somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Was pondering some designs for the SSE kit I am currently working on and I was wondering how one would do this kinda cover design? Boggled at how the colors were layed down on this... []

Do you lay one color and then trim out the area you want the other color in and trim it to fit?

I got the covering basics down with the LT-40 I built. Would like to do a more advanced cover job on my current build.

Appreciate any input!

somegeek

Blue_Moon_

id also like to know how he did that!

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

There are different ways to acheive the results as shown in the link. It looks like for the most part the subject is laying down a color and after cutting out the shape of the next color he is ironing it down to the first. Another method is to lay down the first base color, cut out the second and use a slight overlap to iron down to the first. The major drawback to ironing large areas over other large areas is that it is extremely difficult to avoid air being trapped. A method I use is to lightly spray the first color and the back of the second color with plain water and a couple drops of liquid dishwashing soap. Lay on the following colors one at a time, posisition them and then gently squeegee all the water and air out from under your second color with something like an old credit card. Give this about a day to dry out completely and then iron your second color down to the first.

Blue_Moon_

I need pictures on this since my english is kinda bad

Ho do i cover "open ribs" (no planking at all between the ribs) with two diffrent colours? (the cover "joint" over the ribs) ofcourse i could cover the hole model in ONE colour and then go for the tiny trim things, but thats both an expensive and a heavy method.

i hope someone understand me....

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

If you want to change colors between bays the only way to do it where the covering strength is not compromised it to put down the base color and add the second color on top. You really need at least a half inch or so to lap colors.

Blue_Moon_

But this method makes a very heavy aircraft, right?

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

It depends on how much trim color you use.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Be aware that the liquid or Windex method ONLY WORKS FOR MONOKOTE. The adhesive used on Ultracote (Oracover ) is different, so the liquid method of applying the overlays will not work.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Campy - how does the windex interact with the monokote adhesive?

I understood that monocote works excellent with this application method, but never understood how the windex activates the monocote adhesive. I did however, learn with my LT-40 that Ultracote over ultracote is tricky at best for this newbie.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Somegeek,
Yes, you can use the windex method to apply monokote over monokote. You can also use it for monokote over ultracoat. It does a really good job of it, and it's a lot easier than trying to use heat to put it down.

Ken

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

I am not advocating the use of water/soap or windex as a method of adhesion but as a method of temporarially attaching the film to film and as a method of removing all trapped air between film sheets. After the film has a good chance to dry I've found that you can go back over the trim with an iron and get no bubbles.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I do use a trim iron around the edges of the top layer after they windex does dry. But if you go over the center parts of your top layer with heat you are more than likely going to get bubbles under it. If you plan on using heat to attach the top layer of monokote you would be better off not worrying about the windex, but you're probably going to get bubbles. I used windex to apply the graphics to these two planes (including the stars on the SSE and the checkerboard on the tail of the Slowpoke), and the graphics are all cut from monokote. Windex works great for putting monokote over another covering layer.

Ken

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Where the liquid comes into play is that it allows you to squeegee out all the air between the layers of film. I use this method and after giving the film a chance to completely dry I iron the top layer of film down and never have air bubbles. Try it, you'll like it.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

tashley - that's a fool-proof method. This fool used that method a few times in the past with auto and motorcycle graphics... also on my LT-40 wing...



I'd read though in a few threads that the windex 'activates' the adhesive in the monocote and that some folks don't follow up with any kinda ironing. [X(]