Capt Jim

My Feedback: (168)

I am looking to get sources, and comments from users. There seems to be many available, but I don't see any posts on RCU on the subject. Thanks for your comments.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

MPI makes a very good one, but it is pricey. [link=http://www.maxxprod.com]MPI[/link]

A buddy and I are using one on a twin. For our seaplanes, we make our own from a Radio Shack micro switch, $2.95, an on-off switch, $2.95, a battery and an old servo. We make up a switch unit on the servo and mix it to throttle. This way you don't have to mess with the mechanical adjustment on top of the throttle servo, you just program in the travel to get the battery turn-on where you want it. I am using a multi-point mix on mine. We use them on all our float planes and they work well.

E-mail if you'd like photos.

bhole74

I have and EDR glowlite, works great. Complete system w/charger ran about $70.

Capt Jim

My Feedback: (168)

Hi Ed...It's been a while since the last time we chatted here on RCU. I was building an F-4 back then. It's built, but still not flown. As for the on board glow...I like your idea with the micro switch and mixing a servo signal with the throttle. I get the idea, but I sure would like to see a pic just to see how you made it all come together mecahically. Thanks for the great idea.
Jim
[email protected]

beachflier

Ed,

What is the micro switch that you are using? Not sure how much power is being lost from the switch but that would be a concern to me. My thoughts would be that you are using a wheel for the servo arm and making it elliptical. You could probably use the same servo that the throttle linkage is on. Put the micro servo on the other side. This would reduce the weight of the additional servo.

I think I will try that on my RV-4 with Saito 72 that is inverted.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I am using the little, cheap Radio Shack switch. I was also concerned, but the amp rating was up there, I forget what, but it looked OK. I tried one and it seems to work OK.

We have been trying to make the unit smaller. At this point, we have one with the switch on top of the servo and one with it on the side. I am using a regular servo arm, but limiting the mix. On my JR 8103, I am using a multi-point mix and setting the arm to hit the switch at just under half throttle. Once it closes the switch, I set the mix to zero. This is the beauty of using multi-point.

For a battery, we settled on using a standard glow igniter, you know, the push and twist thing you use to start your plane. Every time you buy a new one, you get a new charger. I cut off a few old charge cables and solder them in the on-board glow circuit. When I put the wing on, I connect in a glow igniter and hold it down with Velcro. If you should happen to have one go dead, they are all over so you can borrow one. Horizon has a mini, 1000 mil, one that is lighter than the usual 1800 mil Tower one. (Not that you are saving much). These things are easy to charge, easy to replace and easy to hook-up.

We did a test of hooking one up and just letting it go until the plug went out. Took about 20 minutes. I figured that wasn't enough for our usual flights so we went to the micro switch to cut off at high throttle and come on in the 1/3-1/2 range.

tsawyer148

My Feedback: (8)

I kinda like this one. Simple....

http://www.eaglehobbies.com/

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

I'll second the recommendation of the MPI unit. Works just as advertised. It was a bit of a pain to assemble; you get a bag full of loose components and good instructions/diagrams.

No big deal for those electronically inclined; but if you're "solder challenged", as I am, it is a bit of a fiddle to get together.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I've tried 2--Expert, which burnt up first time I turned it on and almost took the plane with it, and MPi Super Glo, which is working fine, as of today. The MPi was also cheaper, somewhere around $40, the unit is just smaller than the receiver. It can be used in 3 modes, auto, manual or dual, which gives you the option of overriding the auto function (meaning that you can turn it back on after the auto feature has turned it off.)

To use the auto feature, you plug your throttle servo into it and it into the receiver's throttle position. Turn everything on and its LED will blink, set your throttle stick at where you want the glow to light and press the button on the MPi unit, and you're set. When you throttle down, the glow plug will heat when the throttle gets to the position you programmed, and go off when you throttle up. The LED is on whenever the unit is supplying power to the glow plug. It turns on and off with your receiver, but recommends another switch between it and the glow battery (1.2V).

I set my transmitter this way (9CAP Futaba): Switch "C" is the long 3-position switch on the upper right of the front panel. Center is "off", Up is "manual on" for the glow, and Down is "Throttle Cut". Gives me all my secondary throttle and ignition control on one switch. I hardly ever used the auto feature, so I finally changed it to a completely manual setup. Tx on with Switch C at center, Rx on, glow battery switch on, then when you flip switch C up, glow is hot and you can start the engine. Once engine is running smoothly, flip C to center and you're good to go. Just flip C up any time during flight if you want the glow to light. When you land , idle back and flip C down, throttle cut kills your engine and your glow is off, also.

FYI-- I have tried different capacity batteries to ensure having enough energy if I needed the glow on for the entire flight. I hooked up a 1500 mAh NiCd to a glow plug and it was still glowing bright orange 25 min. later, and the battery, when checked, was at 1.26V. Because it fits my available space better, I use 2 AA size 2000mAh NiMH in parallel (4000mAh total). I can fly all day and never worry about having to charge the glow battery. I know this is more than you asked. I'll shut up now

LJE4357

My Feedback: (74)

I am using the MPI on my new twin trainer I have just finished designing and building. It works fantastic. I didn't have to, but I'm using 2, one in each nacell, that way its close to the battery and the engine. Also when using on board glow, its best to have a seperate on-off switch.

Larry Epifanio
SouthEast Model Products
Orlando, Fl.

birdnest

doesn't anybody like electrodynamics?

http://www.electrodynam.com/cgi-loca...exe/?E+scstore

peter

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone recall the link to a "roll-your-own" electronic switch? One was discussed here a while ago but I couldn't find it. I have too many batteries and chargers lying around already so just need the electronics. The problem with the microswitch approach is that it does not shut off when the receiver goes off and the battery goes flat when you forget to flip a switch or go to hi throttle before you shut down. The electrodynamics one would be good if you could get just the switch unit.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Take a look at the IGD from Nelson http://www.nelsonhobby.com/electr.html

Why do you need a glow driver ?

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Here's a new one from microsens, glow 4b, which runs from receiver batt http://members.aon.at/microsens/english.html

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

Really complicated systems for a simple job! As to why to have one -- one less hole in the cowl, better idle (especially an inverted engine), nothing to forget to unhook when you take off[X(], less likely to stick your hand in the prop...

rctrax

c-tronics.com

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

rctrax,

Tried to access the web sit you gave but went to "register.com" where they said it was recently registered. Was not able to get to the web site itself.

nicadflyer

I built one for a Cessna With a inverted 4 cycle engine. It cost about $10.00 and took a couple of hours to set up. It not that hard to do.

Paul

patternwannabee

My Feedback: (1)

RC_Fanatic,

Is this what you're looking for? [link=http://www.welwyn.demon.co.uk/rcsw/rcsw.htm]Ken Hewitt's RC Switch[/link]

Or try this one [link=http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/rc-sw.htm]Modified[/link] if the transistor is hard to come by.

Has anyone used tried this for on-board glow?

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the links. I also found this one, [link=http://www.cliftech.com/pdf/OptogloII.pdf]OptogloII[/link], which is opto isolated, compact and can handle two plugs. This one is now a commercial unit.

rctrax

rcfanatic sorry bout that the correct address is c-tronicsinc.com . This is how I have it in my favorats file.

btrudgen

Hi gang, I'm new to this forum bit so please be patient, a friend of mine bought an SJPropo onboard glow unit and it is having trouble igniting the glow plug in the engine, we have tested the voltage with a multimeter and all appears to be in order but we can't get enough power to light the plug, any ideas please.

Hurri

I often use "on board ign" , Question That i never saw mentioned in this topic. I have just put a n OS 120 4/s in at 7o'clock position & have trouble with the connection to the plug; The OS plug is well recessed & some ideas I've used will not go on . I did one time find some actual small rubber boots as on a gas eng; think they came from Holland , but these are long gone from my stock . I have used a small brass block with allen set screws to lock , but with the OS recessed no luck . At moment have a spring idea , like a small scissor , but not too happy with that , so what do you guys use ??? Thanks .

flynavy

[sm=75_75.gif]I recently read somewhere that Sullivan prodcts came ou with an on board glow ignition. The thing I like about it it has an auxilliary led you can mount anywere convenient that lights up when the plug is powered. It comes with its own battery and charger , you supply the plug to hook up to the reciever. To the flyer having problems hooking up to the glow plug , try cutting off part of the rubber boot . I had the same problem because I'm using an os a3plug.











NEVER GIVE UP WHEN FLYING INVERTED!!! FLYNAVY