Onboard Glow Setup
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Onboard Glow Setup
I was at my LHS and they had a McDaniel model 471 onboard glow driver for sale. It was missing some of the extra wireing, it had the bag with the plug for the engine and the connectors for that. Can some tell me what I need to get a battery to connect to it. Do I need a single cell or a flat pack to wire in? It has no instructions, so if someone could show me the battery conections and any information would be great. Thanks
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RE: Onboard Glow Setup
Ok, this is what I have done so far. I took a 4 cell AA holder that was in an RC car and cut the end off of it. I then cut the end off of the glow system and soldered them together. I got 1800mah NIMH AA's from the camera department at the store, and put in the holder. I am trying to charge them through the setup now. I guess if the house does not burn down in a little bit, it will be ok. The only thing that worries me is the battery holder had small wires, like 20 or 22 gauge in it.
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RE: Onboard Glow Setup
Ok problem 1. When I touch the glow plug to the side of the engine and the ground is touching also, and the unit turned on, the box just starts whining like a bug until I break the conection. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be? Thanks
I am curious, the black wire on the glow plug side is hot, and the red is the ground, I wonder if its the same on the battery side or oposite?
I am curious, the black wire on the glow plug side is hot, and the red is the ground, I wonder if its the same on the battery side or oposite?
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RE: Onboard Glow Setup
I'm not all that familiar with that particular glow plug remote ignitor, but you should have the following:
- A 3 wire lead with a servo connector that will plug into your receiver. This sends a servo-like signal to the ignitor telling it to turn on and off.
- Maybe a light bulb or LED on the unit's box or on a wire lead that will turn on and off when the receiver gets the signal from the transmitter to do so.
- a screwdriver adjustable control on the box they sets the point where the unit turns on and off. (Set this to mid-range)
- A red and a black wire, probably large diameter flexible kind of wires
Take those 4 AA cells and disconnect them completely. The glow plugs run on a single cell, 1.2 volts or so, and 4.8 volts will burn out your glow plug immediately.
I may be wrong but wire it up as follows:
- Heavy red wire to tip of glow plug
- Heavy black wire to positive lead of a 1.2 volt C cell, at least 1500 maH or more. Nicad is best, those NiMH may have too much internal resistance to work well.
- The negative of the battery to the case of the engine.
You also have to wire up a battery charging lead, just an old servo lead will do, red to battery positive, black to battery negative, white or yellow (servo signal) left disconnected)
Try to make the unit turn on and off without connecting the glow plug at first. You can use any reciever channel for now. Later you can either Y it into the throttle channel or as I prefer, connect it to a separate channel so it can be turned on and off at any time.
Once the unit will turn on and off, hook it to a separate glow plug and touch the threads of that plug to the case of the engine. This way you can see if it lights up when the selected transmitter control is moved one way or the other.
If it does, great! Connect it to the engine's plug and try to start the engine.
If not, the battery polarity may be reversed, but I don't think it will be. Maybe the unit has been damaged by you using those 4 AA cells.
Remember to connect the control lead to the channel you wish to have controlling the unit.
Keep us posted..
- A 3 wire lead with a servo connector that will plug into your receiver. This sends a servo-like signal to the ignitor telling it to turn on and off.
- Maybe a light bulb or LED on the unit's box or on a wire lead that will turn on and off when the receiver gets the signal from the transmitter to do so.
- a screwdriver adjustable control on the box they sets the point where the unit turns on and off. (Set this to mid-range)
- A red and a black wire, probably large diameter flexible kind of wires
Take those 4 AA cells and disconnect them completely. The glow plugs run on a single cell, 1.2 volts or so, and 4.8 volts will burn out your glow plug immediately.
I may be wrong but wire it up as follows:
- Heavy red wire to tip of glow plug
- Heavy black wire to positive lead of a 1.2 volt C cell, at least 1500 maH or more. Nicad is best, those NiMH may have too much internal resistance to work well.
- The negative of the battery to the case of the engine.
You also have to wire up a battery charging lead, just an old servo lead will do, red to battery positive, black to battery negative, white or yellow (servo signal) left disconnected)
Try to make the unit turn on and off without connecting the glow plug at first. You can use any reciever channel for now. Later you can either Y it into the throttle channel or as I prefer, connect it to a separate channel so it can be turned on and off at any time.
Once the unit will turn on and off, hook it to a separate glow plug and touch the threads of that plug to the case of the engine. This way you can see if it lights up when the selected transmitter control is moved one way or the other.
If it does, great! Connect it to the engine's plug and try to start the engine.
If not, the battery polarity may be reversed, but I don't think it will be. Maybe the unit has been damaged by you using those 4 AA cells.
Remember to connect the control lead to the channel you wish to have controlling the unit.
Keep us posted..
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RE: Onboard Glow Setup
Thanks. You might be right about me damaging it. I did have to reverse polarity on the battery pack to get it to work. I was using my 5th channel to run it. The problem I am having now, is I can turn it on and off by the light and the switch on the tx, but even with it off, if I touch the glow plug to the engine, it will still burn. But at least I found out one thing, on 4.8 volts, you can almost use an OS glow plug for a flash light lol. I was suprised I did not burn out the plug. But I may have burnt out the internal switch in the glow driver. I guess I will have to call the manufacturer and see. The box said it did not include a 4.8 volt battery, so I assumed that is what it runs on. Thanks for the info, I will keep you posted.
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RE: Onboard Glow Setup
I just talked to the manufacturer, and he thought there may be a problem with it, and told me to send it in. By reversing polarity and getting it to work, and not turning off was a symtem of the reversed polarity, but the the polarity is correct it should not be making a buzzing and whining sound. So I will have to get it out this weekend and I will see what happens from there.