Firewalkerd1

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HELP
After installing the tail feathers using epoxy I used alcohol to remove what squeezed out while wet. I guess I missed a little. What is a good way to remove the dried stuff that has turned yellow and makes a plane look bad?

ecmiller

I've used a heat gun to soften dried epoxy. If it's bare wood we're talking about, heat it up with a heat gun and scrape it off. If your plane is covered you will more than likely damage the covering with heat.

If the surfaces were covered prior to glueing them down, you could fashion some strips of covering and cover over the top of the glue where it squeezed out.

Campy

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Other options.

IF IT IS ON A FILM COVERING, is to soften the epoxy with a heat gun and wipe it off with acetone. Be careful you do not burn through the film. The acetone will remove the softened epoxy. You will probably need to do several applications to get the epoxy off.

Do not do this if it is a painted finish or a cloth covering since it will remove the paint or the finish from a cloth covering.

I also suggest you do this in a well ventelated area since the acetone fumes will get to you.


You can also CAREFULLY cut out the area with the epoxy on it and cut a patch of matching material and iron it in place. FWIW - I find a trim iron is very good for getting into tight places and sharp corners.

RedLyons

How about using a dremel tool with a cylinder or sphere cutting bit?

You can get the sphere cutting bits down to pretty tiny sizes, and I've used them for shaping and removing unwanted epoxy. You have to be careful when you come up against softer material, but if you have the extension cable so you aren't holding the motor itself, you can usually keep enough control to get just the material you want removed. Also, with the smaller bits, you don't have to apply as much force, so you have more control of what you're removing.

The way I work it is not to just push the bit into what I want removed, I keep a very strong hold on the cable end and move the bits through the material that I want removed, taking off a little at a time until I get what I want. My movement defines the shape that is left, and the firmness of my hand determines where it goes.

I don't know if it'll help in your situation or not, but it's a thought. Good luck.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

What is the glue on? Usually you can just pop it off of covering with little to no work.

Firewalkerd1

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The epoxy is on monokote over wood surface. I first used alcohol while the epoxy was still wet. It appeared to be off until dried. I got some of the larger off by a sharp point but the thin which smeared, dried yellow is the problem.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

That might be tougher. You could try laquer thinner, but I don't think it will work. Heat will destroy the covering. Your either going to have to live with it or strip that part and re-cover

A. J. Clark

Here's a tip for the next time. I used to try to wipe the excess before it started to set. It always smeared around. I found waiting until it gets in a rubber state then peel it up with a knife works much better. It all sticks together this way. You must catch it in the right state though. To early and it smears. To late and it's tough to get up.

A. J. Clark

backfire

I've removed tiny amounts of cured epoxy with CA debonder - takes a while.