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1970 Champion EK transmitter

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Old 11-04-2017, 02:11 PM
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Ivanrich
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Default 1970 Champion EK transmitter

Can anyone advise on how to charge this transmitter. It has two prongs (vertical) coming out of the bottom and a black female three (3) hole receptacle right next to it.This is a red 1970 EK Champion logictrol and pro-series system transmitter from EK products inc. It transmits on 72.08. It still after 48 years of no use stored in the basement has enough charge to slightly move the needle when switched on. Any advise would be great. Thanks, Richard
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:58 AM
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The old frequencies which include 72.08 are no longer legal to use for RC. The transmitter is wide band so would interfere with someone still using one of the still legal 72 frequencies. These old frequencies were assigned to commercial users so you could be interfered with too.

I think there here is a company or two left that can convert to a legal frequency and narrow band They could probably change the batteries too. Hopefully you are not try to charge 50 year old batteries but SR batteries does still configure NiCads for old radios

Good luck. This was an era of really nicely made radios
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Old 11-05-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Ivanrich View Post
Can anyone advise on how to charge this transmitter. It has two prongs (vertical) coming out of the bottom and a black female three (3) hole receptacle right next to it.This is a red 1970 EK Champion logictrol and pro-series system transmitter from EK products inc. It transmits on 72.08. It still after 48 years of no use stored in the basement has enough charge to slightly move the needle when switched on. Any advise would be great. Thanks, Richard
First, take out the batteries and check very carefully for corrosion on the wires, switch, and printed circuit board as old batteries leak. You may find the board damaged beyond repair (the batteries, wires and switch are simple to replace/repair but not the board). The board can be damaged as it is the battery negative wire that propagates the corrosion and this is often not switched off by the switch.

If it's ok then to make it usable it is best to replace the RF section with a modern 2.4 GHz FHSS module. This is simple to do - it is only the plus and minus power leads and the encoder PPM output to connect and the PPM output is easy to find. The new antenna should fit in the old hole and all you have to do then is to make a tiny hole or holes for access to the 'bind' and 'range check' buttons. Replace the batteries with Eneloop NiMh ones.

Discard the receiver, but the servos should be ok if they are 'three wire' ones. Though you will have to change the plugs to match the new 2.4 receivers you buy.

It's worth checking out (maybe not converting yourself) as the old US made radios, particularly Logictrol, Kraft, and Pro Line, can fetch high prices if you don't want to use it..

Last edited by Mark Powell; 11-05-2017 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 11-05-2017, 12:41 PM
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I may be wrong but I think all the servos back then were 4 wire. Someone will probably know the reason. Also, back then, a soldering iron was required to reverse servos. I have some old Kraft and Orbit servos of the same era. Some have little marks molded into the plastic to indicate reverse direction
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Old 11-05-2017, 04:13 PM
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I had a 7 channel EK Championship radio and flew it for years...not one complaint!
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:01 PM
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You have already received a flood of information, but I missed where someone answered your question as to how to charge the batteries.
Allow me to repeat the information:
(1) Both transmitter and receiver batteries are charged simultaneously. A 12 volt charger is required.
(2) You will have trace the wiring visually, or best, with a volt or ohm meter. One side of the 2-pin plug goes to the battery negative - the charger negative goes to that pin,
the other pin of the 2-pin plug goes to a resistor and LED connected in series. Charger positive goes to that pin.
(3) The transmitter battery positive is connected to one of the 3-pin connectors. The 3-pin mating plug's wire goes to the receiver battery negative.
(4) The resistor/LED pair are connected to another connector on the 3-pin plug.
(5) The 3-pingmatinv plug's wire goes to the receiver battery positive.
(6) Addition wires are attached to the transmitter battery - negative to ground, positive to the switch and then the meter which in this case reads battery voltage. Some meters read output, this one doesn't.
You may chose to disregard this information in favor of all the expert advice previously received - and probably more to come. The source of this is from a schematic diagram prepared by Mrs Elliott and Krause of EK Products dated 4-27-76. Luck!
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:25 AM
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This thread has bought back happy memories. I had two sets of EK gear back in the early 70s. Utterly reliable.

But it is not safe to use today. It has some collectible value so put it up for sale. You might get a swap for up so date WORKING gear.
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:07 AM
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Thank you for your replies. First time user of a thread of any kind and just getting my feet wet. It took me awhile just to find your replies. Again thank you. Hope to use your suggestions as you can see by my post that RC airplanes amount to a wish to get into a hobby that I had winter of 1969. I built a trainer airplane 5ft wing span with removable wing tips when I was ready to fly faster. I went to an old runway in Kent Washington (WWII) where a Boeing RC Club at the time flew their airplanes. One of the members welcomed me to the site and offered to fly my airplane for the first time. He flew it like he had flown it a hundred times. He then asked if I wanted to take over and give it a try. I did with him standing right next to me. It was fairly easy to take off and maintain directional control as long as it was going away from me. At that moment he had to leave me for some reason! I then made a turn to come back and that is when panic set in. Everything was opposite and to make a long story short I ended up crashing it in a corn field. It went in softly and only minor damage. The nice guy who was helping then returned and helped me locate the airplane. He wrote "Test Flown", the date on the Champion EK transmitter original box 10/31/1970 and signed his initials GWD. I returned home repaired the airplane and placed it (with the transmitter back in the original box) in the basement where it has been for 47 plus years. Now retired and unable to play golf anymore I retrieved the airplane and transmitter, registered with the AMA, located a local RC Club and attempting to get back into the sport. Like many out there Nostalgia plays a big part of this and I would like to keep everything as it was back in the 70's if possible. Your suggestions again are greatly appreciated. Oh, also, when switching the transmitter on it Still moves the needle slightly. I had a guy at a local RC hobby shop change out the airplanes batteries and tested the servos by turning on the airplanes switch. All three servos bumped! Richard (ivanrich)

Last edited by Ivanrich; 11-06-2017 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 11-06-2017, 01:14 PM
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Just to repeat although that Logitrol transmitter will most likely still work it would be technically illegal to use it or even turn it on. Any RC club would take a dim view of you trying to use it at a flying site. The frequency allocation has changed and bandwidth is much narrower.

However RC gear is now incredibly cheap compared to 1970 and has a myriad of features. In fact one good reason to join a club or at least seek expert help is that you need someone to help you program the dang thing.

A base 6 channel Turnigy TX RX and 4 servos will come in under $90

The Turnigy TGY-i6 is a great entry level 6-channel telemetry 2.4GHz computer transmitter that uses solid and reliable Automatic Frequency Hopping Digital System (AFHDS) spread spectrum technology. The Turnigy TGY-i6 has both a nice quality look and feel, while the programming is simple to use. The TGY-i6 also has an impressive list of features and includes a TGY-iA6 6-channel receiver. Suitable for both model Heli and Airplane, the Turnigy TGY-i6 is a superb budget computer radio for both new pilots and experienced pilots alike!

The ultra slim case design ergonomically fits your hands leading to less hand fatigue especially during long flights. Digital trims, backlit LCD screen, and simple programming give the TGY-i6 a modern feel with all the features you want. With a low profile antenna, the TGY-i6 is easy to store and no worries about breaking it. Adjustable length sticks, and a loop for attaching a neck strap round out the list of comfort features this radio offers. For changing flight modes or multiple flap position options, the TGY-i6 has a 3-position switch, as well as two adjustable knobs.

Expand the capabilities of your models or just know what is going on with the optional telemetry receivers and variety of sensors. Normally you would have to spend hundreds of dollars to get a transmitter with this capability. Not so with the availability of the TGY-i6.

For the price, the features the TGY-i6 offers make this one of the best radios available dollar for dollar.

Features:
Entry level 6 channel 2.4gHz radio with telemetry capability
Dual Rate/Trims/Gear/Flap/Gyro Gain Adjust/Flight Mode/Throttle Hold/Hover Pitch Switches
Easy to use Programming & Navigation Buttons
Supports Heli/Standard Wing/Elevon/V-Tail
20 Model Memory
8 Character Model Name
Trainer and charging ports
Backlit LCD Screen displays real time transmitter and receiver voltage
4 Stick Mode Selectable
Optional telemetry receivers and sensors available separately

Basic Programming Functions:
Dual Rates
Sub Trim
Travel Adjust
Channel Reverse
Swash Mix
Gyro Sensitivity
Throttle Curve
Monitor
Pitch Curve
Throttle Hold
Model Name
Timer
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Old 11-16-2017, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by j.duncker View Post
Just to repeat although that Logitrol transmitter will most likely still work it would be technically illegal to use it or even turn it on. Any RC club would take a dim view of you trying to use it at a flying site. The frequency allocation has changed and bandwidth is much narrower.

However RC gear is now incredibly cheap compared to 1970 and has a myriad of features. In fact one good reason to join a club or at least seek expert help is that you need someone to help you program the dang thing.

A base 6 channel Turnigy TX RX and 4 servos will come in under $90
All valid, but it's the 'nostalgia value' that makes us like using old r/c systems, particularly the US made ones as they always led the field.

And you don't need the "myriad of features" of the modern systems, you just adjust everything 'mechanically' on each plane, as we used to do.

I frequently use an old Pro Line. converted to 2.4. It's real nice to just switch it on and have it work for any of my planes, not having to do this 'model selection' stuff. But it does means you have to do these 'mechanical adjustments' on each plane, and I haven't done them all yet. (When I have, I will of course be able to have just one setup, with no need to select the model, on my modern radios too.)
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