voyager_663rd

No such thing as a dumb question and I don't want to cut away too much if its not needed but need some guidance here please.

This concerns the installation of the Robinaire gear in the TF Corsair. In order to get the gear inside the wing, a LOT of spar has to be sanded out so the cylinder fits in.

My question is twofold: am I going about this the right way? and two: I need to take about another 1/4" out of the spar so the gear fits in. Is this too much? Does the leg need to be parallel to the underside of the wing or can it "stick out" a bit?

Sticking out a bit means less spar to cut away/more strength in the spar. I've tried to show different angles of the leg in the wing. The "UP" angle is probably exagerrated because the gear is just propped up from underneath with a screwdriver to approximate what I'm trying to describe.

You can see in the first pic that the gear needs to go down (ie more sanding of the spar).

Lemme know.

Thanks.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

If it were mine, I would go ahead and cut the spar so the gear will fit in the correct location. Be sure to keep a radius on the cut-out area to prevent a stress point. Then cut and glue doublers on both sides of the spar. Do the same at all the sub spars as well. Maybe even add a little carbon fiber to the top of the spar before sheeting the wing, and between the spar and added doublers. If installed correctly, carbon fiber can add a lot of strength without much weight.

voyager_663rd

yah, there are doublers in place now. in fact, there are going to be tripplers (trying to find them in the multitude of sheets supplied).

sbd-5

My Feedback: (4)

you are doing it correct,no other way to do it really and those plywood joiners will take alot to break espeically when sheeted.from what i have seen the center section usually survives a crash the break occuring outboard of the retracts where the outer panels are attached.

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

I also think you are doing it right. I would put the tripler in made from ply, then use hard wood like maple or similar as your gear plates and run it from the LE to the spar. The retract will also help with the spar wing loading.

voyager_663rd

Thanks guys. Appreciate the confirmation.

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Just finished lunch, & decided to look at email. The tie-in provided by the mechanics far exceeds the strength of the full sized spar. BUT--what it attaches to is most important! carrying maple motor bearer type mounts to the spar and properly gusseting it will provide great strength. I'm looking at the busted wing mockup I've used for fitting purposes, and the mounting surface, on the outboard side, is 1/2" down at a point 1-1/4" from the leading edge doubler. At the spar end, it is 3/8" down. On the inboard side, the bearer is closer to the wing surface enough to get the leg pointed vertical to the "ground". My notch is rounded at the bottom, where the minimum spar depth is 1/2" from the top skin. Although I didn't bother for the mockup purposes, you can also set 3/8 x 1/2" hardwood bearers on edge in a 3/8" notch cut into the spar, down approx 7/8" and epoxy well. Ties in nicely to the inboard spar. That's my 1.2 cents worth! Kay is coming along slowly on the eye bit. We go back for checkup in 3 weeks. She has seen some small, tantalizing improvement! Lee Oh yes, I'll be shipping some gear tomorrow and Tuesday. Lee

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Just finished lunch, & decided to look at email. The tie-in provided by the mechanics far exceeds the strength of the full sized spar. BUT--what it attaches to is most important! carrying maple motor bearer type mounts to the spar and properly gusseting it will provide great strength. I'm looking at the busted wing mockup I've used for fitting purposes, and the mounting surface, on the outboard side, is 1/2" down at a point 1-1/4" from the leading edge doubler. At the spar end, it is 3/8" down. On the inboard side, the bearer is closer to the wing surface enough to get the leg pointed vertical to the "ground". My notch is rounded at the bottom, where the minimum spar depth is 1/2" from the top skin. Although I didn't bother for the mockup purposes, you can also set 3/8 x 1/2" hardwood bearers on edge in a 3/8" notch cut into the spar, down approx 7/8" and epoxy well. Ties in nicely to the inboard spar. That's my 1.2 cents worth! Kay is coming along slowly on the eye bit. We go back for checkup in 3 weeks. She has seen some small, tantalizing improvement! Lee Oh yes, I'll be shipping some gear tomorrow or Tuesday. Lee

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

GAD!! I went back to thread and didn't find the post! So I went back to the email page and sent it again! 'ol thickskull forgot I was in a different thresd! So please excuse the double entry! I'm going to take a stab at some close-up pics of this wing. Lee

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Hi Len & all; When taking the pics, I realized one of the problems is that you must be trying to mount it on the same platform as the 615! That won't work, as it is much too deep in the wing. In the pics you will see how I glued some scrap ply in to raise the unit closer to the surface. on the inboard, the gear flange (1/8") is almost even with the surface. Let's see if these load properly. Lee

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Wha---where did that smiley come from? Lee

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Also, see pic in my gallery of gear in wing, up, and looking along bottom of wing. Lee

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Guys; The one pic I wanted wasn't in the gallery! so here it is with a couple more. Lee

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

One other thing; in the center pic you can see the bottom end of leg sticking up a bit. I'm using a different bottom end now, and I hadn't trimmed the axle. It was actually hitting the top skin and holding it up a bit. You will all have to exercise your own judgment on the precise, final alignment. A bit of projection below the wing won't hurt anything. Lee

voyager_663rd

Thanks Lee. Pic's are just great. In post #13, the left pic is the one that helps me the most. I see that the flange (that's the part I didn't know the name for) is basically level with the sheeting and that was my biggest question/concern.

Also, your giving the height/length from the LE and the spar were also bang just what was needed.

Thanks bud.

Len

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Quick question; How do I get to this thread without going to other one and clicking on Lens' forwarding urrl? By the way, I'm getting notes from several people on the same scale version for P-47 & P-51!! Am going to take a look at it while ensconced in front of the "boob tube", which is quite unchallenging these days!! Lee

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

It is the thread titled "Installing Retracts", it is in the Questions and Answers section of the Airplane forums.

voyager_663rd

When you get to this topic Lee, just save it (the page you are on) in your "favourite" folder/bookmarks or whatever browser you are using. It's called different things in different browsers. I use firefox and it's a "bookmark".

You can change the name (without changing the url) by just typing whatever you want in the space alloted for a name.

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Hi Len; Just reread your comment on the left pic. It is nearly level with the surface on inboard side, but about 1/8" down on the outboaed side. Please send me a pic when you get it installed, including any hints & kinks I can pass on to others. Incidentally, I just posted an exciting update on Kay in the robinaire 60 thread!! Lee

voyager_663rd

that 1/8th" down and level is on a wing that is already sheeted. I have to take the sheeting into account (not attached yet) when fixing the rails in place.

Will do. I'm trying to locate scrap maple for the rails and engine mount right now. None in my supplies.

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Hello all; Have started on the centersection for my Gold Edition Corsair. I'll be taking many pics of what I do. Can make one suggestion already for anybody, on any kit or plane; of the 2 ribs on either side of the gear, glue ONE in place, but do not glue the other. Bolt the gear to the hardwood rails. Now position the assembly into the space and adjust for proper alignment with gear up and wheel on. CA the rail to the already glued rib, and then slide the other rib against the other rail and glue. I learned the hard way by glueing both ribs, and finding things wouldn't fit without a bunch of trimming and shimming! Those with planes already built will be stuck with fitting things, but if you are just starting to build, this way is a snap. I actually broke one rib loose so I could do it right! Lee

voyager_663rd

broke one rib eh? you HAD to have been looking over my shoulder. Me too. Now I'm shimming with 1/32" ply to get the rails in snug. [:@]

Robinaire

My Feedback: (23)

Hi Dennis; I don't have to look over anybodys shoulder! My goofs are "home-grown"!! Actually, I didn't break the rib, I broke it loose, as it was only spot glued, fortunately. Lee

voyager_663rd

Ya, well mine snapped. I didn't want to glue it at the time and some "leaked" over from another location. P'd me off but hey, thats the game.

Anyways, here's some pics of the first one in. In picture #4 I have a question though: with the gear fully extended, the axle points slightly outboard. Isn't it supposed to point slightly in (toe in?). I checked the other uninstalled gear and it points out as well. Is it because they weren't extended with air (I gently extended them manually).

Aren't the wheels supposed to point in?

Len

voyager_663rd

pic 2