Koverall question
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Koverall question
Never used this covering before. The instructions say to use supercoat, lite coat dope or nitrate dope on frame.. then sand, then apply another coat and sand again. Then apply stix-it to frame before covering. My question is, is it important to apply the supercoat, lite coat dope or nitrate dope before the stix-it, and what is the perpose of these. Thanks for any help.....Dick
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RE: Koverall question
Yes, it's important to apply the nitrate dope before sticking down the fabric. The stix-it is a heat activated adhesive, but you apply it only to the perimeter of the frame. For example, to the leading and trailing edges of the wing, but not the ribs, spars and internal structure. Then, when you shrink out the fabric, it can "move" over the open areas for a smooth fit. You then apply dope from the outside of the fabric, which then activates the dope on the framework under the fabric to firmly bond the fabric to the wood. It makes a terriffic covering. Good luck.
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RE: Koverall question
You can skip the whole stix-it and just paint through the perimeter with 50-50 thinned dope and be done with it. using that method, it's on forever and ever! This is the method I have always used.
dave
dave
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RE: Koverall question
Hi
I am a novice with Koverall; my question is: how have I to proceed with Koverall to an undercambered airfoil section?
I am building a 1/6 scale Albatros CIII and the wings are thin and undercambred.
I have done some trials but I am a bit confused.....
Thanks for the reply
GianFrancesco
I am a novice with Koverall; my question is: how have I to proceed with Koverall to an undercambered airfoil section?
I am building a 1/6 scale Albatros CIII and the wings are thin and undercambred.
I have done some trials but I am a bit confused.....
Thanks for the reply
GianFrancesco
#6
RE: Koverall question
With the undercamber wing you will have to put the stix-it on all the ribs and iron them down, and you might start front to back, inching your way across the wing cord. you might use a trim iron for control. When you go to shrink, it might pull loose[>:], so you dont want to have to shrink it a lot; my SE5a did this on one wing panel with Coverite so buying something with adhesive on it wont solve the problem. If you plan to use real rib stitching that will help pull it up. I hope you put out some pictures because Albatros planes.
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RE: Koverall question
Hi TFF
thanks for the fast reply.
I will do as You explained and hope......!
Next week I will post some pictures of the wings and of other parts.
thanks for the fast reply.
I will do as You explained and hope......!
Next week I will post some pictures of the wings and of other parts.
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RE: Koverall question
Thanks for the encouragement.
The first half wing is covered; just to be trimmed off the surplus of Koverall; it seems OK!!!!
As the trailing edge is made of 0,8 mm. music wire....I made the covering in one piece: all the way from the leading edge, right around back to the leading edge; so with the shrinkage (careful) I got the scalloped trailing edge with slight rib protrusion.
Now let's see what happens with clear dope.........[/font]
The first half wing is covered; just to be trimmed off the surplus of Koverall; it seems OK!!!!
As the trailing edge is made of 0,8 mm. music wire....I made the covering in one piece: all the way from the leading edge, right around back to the leading edge; so with the shrinkage (careful) I got the scalloped trailing edge with slight rib protrusion.
Now let's see what happens with clear dope.........[/font]
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RE: Koverall question
Completlely scratch by my own cad drawings; sources : Windsock Datafile no. 13 and 1917 Avions Allemand -L'Aerophile by J. Lagorgette.
The "mistake" I have done is only a 1/6 scale and not a bigger one; details are smaller and a lot more difficult to make.
The "mistake" I have done is only a 1/6 scale and not a bigger one; details are smaller and a lot more difficult to make.
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RE: Koverall question
Actually the wing are all covered and the Keverall is well "Stix-it-ed" even to the undercambered surface......!
I am experimenting with dope painting with tailfeathers and very slowly proceeding........let's hope.
I am experimenting with dope painting with tailfeathers and very slowly proceeding........let's hope.
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RE: Koverall question
Those wings came out fantastically! The scallops are very subtle and realistic looking. As for your other work, it looks like you put a lot of time and pride into your work, excellent job. I also see now why you wish you had made it to 1/4 scale, would be more impressive but even at 1/6 scale, your work still looks impressive. And I agree, post this on scale forum.
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RE: Koverall question
The wings and tail surfaces are, at least and above all, all covered and clear doped!!!!
Here in Italy we cant find the banana oil=non shrinking dope; so I have made my own "stuff" with 1% of castor oil added to the conventional nitro clear dope with resulted satisfactory; the covering is firm even on the undercambered wing surface (with cyano to be sure!)
Now follow rib stitching simulation and colouring to reproduce the translucent original german linen fabric......
I a few days I will post some photos.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Here in Italy we cant find the banana oil=non shrinking dope; so I have made my own "stuff" with 1% of castor oil added to the conventional nitro clear dope with resulted satisfactory; the covering is firm even on the undercambered wing surface (with cyano to be sure!)
Now follow rib stitching simulation and colouring to reproduce the translucent original german linen fabric......
I a few days I will post some photos.
Thanks for the encouragement.
#19
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RE: Koverall question
ORIGINAL: GianFrancesco
The wings and tail surfaces are, at least and above all, all covered and clear doped!!!!
Here in Italy we cant find the banana oil=non shrinking dope; so I have made my own "stuff" with 1% of castor oil added to the conventional nitro clear dope with resulted satisfactory; the covering is firm even on the undercambered wing surface (with cyano to be sure!)
Now follow rib stitching simulation and colouring to reproduce the translucent original german linen fabric......
I a few days I will post some photos.
Thanks for the encouragement.
The wings and tail surfaces are, at least and above all, all covered and clear doped!!!!
Here in Italy we cant find the banana oil=non shrinking dope; so I have made my own "stuff" with 1% of castor oil added to the conventional nitro clear dope with resulted satisfactory; the covering is firm even on the undercambered wing surface (with cyano to be sure!)
Now follow rib stitching simulation and colouring to reproduce the translucent original german linen fabric......
I a few days I will post some photos.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Bellissimo
Pete
#20
RE: Koverall question
Would you please tell us the kind of wood and stain/finish you used on the fuselage? I really like the look.
Lovely work, and an exciting, unusual project!
Jim
Lovely work, and an exciting, unusual project!
Jim
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RE: Koverall question
The fuselage is covered with birch plywood panels glued with Stix-it and ironed down; the wood is prior stained with a mix of mahogany+ cherry+walnut to simulate the color I have found in a Albatros B I photos from an Austrian Museum; the stain I used was the alchool type and after some month is already a bit faded; perhaps I shall refurbish it or give a new coat of "impreganante" (italian text) varnish.