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Old 03-29-2018, 01:26 PM
  #26  
bhady
 
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Originally Posted by Andre7
Hello. Do you still have plans for the folding field stand. I have been searching for some. Please advise and if you do what is the price. Thank you Rene Marquis
If you want a cheap and quick to make collapsible stand, pick up a walker at a garage sale for a few bucks, usually under $5.00, add some 1" PVC uprights padded with foam pipe insulation, and a small shelf between the legs, works great. I've been using one for a few years now. Beats getting down on the ground.
Old 03-31-2018, 07:04 AM
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ScaleRCpilot
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bhady...... I did see one of those walker conversions and its a great idea..Thanks for the suggestion!...... SR/CP
Old 03-31-2018, 07:07 AM
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RC Fanatic ....I left you a PM with my email address thanks for taking the time to help a fellow modeler - its guys like you that make RCU great! SR/CP
Old 07-17-2018, 05:07 AM
  #29  
r ward
 
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Originally Posted by da Rock


There are a number of safety table plans floating around. Every one I saw years ago when I made a number of stands for club fields were based on 2x4s. They all were robust to say the least. They really aren't overly stable tables with the majority of their weight being in the top, and having only 3 legs. So..........

If you want to improve an already decent design, change the table top planking to thinner boards. Use 1x4s for the top planking. It's absolutely strong enough, beyond strong enough for it's intended use.

With 1" planking, you'll find they're easier to move around the field. They're less apt to blow over (proven by Mother Nature). They're still strong enough to support half-wit adults who use them for stepladders, something that even 1" planking won't make out of them.
much of that stand can be lightened up by reducing the sizes of the boards used. all the cross bracing can be reduced by half and the rear leg can be reduced in width. also adding a set of wheels to the front legs will make moving it a breeze. just be sure to drill the holes for screws so you don't split the pieces,...especially the piece that the screw's head comes in contact with......that's what usually splits the wood,....not the screw itself. you ca get a pair of wheels at Harbor Freight for just a few bucks.

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