substitutes for old products
09-25-2004, 07:34 AM
#1
substitutes for old products
after building for 40 years but nothing the last few years started to build again only to find out my favorite old products are no longer around.can anyone tell me what substitutes are being used in their place,i feel lost now when i walk into the hobby shop as the man i learned to fly r/c from 34 years ago died of a stroke and his store closed down.
here is the list.
hobbypoxy formulas 2 and 4 and smooth and easy-epoxy glues for fiberglassing and high stress areas both 5 min and 1 hour varieties
carters rubber cement,souther shorgum,3m 77 spray -attaching wing skins to foam wings.
hobbypoxy and k&b superpoxy paints.
fuel with 25% oil content any one still make fuel with this amount of oil?
thanks all for any help you can provide.
here is the list.
hobbypoxy formulas 2 and 4 and smooth and easy-epoxy glues for fiberglassing and high stress areas both 5 min and 1 hour varieties
carters rubber cement,souther shorgum,3m 77 spray -attaching wing skins to foam wings.
hobbypoxy and k&b superpoxy paints.
fuel with 25% oil content any one still make fuel with this amount of oil?
thanks all for any help you can provide.
09-25-2004, 08:08 AM
#2
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RE: substitutes for old products
Hobby Poxy glues are no longer around. I use either Bob Smith brand (which most hobby shops mark as their brand) or Pacer (Zap) epoxy glues and resin. Pacer being my preferance.
Southern Sorgum is still available from Dave Brown.
3m77 is still available but they have changed the formula so it is no longer compatible with foam.
For attaching wing skins I have had great succsess with Elmers Pro Bond polyuethane glue.
Hobby Poxy and K+B superpoxy Paints are both gone now. Klasscote is a new brand that is almost identical and I have heard great feedback from folks who have used it and had great results. I plan to use some on my next project.
Hope this helps.
Southern Sorgum is still available from Dave Brown.
3m77 is still available but they have changed the formula so it is no longer compatible with foam.
For attaching wing skins I have had great succsess with Elmers Pro Bond polyuethane glue.
Hobby Poxy and K+B superpoxy Paints are both gone now. Klasscote is a new brand that is almost identical and I have heard great feedback from folks who have used it and had great results. I plan to use some on my next project.
Hope this helps.
09-25-2004, 08:17 AM
#3
RE: substitutes for old products
ORIGINAL: scalebldr
after building for 40 years but nothing the last few years started to build again only to find out my favorite old products are no longer around.can anyone tell me what substitutes are being used in their place,i feel lost now when i walk into the hobby shop as the man i learned to fly r/c from 34 years ago died of a stroke and his store closed down.
here is the list.
hobbypoxy formulas 2 and 4 and smooth and easy-epoxy glues for fiberglassing and high stress areas both 5 min and 1 hour varieties
>They still have epoxies. I would suggest the 30 minute epoxy for gluing.
>It is much stronger than the 5 minute epoxy.
>For fiberglassing, I suggest "finishing resin" (Lowes, Home Depot ).
>FWIW - They now have fiberglass cloth as light as 1/2 oz per square yd.
>Another thing is that for glassing a plane, many people are now using
>waterbase polyurethane instead of epoxy. I have found the waterbase
>poly to be much easier to use and sand, plus it is substantially lighter in
>weight.
>For general gluing use CA. Thin for tight fitting joints and medium for looser
>fitting joints and for balsa to ply or ply to ply joints. If you have (or develop)
>a sensitivity to CA, "TiteBond" wood glue works very well. The big
>advantage to CA, beside the strength, is the speed of it's drying. The
>thin CA is pretty much instaneous and the medium is about 30 seconds.
>You do need to be careful with CA as you can literally glue your fingers
>together or to something (Acetone disolves CA).
carters rubber cement,souther shorgum,3m 77 spray -attaching wing skins to foam wings.
>Rubber cement is still available. Look in the Stationary or School
>Supplies section at Wal-Mart. 3M-77 spray is still around (I bought
>a can last week at Home Depot ). I can not help you with the
>shorgum. I have heard of it, but that is all (I am not even
>sure what it is used for )
hobbypoxy and k&b superpoxy paints.
>Hobbypoxy and Superpoxy paint are no longer available thanks
>to the EPA and other environmentalists. There is a new 2 part
>epoxy paint on the market that, according to reports, is supposed
>to be as good as the hobby/super poxy, but manages to keep
>"The do-gooders" happy.
fuel with 25% oil content any one still make fuel with this amount of oil?
>Can not help your here. Most of the people I know are using in the
>18% - 20% oil range - USUALLY a synthetic/castor mix. If you feel
>you need a higher oil content, you can buy castor and add it to the
>fuel. I do not remember the formula for determining how much
>oil you need to add to raise the percentage, however, I am sure
>someone will remember.
thanks all for any help you can provide.
after building for 40 years but nothing the last few years started to build again only to find out my favorite old products are no longer around.can anyone tell me what substitutes are being used in their place,i feel lost now when i walk into the hobby shop as the man i learned to fly r/c from 34 years ago died of a stroke and his store closed down.
here is the list.
hobbypoxy formulas 2 and 4 and smooth and easy-epoxy glues for fiberglassing and high stress areas both 5 min and 1 hour varieties
>They still have epoxies. I would suggest the 30 minute epoxy for gluing.
>It is much stronger than the 5 minute epoxy.
>For fiberglassing, I suggest "finishing resin" (Lowes, Home Depot ).
>FWIW - They now have fiberglass cloth as light as 1/2 oz per square yd.
>Another thing is that for glassing a plane, many people are now using
>waterbase polyurethane instead of epoxy. I have found the waterbase
>poly to be much easier to use and sand, plus it is substantially lighter in
>weight.
>For general gluing use CA. Thin for tight fitting joints and medium for looser
>fitting joints and for balsa to ply or ply to ply joints. If you have (or develop)
>a sensitivity to CA, "TiteBond" wood glue works very well. The big
>advantage to CA, beside the strength, is the speed of it's drying. The
>thin CA is pretty much instaneous and the medium is about 30 seconds.
>You do need to be careful with CA as you can literally glue your fingers
>together or to something (Acetone disolves CA).
carters rubber cement,souther shorgum,3m 77 spray -attaching wing skins to foam wings.
>Rubber cement is still available. Look in the Stationary or School
>Supplies section at Wal-Mart. 3M-77 spray is still around (I bought
>a can last week at Home Depot ). I can not help you with the
>shorgum. I have heard of it, but that is all (I am not even
>sure what it is used for )
hobbypoxy and k&b superpoxy paints.
>Hobbypoxy and Superpoxy paint are no longer available thanks
>to the EPA and other environmentalists. There is a new 2 part
>epoxy paint on the market that, according to reports, is supposed
>to be as good as the hobby/super poxy, but manages to keep
>"The do-gooders" happy.
fuel with 25% oil content any one still make fuel with this amount of oil?
>Can not help your here. Most of the people I know are using in the
>18% - 20% oil range - USUALLY a synthetic/castor mix. If you feel
>you need a higher oil content, you can buy castor and add it to the
>fuel. I do not remember the formula for determining how much
>oil you need to add to raise the percentage, however, I am sure
>someone will remember.
thanks all for any help you can provide.
