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Recess for Robart Hinge points?

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Recess for Robart Hinge points?

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Old 10-11-2003, 05:14 PM
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SeanT
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Default Recess for Robart Hinge points?

First time for me using Robart Hinge points. I have read the how to section on www.airfieldmodels.com but it doesn't address my issue. How do you recess for the hinges on a large surface such as the wing? Airfield suggests using a rounded file. 2nd, do you always recess the fixed component, i.e. the wing, the stab and the fin? Why not aileron, elevator and rudder?

Using Robart Super hinges 3/16" with ProBond glue in a H9 Taylorcraft ARF. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated, pictures especially!

Thanks,
ST
Old 10-11-2003, 06:58 PM
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Flypaper 2
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Default RE: Recess for Robart Hinge points?

Sean:
They should be recessed into the aileron, elevator, rudder. I use a Dremel with a carbide cutter and elongated in the vertical direction to allow for the up and down movement.
Old 10-12-2003, 05:02 PM
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Stick Jammer
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Default RE: Recess for Robart Hinge points?

How do you recess for the hinges on a large surface such as the wing? Airfield suggests using a rounded file. 2nd, do you always recess the fixed component, i.e. the wing, the stab and the fin? Why not aileron, elevator and rudder?
Are your surfaces beveled or radius and pocket? Not sure if I understand your question as the pivot of the hinge point needs to be on the hinge line in either case. So for example, on a double beveled aileron you need to slightly enlarge the holes on both the aileron and the wing to clear the knuckle of the hinge point. Also, be sure to use some course sandpaper to roughen up the hinge points before gluing them in.
Old 10-16-2003, 12:24 PM
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SeanT
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Default RE: Recess for Robart Hinge points?

Thanks for the advice! Stick Jammer the moving surfaces are single beveled, the flying surfaces are 90 cut. Is it correct then Flypaper 2, that I only need to bevel the moving surface to clear the knuckle?

I tried a sample, but the sharpened brass tube wobbled too much to make a clean hole. Might have to go buy a 3/16" forstner bit.

Sean
Old 10-16-2003, 04:37 PM
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Flypaper 2
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Default RE: Recess for Robart Hinge points?

Sean:
The idea of insetting is to get the leading edge of the bevel and the fixed surface as close together as possible without touching. The pin should be just in line with the bevel. You can take a 1/4 in. drill and turn it with your fingers to go in about 1/4 in. in the movable surface to inset the hinge. Put some vasaline on the hinge pin area to keep from getting glue in the hinge.
Old 10-16-2003, 05:43 PM
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Stick Jammer
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Default RE: Recess for Robart Hinge points?

I tried a sample, but the sharpened brass tube wobbled too much to make a clean hole. Might have to go buy a 3/16" forstner bit.
Just use a normal 3/16" bit in a cordless drill. Robart makes a drill jig that works well for this.

the moving surfaces are single beveled, the flying surfaces are 90 cut.
You still need to recess the hinge point into both edges so the pin is right on the hinge line.
Old 10-17-2003, 12:11 AM
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Pushrod02
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Default RE: Recess for Robart Hinge points?

SeanT,

Have you been to Robart.com/How to/Hing Points? Pretty good instructions in PDF format for just about every application.
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Old 10-17-2003, 06:28 AM
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Default RE: Recess for Robart Hinge points?

Try a 1/2" countersinking bit.

And if you have already not beveled the leading edge of the surface, drill the holes first, countersink them and THEN bevel the LE. Otherwise, go slow and the countersink bit will do the job.

Much easier
Old 10-18-2003, 09:04 AM
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SeanT
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Default RE: Recess for Robart Hinge points?

Many thanks to each of you! Robart.com answered all my questions.

Happy flying ya'll,

Sean

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