mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

I have been looking all over the net for a new electric starter.

When I got into RC Airplanes I bought a Hobbico torque master 90 starter. 4 batteries later and a 1 or 2 more of the same starter.
LHS has them in stock always.
I have gone to larger planes and 3-D type flying mostly needing better power to weight numbers
Hobbico 90 just will not turn over a new Saito 100. No way YS160, Saito 200 t....scale plane. The 90 starter has some wear I am sure, and probably needs yet another battery but time to upgrade. Not big on chicken stick starting...can/must do lately but want my electric back. Not big enough for a glove.... I don't think anyhow. I have not tried that yet. 7 slices to the finger bone a few years back makes me very wary
Do not want to roll a battery cart out just yet..... modify a car starter...Not that big....60-1.50 with nitro engines 100 or larger so far

Am I missing something comparing these two
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=SUL603
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFT88&P=ML

About decide on this unless someone has a better suggestion....available in the USA. I have found better across the pond. Do not want to pay a fortune in shipping. Can't find a Kavan or Magnum here. Probably is I just can't google it up.
Not sure which is best yet anyhow??

Thanks
Michael

Herb Brown

My Feedback: (1)

I suggest that you take a serious look at Sullivan starters. They cost more than the starters that you mention, but they are well worth it. The Dynatron starter is a very strong one.
I agree that hand starting engines can be hazardous. Starters are cheaper than a trip to the local emergency room to patch up fingers.
Take care.

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

Yea, I think I have decided that.

Did you look at the two URL's? 69.99 at Tower for a Sullivan Dynatron and unless I am missing some difference 120.34 for the same starter at Horizon.
I posted because I think I must be missing something. Web sites are not usually very; if any; different with the prices.
Torque specs are the same 12v and 24v
Tower says it will start up to 25%..1/4 scale
Horizon say it will start up to 2.5 CI..

Looks like the same starter to me but I wanted to see if someone knows something I don't.

saramos

I was in a similar situation. I also had the Hobbico starter and found that it was not up to the task of turning my RCV engine. A fellow at the field had a Sullivan Megatron with a car battery. While it turned the engine with ease, it was huge and very expensive. I ended up getting the Sullivan Dynatron and am able to turn my RCV with my original 12 volt gel-cell. I will probably still look into getting a better battery though.

Scott

flatspins1

Definatly go for the Sullivan Dynatron.
I`ve had mine for 3+ years and it`s still as good as new.
It will start a 90 size heli and my Saito 180 without any trouble at all(and that`s on 12v)
Use it on 24v and it will probably start a tractor[sm=lol.gif]

Flatspins

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

the one for sale at Horizon or the one for sale at Tower??

see links above. That is my only question now. Is the one at Horizon better..different or just a miss in pricing.

Thanks
Michael

parrthd

the only thing i can see is the manf. stock numbers. the one at horizon is SU603 and the one at tower is S603. i am e-mailing sullivan now to see if the can determine the difference for us. (i'm doing this as i'm about to purchase a starter upgrade myself)

i'll post the answer whenever sullivan returns my email.

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

I looked at Sullivan products myself...when I found it finally.
Looks to me like they only offer 6 starters and the dynatron model is the dynatron model. No better dynatron model available.
Want more buy the next step up megatron model that will start 130cc motors, 8 CI Impessive indeed.

Bounced all over on Sullivans dealer locator page; and some of my favorites; looking at prices. around $70.00 is what the dynatron cost everywhere.

I sent Horizon an e-mail asking why the extra $$ myself. I think they made a mistake but we will see from one of us whats up.
I will also post Horizons respose.

I am pondering the ni-cad pack that can be bought for it. Any thoughts on that. No wires would be nice and easy.

and by the way my LHS said two weeks from next order day next week.

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

From Horizon

"Michael,
Good morning! I check with purchasing and they lowered our price to $89.99. Hope this helps. Feel free to let me know if there is anything else I can help you with."

I did let her know the price is still higher than everyone else.

On a personal note it bothers me. Over the years I have developed a trust with Horizon. I assumed the 120.34 was a mistake. Now with the adjustment in price still high. Feels like they are looking to make an extra profit from trusting customers .
I know its just 20 bucks but that is not the point.

On a positive note I am now pretty good with my homemade chicken stick that was free. No wires.

parrthd

well they've had a solid day and still no response from sullivan so i'm still waiting. if they don't want to return an e-mail from a prospective customer, i might start looking at a different brand of starter!!! LOL

parrthd

ok sullivan sent a response today, here's the message - both what i asked and what they said. looks like i'll be getting one from toewr hobbies..........LOL

Dear Mr. Layton:
Your best bet would be to go with Hobbico price. We think that
Horizon's
ad was a misprint. You may even want to call Horizon to see what the
price really is and take it from their. Thank you for your interest and
use of Sullivan Products. Thank you.
Sincerely,
Maureen

Kevin Layton wrote:

> dear sirs,
>
> i am currently looking to upgrade my current starter.
> i have mostly settled upon a sullivan dynatron as i
> have started getting into larger scale engines.
>
> my question is this: the dynatron starter tower
> hobbies has on their page is referenced by a sullivan
> stock number of S603 with a price of 69.99 next is
> horizon hobbies, this website references a sullivan
> stock number of SUL603 with a price of 120.34
>
> can you shed some light on the differences between
> these two starters as i cannot seem to find any major
> differences myself.
>
> thanks in advance for the assistance.




now what do you guys think? horizon might me getting their cake and eating it too?

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

I bought the Sullivan Dynatron from Tower.
The lady representing Horizon never aswered my inquiry into why Horizons Dynatron is still higher than everyone else.

Just bugs me. I suggest to new folks in my club to buy once..if they can afford it get the best, one time. I have written down Horizons web site many times for folks. Will not suggest then anymore. No telling where else their prices are inflated. I do not usually research items as I did this starter.

If a search brings you to this thread the Sullivan Dynatron at Horizon is NOW 89.99...go to Tower or almost any other site and buy it for 69.99..best if your hobby shop can get it for you.

Dauntae

I got a Kaven before they jacked the prices for $25 about 2 yrs ago and use two 7.2v RC car batteries (14.4v)and this little thing spins my Saito 150 over like no tomorrow and my Moki 135 with no problem and that Moki won't spin on any other starter the guys at the field have tried. You can still get it here http://www.hobby-lobby.com/kavan.htm but it goes for about $55 now but I would get another in a heartbeat. It amazes me how we get into this hobby and a 40 size is all we need ans one day we decide to try a 60 size and now the 60 size is my smaller planes LOL when does the maddness end? [sm=bananahead.gif]

Dauntae

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

Went with the Tower Hobbies priced Sullivan Dynatron.

Not sure how big a motor it will spin, but it spins my current larger 4 bangers without a stutter. Battery is my weak point
12 v DC 7a Gel.

Still wanting cordless but have yet to dicided on how I want to do that. Not real sure about the offering from Sullivan. Not real important. Have time to look and maybe fabricate my own.

Impresssive motor with loads of torque in this Sullivan Dynatron starter.

Its all good.
Now I am confident in my flipping...especially back flipping against compression. Instant most every time and now I have a mighty electric starter.

Hopefully I will never need bigger.

Thanks everyone for your input.
Michael

scratchonly

I have a 25 year old sullivan. It starts my saito 120 with no problem with a 7 AH 12V PROPERLY CHARGED gel cell. Only problem was the switch sticking but easy to clean up contacts. Prime your engine properly, good glow heat and it's easy. Be sure your battery wiring in your field box is heavy enough.

Rodney

The Kavan is still a very good starter, I prefer it to most others. Even though it is smaller than most, it has more power than most: it will easily start a G26 gas engine and any 1.6 or smaller glow engine with power to spare. I've even started my Quadra 41 with it.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

I use a Sullivan standard starter with a 12V gel cell and its good enough for all my engines up to a Saito 150. The trick is to turn the prop by hand CW until it hits compression, and then apply the starter CCW. The momentum is enough to carry the prop through the compression cycle and start the engine.

rcfury

My Feedback: (5)

I have the pacific aero models starter which is by the way almost identical to the KAVAN starter. Its a geared starter which gives it a lot of torque to start motors. The best part its really small do it dont take a lot of space in the flight box. Using the optional 2 rc car battery pack in series adapter it can turn over my saito 125 even on its compression cycle.

I also placed another connector on the orginal cord, so if these batteries suddenly die i can still hook it up to the power panel. If you were al wondering these are the new EC3 connectors from e-flite. Very nice if you wanted to know.

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

I bought the Sullivan starter, then really decided I wanted a cordless. Bought the Sullivan PowerPac and 12 sub c sanyo batteries...
the ones suggested for it by Tower.
Assembled the thing and nothing.
After a little troubleshooting it was apparant that tightening the nuts and bolts that hold the case togther and to the starter caused the batteries to lose connection.
Take the pac off and hold the batteries down by hand and it works.
I am a modeler so I know how to make things work....usually... I used tape, carbon flat rods, stryo, balsa...no matter what I tried; to hold the batteries in place; when I attached the pac with batteries it is dead.
The way its made keeps the possibility of shrink wrapping nearly impossible.
Needs those c sized plastic tube battery holder inserts. Could solder and shrink wrap 4 sets of 3 batteries but ...
Sending it all back.
Searching again.
Kavan sounds really good in this thread but its actual top spec of a 4 stroke 90 worries me.

da Rock

Just got the Dynatron and powerpack and SubCCells from Tower. Assembled as shown and it works excellent. Been using it for a couple of weeks. First day out, one of the guys saw it and ordered his that night. Good old Tower had it to him in 3 days. His worked great from the gitgo too. Excellent package.

What I like beyond the obvious is that with those NiCd batteries, I can hook the Triton up and get a full charge without any effort at all. The blasted lead battery was a pain. Never knew if it was fully charged or not. It always seemed to read the same voltage and no real way to do anything but keep checking for heat when it was hooked up on that wallwart. With this Dyanatron and it's SubC's I can plug it in, press the button, and walk away. Gotta remember to look back sometime later is all. Love it.

da Rock

mblue2050,
I gotta think that the pac you got was somehow defective. When I was assembling mine, the batteries wanted to pop up UNTIL I placed the top on. Soon as the top was in place, the battery sets were pushed back into alignment. If I were you, I'd call Tower and explain you think the pac is defective. Chances are good they'll send you a new one.

With mine, the lid of the pac very lightly snapped in place but it was obvious that the design expected the lid to be held down by the pass through attachment screws. The lid would hold the batteries in place but not for very long. I'd guess the tabs in the pac and the amount they're bent in is the critical detail.

Before I sent it back, I would try something else first. If there is so much compression that the batteries are pushed out of alignment then you might simply bend the end tabs in the pac in a bit.

heli_Rod

Only thing I can add about starters is if you buy a quality Sullivan starter, you won't need another for many many years. A sullivan is the only thing I can get to crank over my OS .91 SZ-H Hyper w60M-C Carb! I also have Ace and a Hobbico starters. They are good up to .60 size, but they won't thump over the .91!

Spend the money for a Sullivan if you can afford it. They are worth the money. Also from what I've seen at the field this past year, the guys who bought the geared sub-C powered starters have all gone back to regular starters. They just didn't hold up very well and are VERY noisy.

My 2 cents worth...

Rod

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

I suspect a bad plastic too. Not enough material, old die..whatever. I hope mine is the only one.
It obviously does not connect together tight enough to hold the batteries in place.
Tower always comes through correcting any problems with the products they sell.

I tried bending the tabs, I tried attaching it not real tight, as I said I tried adding material over the top of the batteries to hold 'em in place. I actualy got it to work for a few times. Pleased and off to to the field where it lost connection agin.... annoying at the field.

Good 'ol home made chicken stick still works.

I agree the Sullivan Dynatron is probably the best for the size motors I run. It did fine with my 12 volt gel cell. Cut the wire short and soldered on the connections per the new powerpac directions and the problems began.

Have to say I did not like the switch, had to search for it...used to how the Torque Master switch is made. Took my voltmeter to convince me I had not damaged the switch when it failed agin and again. No volts at the connectors each time.