RCtrainee

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Is there a such thing as a glue with the same characteristics of epoxy without the mixing? (Same strength etc) or even more strength?

Chris-_-Memphis

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wood glue?

rajul

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What's the problem with mixing ?

Azcat59

For most of the joints on an airframe, CA will be stronger than the surrounding wood, assuming you do nice tight joints. I do still use slow-dry epoxy for firewalls and landing gear plates, partly so that I have extra time to adjust the fit and get it right.

I have at least 10 or 12 different types of adhesives in my shop, and will use most of them at least once or twice in a year, but 95% of my airframes are put together with CA. If you have ever joined something incorrectly with CA, and then tried to get it back apart, you will soon learn to trust its ability to hold

Clair

FHHuber

Most glues are stronger than the wood when properly used. You have to look for one that isn't.

Epoxy is used for its vibration resistance and gap filling properties. CA is MUCH more brittle than epoxy and does very poorly at filling gaps. So CA is a bad choice for putting in firewalls and for joining the main spar at the dihedral break.

If you can properly clamp the joint, then yellow carpenter's glue is OK for the dihedral joint. The yellow glue is better at gap filig than the CA. Its still not as good for the vibration... so you'd expect the firewall to eventually come out if you used it there.

There really is no substitute for 30 min epoxy for installing the firewall.

coomarlin

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Gorilla Glue. Now that stuff is strong.................

DGrant

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Mr. RCtrainee...I reitterate what FHHuber said, as there really is no substitute for good 30min epoxy, and it's very easy to use. Not to mention all that you can do with it.
Is it a problem mixing it, or did you get a bad batch(I did hear about some bad epoxy going around), is it the odor?

A few things you can do with it though, one is you can add what is called micro-balloons, which is essentially powder that renders epoxy sandable and moldable to a degree. Another would be you can thin it after it's mixed with denatured alcohol, and make a fuel-proofer/protectant barrier that you can simply paint on your firewall or other areas....don't know.....just sharing here...

So.....it really may help if we knew why you were asking...maybe its's something for a totally different application you need......we can help...really we can...

banktoturn

RCtrainee,

There probably isn't any glue available that gives you all the characteristics of epoxy without mixing. I don't know specifically about the vibration resistance of epoxy versus wood glue, but I would have thought that wood glue (aliphatic resin) would be pretty vibration resistant. For almost every joint that I can clamp for the initial drying period, I use wood glue. It is stronger than the wood you are gluing, just as epoxy and CA are, and it is the safest for the environment and your health. If I can't clamp the joint, I use faster epoxy, or, as a last resort, CA. I always use waterproof wood glue, such as TiteBond II. I don't know whether this is fuelproof or not.

Good luck,

banktoturn

CafeenMan

That's what I was going to say. I'm using polyurethane glues in places where I want more strength than carpenter's glue, but epoxy seemed like to much. Before Polyurethane, I used epoxy for the same things, but the polyurethane is one step with no mixing. I would not use it to hold on a firewall though. But the only reason for that is I don't know if it's fuel-proof or not and am not sure how well it will hold up to vibration.

It would probably work fine, but until someone tells me they've done it and it works, I'm not risking a plane to it.

- Paul

RCtrainee

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I have used epoxy for years now and was just wondering whats out there because I have turned a blind eye to all other types of adhesives besides CA and 2 part epoxy. I forgot about the gorilla glue i think i will look into that stuff never used it before.

Thanks to all who responded