MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

In my latest RCU Magazine review (The Great Planes Profile-38) I included some Videos on Basic Covering Techniques. If you're new to covering, give them a look! Just click on the link below to go to the review:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=352

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Mike,

I asked about these videos in another thread before you posted this link. Good ones! Thanks. Very well done.

Flightfreak777

yup ive already seen em! yeesh this is gonna be tough covering my RV-4 for the first time.. but im gonna get that video that was made also about covering.. saw it at tower hobbies

~Matt

blw

My Feedback: (3)

a free video??? (probably a dumb question)

volkan

finally, i can cover my jnr 60!!! cheers mike

Volkan

photoniq

Mike - you are a STAR! Awesome videos. You make it look easy
photoniq

volkan

MORE MORE MORE< TEACH US MORE

i still cant master covering a fuse, but in a V-shape like this:


This is the plane im trying to cover (hit the tail is covered LIKE SH*T, but nothing i can do now

PLEASE MORE VIDEOS!!!!

jagnweiner

My Feedback: (1)

Volkan-

There is something you can do about the tail. Do what I did on my first covering project, rip it off and start over! I'm pretty sure my Piper Cub wasn't supposed to take 5 or 6 rolls of covering, but it was a learning experience and it made me better. It's better to figure out what you're doing while you're still working on the tailfeathers. Make sure you have a good iron set at the right temp, then practice, practice, practice. Good luck.

-Scott

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Get a good heat gun. I covered for years without one, but once I tried one, I'll never cover without one again!

nekked_man_2000

On another topic, that was a good review MinnFlyer. Lots of pictures, flight video, shows plenty of steps....little diddy about the engine, who could ask for more? Very complete. Cheers all around from me.

Austin

Swashbuckler

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Minn,

Would you use the same covering techniques for ultracoat? (I noticed that you were working with Monocoat in the video.)

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Basically yes.

The biggest difference between the two is this:

MonoKote's adhesive is such that once it is ironed down, it doesn't like to be moved. This can be a good or bad thing.

Ultracote's adheasive is condusive to being reheated and removed, then reapplied. This can also be a good or bad thing.

Here's why:

On the one hand, you could say that UC's ability to be reheated and removed as a big plus, but in some circumstances, it can be a drawback, Like when you need to heat shrink an area (with a heat gun) near a seam. The heat can soften the adheasive at the seam, and as the covering shrinks, the seam can pull loose. This is easily solved by laying a folded wet paper towel over the seam to protect it from the heat.

MK, can do this too, but only under much more extreme circumstances (You have to get the seam a lot hotter)

Actually, one of the easiest covering jobs I ever did was last year when I covered a plane with both. The MK held the seams while I shrank the UC.

In general, I find UC easier to work with, and I really like the paper backing (It comes off easier, and you can draw your designs before cutting them out). UC also shrinks and stretches much better, but as you can see in the videos, MK works just fine too, it just takes a bit more practice.

The biggest drawback to MK's adheasive is that once the sticky side touches itself (While heated) it will NOT let go. This is MK's biggest drawback. It's a bit complicated to explain, but stay with me...

No matter how good you are at applying covering, you can get warps and ripples (Covering tends to expand a little before it shrinks)

With MK, if one of these wrinkles appears in an area that has been sealed to the wood, it can hold strongly enough to the wood to keep it from shrinking. The result is that as the MK is attached to the wood closer and closer to the center of the ripple (Red arrows) the covering can adhear to itself ("C"). Then, it's perminent.

With UC, even though it has been sealed to the wood, heating the area will let the covering at "A" and "B" pull away from the ripple and smooth it out. Even if it touches itself, because it has the ability to "let go" and because it shrinks more than MK, you can heat the area up and it will still smooth out.

Swashbuckler

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for your insight. After I finish building my workbench, I'm going to start on my first kit and I plan on using UC. I figure I need all the help I can get.

jucava

Great job MinnFlier, you always helping all of us, I hope you realize how many people are you reaching thus helping, thank you again.

da_man

My Feedback: (30)

Hey Minn Flyer,

The covering videos are great and am glad I downloaded them. I know you have a GP skybolt and I think you covered it like on the box. If you did I would like to get that same design and am wondering a couple things. What is the best way to cover the tail section. Since the elevator and rudder are glued in it looks tough. Also how do you accuratly get a design like the blue over the canopy correct? And how do you get the design of the blue gold and red on the rudder.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

That was definitly a tough one.

For the stripes along the Fuse and up the rudder, Cut them out straight (No bend where they turn to go up). YOu can bend them with the covering iron as you go around the corner. Cut them out of paper first, so if you don't get the size right, you didn't waste a piece of covering.

The area around the canopy was done in pieces - Front, sides and back. For the back, fold a piece of paper in half and draw one side. When you open the paper up, you have a symmetrical shape.

BTW, this was one of the last covering jobs I did before discovering Ultracote. UC would have made the job much easier because it has a paper backing that you can draw the designs on.

da_man

My Feedback: (30)

Thanks for the advice, it should help. I like how UC applies, but the monokote looks nicer. THey both have advantages and disadvantages in my opinion.

conradj87

My Feedback: (1)

How do you get stripes to stick? I have covered before, but this has always confused me. I heard somebody say something about windex? i've always used the trim strips that just stick on, never tried just using strips of the covering.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

For pinstripes, I usually use automotive striping tape (Available at Wallmart)

I usually tack down the two ends with CA just to make sure they don't lift.

If you were going to use covering, this is one of the few times I prefer MonkKote to Ultracote, because you can use trim solvent (or acetone) to wet them with, then they just stick and don't come off.

conradj87

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, sounds good.

da_man

My Feedback: (30)

Can acetone wreck the monokote at all?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Acetone will have no effect on the outside of the covering. What it WILL do is activate the adhesive. But it doesn't take long to evaporate, so there's not much working time (That's where the "No Heat" Trim solvent is better - It gives you more time to work)

brsseb

Just a quick covering question:

Ive brought the iron including a heat socket. But i was wondering if i really need a special heat gun for the job. Cant I just use a normal hair dryer?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

We all wish that were true, but a hair dryer doesn't get hot enough.

You don't NEED a heat gun, and for many years I covered without one, but once I tried one, I wouldn't cover without it.

Check your friends (In the hobby or not) they may loan you theirs (If they're not in the hobby, the still may have one. Heat guns are also used for stripping paint, but those can get too hot, so be careful)

brsseb

Thanks. Ill try covering without one first. If i feel the need for one, ill see if i can get one cheap somewhere. Just payed $40 for the iron..bet the heat gun are priced just the same...Damn, TOWER HOBBIES GET TO NORWAY NOW!! (they got heat gun and iron COMBO for around $20).