RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

I went to NiMH in my flight packs as the NiCd's lasted less than a year and the NiMH last three, and have higher capacity. Any experience using sub-C NiMH in a glow ignitor? Can they provide the higher current? For all who say to go with LiPo's, I don't like to have wires flopping around that could get caught in the prop.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Current or Voltage is the same 1.2 volts,, Capacity is higher, I think you can get up to 4500 mAh cells

I've used NimH in the past, they work just fine,,,, currently I have several NiCd cells taken from old 18 volt cordless drill packs, I use those in my glow driver, the packs usually go bad because one or two cells go bad,, the other 13 cells are still good

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

Good point about the battery pack. Our DustBuster battery is shot and new packs cost more than the Li versions! I'll dig through the pack and see if there are cells I can use. Still using a worn motorcycle battery in my starter. Still works great for that after 3 years.

Although the voltage is the same, the maximum current can be different. For example, both a sub-C and AA battery are the same 1.2 V, the sub-C can provide much more current. Up to a few years ago, the same size NiCd could provide higher current than NiMH.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

OK, I see what you're sayin,, Yes, Sub C cell have a higher discharge rate capability vs. AA cells,, Don't think that would matter for a Glow driver though

You could be right,, been so long since I used sub C cells in rc cars/trucks,, but the hobby battery industry went to NiMh for longer run times so NiCd just went away for the most part.

Yes, The Ryobi tool system went to Lithium too, I had to buy after market packs to replace them,, The replacement packs are 3000 mah, where the oem ones were only 1500s,, so that tells me the replacement are probably NiMh

If ya need a few cells LMK, I'll ship you a few,, I got lots of soso packs laying around

good luck

ETpilot

I've been messing with an engine the past 2 days. Saw this thread and thought it was a good time to do this test. I've been thinking of testing this but never found the time.

I use a cheap C cell glow igniter. I have a regular C cell in it and have been using that for a long while. Battery voltage started at 1.54V and today it read 1.46V. I also had purchased a couple of Harbor Freight rechargeable C cell NIMH 1.2V 2500 mah batteries. These I had charged a long time ago but never used them. So today I tested a plug with each battery. Surprisingly, the NIMH made the plug glow twice as bright. It was a super bright super hot glow. So I changed to the rechargeable NIHM battery. Just my experience.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

I bought a single 4000mah sub-C cell NiMh for my glow driver and it works for days... albeit my engines start immediately as well... which is probably due to the igniter battery being in great condition. I got that cell over 4 yrs ago and it still works like new.... It's literally one less thing I have to deal with now...I actually charge it at 4 amps, with the cell being 4000mah, 4 amps is a 10c rate if I'm not mistaken, and it takes about 45 min to an hour and stays charged forever it seems... several weeks I do know. I think I paid about $5 for that cell... well worth it in my mind... but hey.. there's many ways to get power to the plug. I remember soldering a 4-pack of D-cell batteries in parallel (well before nicads were mainstrem), and having that last for months.. and with the D-cells being 1.5volts that really lit up a glow-plug... but you don't want to go over 1.5v...(..some/most plugs used to be rated for 2volts even)...these days though, they start fine with the 1.2v cells.. that's all you need.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

well the word-up on NiCd's is, that they stopped making NiCd's back in 2012, so your NiCd's are actually older than you believe them to be, I have heard that the NiCd's manufacturing was stopped by 3 or 4 different people ,,

that's my story, because someone else told it to me

Jim

jester_s1

Nothing is more durable than NiCd. Yes, they are still being made because it's the only rechargeable chemistry that is truly safe with a wall wart "dumb" charger without any kind of overcharge protection.

Skyhawk940

For many years I used an Alkaline D cell and it would last all season! Two in parallel would last up to three seasons and very cheep too.

Skyhawk940

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

that may be true, I don't know for sure, but more than one on RCU has posted that Sanyo sold out their stock and rights of their NiCads, than then manufacturing just stop, I cant remember what post or who bought them out, but I have to say I found it funny Sanyo would sell out such a money maker

Jim

jester_s1

A quick Google of the topic turned up info that Panasonic and Sanyo were merging their brands on batteries. So maybe they just aren't labeled as Sanyos anymore.

Sanyo Nickel Cadmium NICD Metal Hydride NIMH Lithium Rechargeable Batteries Battery Packs

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, I have CadNica cells that are labeled Panasonic. The CadNica brand used to be made by Sanyo. I have some with a date code of 2016.

NiCd are robust, long lasting cells. If the OP is only getting a year out of them then something is wrong. One of my starters came with a 250 mA wall wart charger. It was cooking my starter battery. I changed to a power supply set to 70 mA. Problem solved, now my starters last many years.

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

Bingo. Checked the charger I was using and found it was 240 mA. Dug through my wall wart box and found a 70 ma one. Will try that with the new battery. Usually only leave it on overnight. Engines take 4 - 5 flips for first start of the day, then just a flip of the spinner is needed for subsequent flights.