wrongwaywayne

Has anyone tried to use thinned epoxy as a fuel proof clear coat on cowls, canopies and wheel pants? I would like to spray it on. I have some finishing epoxy I thought I would use?

TNRabbit

I believe you'll find you have a cracking problem using epoxy like that. You'd probably be better off with a clear fuel-proof spray paint. What you are proposing works great on the firewall and fuel compartment, though.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

I use epoxy on firewalls, and inside fuses to fuel proof. but not on flexible parts.

Ed Smith

It will not cure crystal clear, it will have a yellow tone. Even the old K&B epoxy clear coat of many years ago had a tint to it. If you want to achieve a true crystal clear, fuelproof clear finish then the two part automotive is the material to use. That is however another discussion.

Ed S

wrongwaywayne

Yes, this was my last ditch attempt to avoid paying way too much for way too much clear coat!!!

greenboot

My Feedback: (1)

I have brushed on polyurathane wood finish which I had left over from a furniture project. It's indestructable.

Tom

âûñøåå îäíî

dont use epoxy, it will add too much weight and will yellow over time

GarbMan

I've been having good luck with the spray Polyurethane. Polyurethane reacts with Air and changes into a totally different coating that resists most solvents. I put it on my flight box and on my planes. The key is making sure it is totally dry. This can take weeks depending on your climate.

bikz

just a question....the epoxy used for coating is the same type of epoxy used to build models is it....might sound stupid but what i want to know is, is it supposed to be mixed and apllied on the firewall for fuelproofing by spreading it on it?
thanks.

newbieT

bikz,

I was at the LHS speaking with someone about fuel proofing, and took his advice which worked nicely. I used 5-minute epoxy (which turned out to be a little too short of time to work with) and mixed in a small amount of denatured alcohol to thin it. I used epoxy brushes to paint onto the engine compartment area, firewall, and gas tank chamber. It slightly darkened the wood, but no matter because the other non-proofed wood will be covered and thus you won't be able to see the true difference. If there is an overriding opinion here, take it lest be 'Newbified' haha

My $0.01 ($0.01 to pay for the newb factor)

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I fuelproofed an engine area yesterday with 50/50 30 minute epoxy and rubbing alcohol. It brushed on without any problems. I have a plane that my instructor built and he did it the same way all the way back to the servo area, but with a thicker application. Yellowing is not an issue as it can't be seen and it works.

Mike Ledbetter

Instead of thinning with alcohol, I put 30 minute epoxy on wood surfaces to be fuel-proofed with the finger of a rubber glove. I rub in the thinnest possible coat.

I have also used polyurethane spray with great results. It does take forever (well, a week) to really dry though.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

A thick coat of 50/50 epoxy and alcohol is probably very fuelproof. My lighter coat dried overnight.

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

5 minute epoxy is not truly fuel proof. Fuel will soften it evenutally.

GarbMan

Some coatings will have a plasticizer to make the coating flexable. This will keep it from cracking from Vibration and flex. Straight epoxy glue may not have plasticizer in it. The coating may crack over time without it.

Dick LaPorte

Gary, saw your comment about using clear coat to protect the painted finish. Wholeheartedly agree. For the past couple of years I've been using a Pactra clear coat, Formula-U (Fuel Proof Polyurethane). It gives a tough high, high gloss protection to over 50% nitro.

Just one thing wrong, I can't get it any more. Do you or anyone out there know where I can get some more Patrica 20127 Clear Varnish in a spray can?

Dick

kdheath

Have a look at:

http://www.klasskote.com/

This paint is getting rave reviews. It is compatable with the old K&B epoxy paints and can go over anything else. Looks expensive, but epoxy paint has such a high solid content that a little goes a long way.

Sport_Pilot

Epoxy weighs no more than any other paint. I would think it would work well if thinned with a slow drying thinnner, this will make the epoxy flexible. I would think a slow drying high gloss lacquer thinner would do the trick. Problem is you would need to test this or you could ruin a plane trying out differant thinners.

Sport_Pilot

And cheaper than K&B! Though more expensive than automotive paints. Some poly paints will soften when fresh fuel gets dumped on it, though it doesnt winkle and peal like non fuel proof paint. When you clean the fuel off it hardens again. I found this out when and adhesive velcro strip pulled the paint off. The surrounding paint was also soft but rehardened again without bubbling or pealing.