SaCCaL72

My Feedback: (1)

I want to add grafix to my already covered plane, should I use Monokote over top the original covering or should I use the already sticky trim sheets? If Monokote, how do I keep it from bubbling up or wrinkling? What are some techniques to doing this with a good outcome? And the only problem with trim sheets is they are only 4" wide, limiting me to my grafix size. Some are small grafix and some will cover a pretty big area. Thanks in advance...

sbd-5

My Feedback: (4)

trim sheets are easier to work with but monokote can be used to elimate bubbles apply with the adhesive solvent so that you can squeeze out the air bubbles as the adhesive re sticks.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

If you try and stick it with the trim solvent only you'll have terrible results. It kicks to fast to work with and there is a much easier way.

"Float" it on with windex and position it where you want. Then use some soft balsa scrap to squeegee out the excess liquid and a paper towel to sop it up. Hold the balsa so the grain lets it flex a little for best results. Let it dry overnight.

When it is dry the next day (maybe will need slightly more squeegee) use the trim solvent on a Q-tip around the edges to seal it down.

I have done it this way many times and had it last for years. If you use heat it will bubble and ruin the finish.

SaCCaL72

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the tips, but where do you get Trim Solvent?

depfife

My Feedback: (14)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHZ43&P=7

mirwin

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with BasinBum 110%. You'll be so disappointed with the Trim Solvent process that you'll never want to touch covering again.

Go with BasinBum's process.


Mike

lee292

My Feedback: (9)

Hmm...I used the Trim Solvent method with good results. You do have to be precise when you apply your graphic, though. Put "Trim Graphics Made Easy" into your search engine and look at the frisket method. Use the Trim Solvent sparingly or the color/adhesive will bleed out from under the graphic.

MajorTomski

May I suggest a copy of Hary Higley's books There are no Secrets and Tom's Techniques Book ? Helped me a lot with working with plastic coverings

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hig/higbok002.htm

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Lee,
I've done vinyl transfers that I had cut at a local sign shop using that method and it works well but for many applications the method I describes is so much easier to get good results. I especially recomend it for larger peices such as checkerboard or piano keys on the bottom of a wing. Working out bubbles when applied with solvent isn't very easy.

flightcrazed

My Feedback: (13)

50/50 mix of sudsy ammonia and water- spray it on the surface and position your monocoat pieces, squeegee out the bubbles and let dry. I used this on a Magic fun fly I recovered and it works GREAT!!!! Its been on there for over a year, and been quite abused..

Thom

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Another excellent method is to "tack" the Super Monokote trim in a few places with a Trim seal iron set prefereably on the low heat setting and (then)place a sheet of silk span over the trim and iron it down checking for creases and bubbles Try it you will like it.

50%plane

My Feedback: (5)

Use high heat on your base covering and use the lowest heat applicable on the trim Here's a pic of my Kaos that I did this to. I also used clear Lusterkote on the trim to keep it from peeling from excessive speeds.

Gringo Flyer

My Feedback: (18)

Type in "windex" in the search here on RCU and you will find a bunch of info on the method BasinBum suggested.

I dont really like the trim sheets. I have used them but its easy to get bubbles with them as well and unlike monokote you cant work out the bubbles with a sqeegy.