MPI On-board glow system
03-19-2006, 10:35 AM
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MPI On-board glow system
I'm setting up a Maxx products on-board glow system for an OS 160 twin. The directions are showing to connect the positive lead to the engine block. Does that sound right? If I understand correctly I splice the glow plug leads together and run the ground from the unit to the battery and the positive from the battery to the engine block with a switch on it.
Can someone with knowledge of this system tell me if I'm correct?
Thanks
Can someone with knowledge of this system tell me if I'm correct?
Thanks
03-19-2006, 10:23 PM
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RE: MPI On-board glow system
Yea, it just don't seem natural hooking the positive lead to the engine mount. I think I'm going to like this system, so far its doing everything its supposed to.
03-19-2006, 10:25 PM
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RE: MPI On-board glow system
It may seem like the positve side----but it isn't. The red wire from the controller to the plugs is the +(positive) side of the SYSTEM. The black wire that comes from the battery through the switch to chassis ground is the -(negative) side of the SYSTEM. Think of the manual switch as a safety "breaker" and the controller as a receiver-operated solenoid switch. Technically, the manual switch could be omitted, because the controller doesn't let current flow to the plugs unless the throttle is within the 'set' position, or the manual toggle on the Tx is on, and if the Rx is off, so is the glow controller; I wouldn't recommend not using the mechanical switch, though.
I have two of these systems and they work flawlessly. I hooked mine up to a 3-way toggle on my Tx (9C Futaba), and use that one switch for both glow and throttle cut. The middle position is throttle-normal, glow automatic(comes on when throttle is below set point). Up position is throttle-normal, glow-manual ON (overrides automatic), and down position is glow-automatic, throttle-cut-ON. Even with the glow energized, when the throttle cut is activated, the engine will still quit immediately. If you want manual only, the down and middle positions can be glow-off, and the up position glow-on. I find that for a single cylinder application, a pair of 1000 mAh NiMH batteries in parallel give plenty of juice, and I can fly a couple of days before needing to recharge them, and I fly with the glow on most of the time with my floatplane (lots of low throttle over water, don't want to have to swim after a deadstick
)
I have two of these systems and they work flawlessly. I hooked mine up to a 3-way toggle on my Tx (9C Futaba), and use that one switch for both glow and throttle cut. The middle position is throttle-normal, glow automatic(comes on when throttle is below set point). Up position is throttle-normal, glow-manual ON (overrides automatic), and down position is glow-automatic, throttle-cut-ON. Even with the glow energized, when the throttle cut is activated, the engine will still quit immediately. If you want manual only, the down and middle positions can be glow-off, and the up position glow-on. I find that for a single cylinder application, a pair of 1000 mAh NiMH batteries in parallel give plenty of juice, and I can fly a couple of days before needing to recharge them, and I fly with the glow on most of the time with my floatplane (lots of low throttle over water, don't want to have to swim after a deadstick
)
