,,,is it okay to stay with it or would it be advisable to change to another ratio. These are my first gas engines,,I just want to be sure of the oil differences if there is any, Both engines work flawlessly.
Thx in advance----TAZZZZ
Thx in advance----TAZZZZ
09-11-2015, 01:18 PM
#4
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It's a personal thing. I had always used Lawn Boy then changed to Klotz blend. I liked the Klotz, others don't. Here in my area almost everyone went to the Red Line Two Stroke Synthetic motorcycle oil. Now they have gone to something else. The red line was only sold through one local shop. At this point I don't really have an opinion I would offer. I would have to go out and look but I think my last batch of oil was lawn boy ashless again? I did have a problem with the mix for full synthetic I kept seeing. There was just something about the 100:1 mix I saw engines calling for. My Brisons called for it but I went with 40:1 and Klotz blended oil. I had opened up my 2.4 just last season and it looked like new si I guess I did something right. You know we have a gas engine forum.
09-11-2015, 05:24 PM
#8
I run 40:1 Red Line in everything from 20cc to 120cc and all my lawn equipment.
If you can't get it local you can order it from Quickie Parts
www.quickieparts.com
If you can't get it local you can order it from Quickie Parts
www.quickieparts.com
09-11-2015, 06:39 PM
#9
Moderator
You can't go wrong with any of the quality synthetic oils. For that matter, your engine will last for decades using a quality natural oil at the right mixture. The synthetics do keep the engine cleaner in general. I couldn't tell you if it's because you use less of it or because the synthetics don't burn and turn to black goo, but they do work. Redline, Amsoil, Stihl Ultra, and several others all will do a great job of keeping your bearings healthy and giving your piston rings the lubrication and cooling they need. I have heard an anecdote against using Amsoil at 100:1 before so I don't, but I do use it and mix it at 75:1.
09-12-2015, 05:38 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Huh. ....interesting. how do you get sabre 100/1 down to a 40/1 mixture. .how much of that oil do I add to 1gallon of gas. Just asking because I just so happen to have a quart of the sabre.
09-12-2015, 09:38 AM
#13
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09-12-2015, 04:04 PM
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I run 40:1 Red Line in everything from 20cc to 120cc and all my lawn equipment.
If you can't get it local you can order it from Quickie Parts
www.quickieparts.com
If you can't get it local you can order it from Quickie Parts
www.quickieparts.com
09-13-2015, 04:19 AM
#16
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There is no reason to run 100:1. Why run a leaner oil mix when more is always better. Have you ever heard someone say that I ruined my engine with too much oil?
I too run Red Line at 40:1. I break in using that same mixture as well. It takes longer to break in but doesn't hurt a thing.
I too run Red Line at 40:1. I break in using that same mixture as well. It takes longer to break in but doesn't hurt a thing.
09-13-2015, 11:02 AM
#17
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There is no reason to run 100:1. Why run a leaner oil mix when more is always better. Have you ever heard someone say that I ruined my engine with too much oil?
I too run Red Line at 40:1. I break in using that same mixture as well. It takes longer to break in but doesn't hurt a thing.
I too run Red Line at 40:1. I break in using that same mixture as well. It takes longer to break in but doesn't hurt a thing.
09-13-2015, 12:34 PM
#18
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Gents,
I'm looking at switching over to gas from glow in a model or two to lower fuel costs. Does anyone have any comment on how the 10% ethanol in pump gas is affecting their engines / fuel systems / gasketing / gum buildup?
TIA, Aesir
I'm looking at switching over to gas from glow in a model or two to lower fuel costs. Does anyone have any comment on how the 10% ethanol in pump gas is affecting their engines / fuel systems / gasketing / gum buildup?
TIA, Aesir
09-13-2015, 12:46 PM
#19
Well, yes its possible. The newer the motor, the better the rubber compounds, and the less chance of issues.
That and flying a lot and keeping the gas moving through minimizes issues.
But i have tow planes that sit months at a time with fuel in tank and motor that fire right up when it comes time to do some glider towing
That and flying a lot and keeping the gas moving through minimizes issues.
But i have tow planes that sit months at a time with fuel in tank and motor that fire right up when it comes time to do some glider towing
09-13-2015, 12:59 PM
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There is no reason to run 100:1. Why run a leaner oil mix when more is always better. Have you ever heard someone say that I ruined my engine with too much oil?
I too run Red Line at 40:1. I break in using that same mixture as well. It takes longer to break in but doesn't hurt a thing.
I too run Red Line at 40:1. I break in using that same mixture as well. It takes longer to break in but doesn't hurt a thing.
09-13-2015, 02:41 PM
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I was concerned about this as well, so several years ago I visited the local Stihl dealer and ask to talk to their 2 cycle engine expert, They sell Stihl and service all brands. These are his words. Several years ago, ( he said more than 10) all carb manufactures switched to compounds for their diaphrams and rubber parts that are resistant to the alocohol in the fuel. He said the worst problem he sees, is allowing the gas/oil mixture to dry inside the carb. This blocks the orifices. He also said he never attempts to clean them, just installs a new one. That's cheaper than paying for his labor. I had an engine with me and showed it to him. He told me to store the engine with fuel in the carb, and to seal it as best as possible to keep it from evaporating.
09-13-2015, 07:05 PM
#23
Moderator
You won't "ruin" an engine with too much oil, but you will cause carbon build up, excess smoke, crud on your airplane, and possibly hurt your power by using more than you need. There's no reason to use more than you need, and how much you need has been very well established by countless hours of hard use on 2 stroke engines over the decades.
I've heard multiple anecdotes about running Amsoil at 100:1 ruining engines, so I run it at 75:1. A buddy at the flying club who's a former racer and has been a gear head all his life said that when Amsoil came out his first impression was that it smelled and looked just like Redline. He said Redline even went after Amsoil to release their formula so they could see if a patent infringement had occurred. In the ensuring battle, Amsoil did reveal that their oil started out quite similar to Redline but had some extra additives that they weren't keen on revealing to prevent thermal breakdown which allows the 100:1 mix ratio. Gearheads have been debating ever since if Amsoil's additives actually do any good, whether there is a shelf life to the additives, and how much heat they can actually handle before they vaporize and leave you with a too lean mixture of basically Redline oil. What is settled is that the actual lubricants in both oils are quite similar if not exactly the same, and both lubricate extremely well and don't cook off and turn to carbon under normal operation. That's assuming, of course, that you have enough of either one in your engine. Having had to take apart and clean a weedeater engine that was severely carboned from using cheap gas station 2 stroke oil a few years ago, I'm a huge fan of the quality synthetics and running them at the mix ratios that the manufacturers recommend.
I've heard multiple anecdotes about running Amsoil at 100:1 ruining engines, so I run it at 75:1. A buddy at the flying club who's a former racer and has been a gear head all his life said that when Amsoil came out his first impression was that it smelled and looked just like Redline. He said Redline even went after Amsoil to release their formula so they could see if a patent infringement had occurred. In the ensuring battle, Amsoil did reveal that their oil started out quite similar to Redline but had some extra additives that they weren't keen on revealing to prevent thermal breakdown which allows the 100:1 mix ratio. Gearheads have been debating ever since if Amsoil's additives actually do any good, whether there is a shelf life to the additives, and how much heat they can actually handle before they vaporize and leave you with a too lean mixture of basically Redline oil. What is settled is that the actual lubricants in both oils are quite similar if not exactly the same, and both lubricate extremely well and don't cook off and turn to carbon under normal operation. That's assuming, of course, that you have enough of either one in your engine. Having had to take apart and clean a weedeater engine that was severely carboned from using cheap gas station 2 stroke oil a few years ago, I'm a huge fan of the quality synthetics and running them at the mix ratios that the manufacturers recommend.
09-13-2015, 07:58 PM
#24
Very well stated.
Modern synthetic oils are of the highest quality and perform as stated. Using too much oil is almost as bad as too little, The engineers that design these lubricants know what they are doing, and do it well. A quality synthetic at 60:1 is all the lubrication you need, without the carbon buildup and fouled plugs.
Modern synthetic oils are of the highest quality and perform as stated. Using too much oil is almost as bad as too little, The engineers that design these lubricants know what they are doing, and do it well. A quality synthetic at 60:1 is all the lubrication you need, without the carbon buildup and fouled plugs.
09-14-2015, 05:10 AM
#25
