taildragger j-3

I'm completing a Top Flite P-47, and have painted it with latex paint using suggestions from Model Airplane News articles. They suggest polyurethane or epoxy to fuelproof the finsh. I'm looking at Lustrekote's clear flat, and wondered if anyone has had experience using it as a fuelproofer over latex. I'd like to keep the flat finish for my 1942 color scheme.

Thanks!
David Strawn

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Yes, Lustrekote flat clear will work fine over latex, provided that the latex is fully dried (at least three weeks). Boil a pot of water and put the LustreKote spray can in it for a minute or so, then shake the can vigorously for a minute and lightly mist on the first coat. Resist the temptation to aim for total coverage on the first coat. Wait a couple of minutes and apply a second coat, this time slightly wetter and heavier. Repeat the same process if a third coat is needed.

taildragger j-3

Thanks! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

David S.

RCPAUL

My Feedback: (1)

I think I'd be more than a little concerned about putting an aersol can in boiling water!!!!

The water, I think, should be only hot enough to be comfortaqble to the hand.

Paul

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

I should be more clear. You take the water up to the boiling point and remove the pot from the stove, then put the can in the water for a minute or so. You don't continue to boil the water while the spray can is in it. I've done it several times without any incident.

Montague

Why heat the spray can at all? What does that do. Maybe raise the pressure in the can and result in a better spray pattern?

Fwiw, I use latex paint and Lusterkote flat clear on my combat models. I've even used the clear coat only a few hours after spraying the latex. This has an odd effect.

If you let the latex dry as recommended above, it fully cures, which is a good thing. I've heard that latex can be fuel proof all by itself if it drys long enough, but I've never tried it.

However, if you wait until the paint is dry to the touch (sometimes, just a few hours, but I usually wait over night), you can spray the lusterkote. The Lusterkote then attacks and mixes with the latex paint. If you touch the paint at this point, the latex will come up, since it's been softened by the lusterkote. But when it all drys, you get a finish that seems fuel proof and looks good. Do a test first though, just in case it is somehow brand-dependant or something. This works for me, but if it does't work for you, it's not my fault .

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Yes, heating up the can reduces spitting and gives much better spray pattern and finer mist. Some people actually used a blow torch to heat it up, but I wouldn't dare try that.

Montague

You know, the side of the can says use when the temp is higher than (I think) 75*. High enough that last time I used the stuff I was thinking "I'm screwed" since it was in the 50's outside. I improvised by holding the can inside my coat and using a space heater held behind the can, so the paint was blown "downwind" in the hot air until it hit the plane. Seemed to work, but I did notice the mist seemed to not be as fine as I normally get in the middle of summer.

I was worried the temp warning would do something to the curing of the paint, but after playing with it, I decided it probibly had to do with the solvenets and propellant pressure. Using hot water bath sounds like a great solution next time I need to spray in cold weather. Thanks for the tip.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

I tried spraying a couple of times without warming up the can first, and the clear coat came out too thick, very close to giving me runs. Maybe a minute in a boiling pot of water is slightly too long and might cause the can to blow if not careful. I would try 30 seconds first just to be safe or use luke warm water instead of boiling water.

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

CAUTION:. If I remember most spray cans are tested to 125F for pressure testing. I am sure in hot cars it goes more than that so perhaps the temp is higher. But I would not use more that 125F for heating a spray can, basically the hottest tap water that you can hold your hand is probably about the right temp. You don't want to be around if a can blows.

Ok,, I could be wrong,, but I just don't want anyone to get hurt in a fun hobby. Jim

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I use 2 coats of SATIN water base polyurethane sprayed on for my warbirds. The finish is VERY CLOSE to what an actual plane would have for a "shine".

Do a test panel and see if this would be good for you. FWIW - I add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart of polyurethane/latex BEFORE diluting it. The FloTrol helps the paint to level better.

The water base poly is definitely good to 10% nitro (all I use ) and I have read several reports of it being good with 15% nitro also.