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A few questions from a newbie

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Old 01-15-2003, 04:38 PM
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Deadeye
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Default A few questions from a newbie

Hi guys,
I'm fairly new to this wonderful hobby (September 2002), and can usually get through questions on my own, but there are a few that I just can't seem to grasp:

1) On my Futaba 6XA, they talk about trim memory in the book. I have messed with it a little, but when I enter the memory, and then move the trim back to nuetral, it messes up the trim on my 4 star 60. Do I need more than one model in memory for this to work?

2) The first kit I built was/is a Sporstster 60 from Great Planes. It's almost done, but I think I goofed the tail a little, I think my horizontal stab has about 1/2 degree of incidence when the plans call for 0 degrees. Will this little discrepency cause a crash? Or can it be alleviated with trim? Also, it seems the ailerons are a little small for this size plane. Anyone know from experience if those little things are enough? My 4*'s ailerons are twice as wide.

3) One of the most experienced members in my club mixes and matches Hitec and Futaba recievers, and servos and has so for years with no problems. Can you also mix the crystals? A Futaba crystal in a Hitec reciever?

4) I see L shaped rods coming out of the needle valve assembly on a lot of engines. I know they are there for easier adjustment. My question is can that be added to most needle valves, or is that something that has to be factory installed? If they can be added, how?

5) Will true silicone be eaten by glow fuel? I read a post where a guy uses clear true (not latex) silicone for his canopies. Is this a good idea?

6) Prop tightening. Whenever I go to tighten a prop, especially on 60 size engines, the nose cone plate moves, making it not mate with the cone itself. How in the heck can you tighten the darn thing without things moving? How tight is tight?

7) Can most engines be modified for remote needle valves? If so, how?

I really appreciate any answers to my questions, and for your time in reading and replying to my post. Thanks.
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Old 01-15-2003, 05:41 PM
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Default A few questions from a newbie

About the only question I can help you with for sure is the crystals. They can NOT be mixed. Hitec and Futaba use a different system internal to the rx.
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Old 01-15-2003, 05:55 PM
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Default A few questions from a newbie

1/2* incidence can be trimmed out.

Many needle valves have a hole in the end and a set screw in the side, so you can stick anything that fits in there.

If you figure out a way to keep everything from moving while tightening a prop without having 5 or 6 hands, let us all know

Modifying an engine for a remote needle valve woulf require a kit. Check with your engines MFGer.
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Old 01-15-2003, 06:24 PM
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Default A few questions from a newbie

Your questions cover a range of areas, you might be better off by splitting them up and posting in the appropriate forums. Or just look, the answers might already be there..

However, here's my attempt:

1. My main radio is a JR XF631 so I can't be specific. Your radio has 6 memories and the settings for each model should be separate including the trims if the radio has electronic trims. The fact that you've only got 1 plane programmed in shouldn't make any difference.

2. Can't see that 1/2 degree would make much difference...did did you measure 1/2 degree? Haven't built a Sportser, so can't comment on the ailerons. They're probably adequate, you might just need more throw for the same effect. This probably means that the Sportster is more stable and less responsive in rolls and turns.

3. The crystal issue has been discussed to death elsewhere. You MUST use the same make and type of crystal as the receiver. eg a Hitech Dual conversion crystal in a Hitech dual conversion receiver. Generally, you just need to be sure that the Tx and Rx are compatible. eg a JR Tx will not work with a Futaba Rx.

4. The needle valve knobs on my OS LA's have a small grub screw in the side and a hole in the middle. This means that you can use some sort of extension such as a small allen key to adjust the needle if the engine is in a cowl and the needle would otherwise be inaccessible. If your's doesn't have this then you would need to get a new needle. You might not be able to get a new needle (with the hole) without getting a new carb. In short, if the engine isn't enclosed forget it.

5. Haven't the foggiest.

6. It's a bugger that, innit? Plastic spinner usually have pins on the back plate that the prop is supposed to rest against. You just need to hold everything together until the prop is reasonably tight, then when you tighten further the prop and back plate won't move in relation to each other. How tight? As tight as you feel comfortable going. I use a 6" adjustable wrench and lever the handle in line with the prop blade. Due to the direction of the thread, the only time you should have problems with the prop coming loose is when use use a starter on it.

7. Some come as standard, some have conversion kits available. If yours is an older engine, and the new engine has it you might be able to put the new carb on. Then you've got to find somewhere to attach the remote. If you're going for performance, some would say that a remote needle doesn't help.

Hope some of that helps...
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Old 01-15-2003, 06:42 PM
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Default A few questions from a newbie

For # 1, on the 6XA(s) - for your model, after flying and trimming it out, go into the trim memory, activate the set (I believe by hitting the + and - at the same time, then exit config. You should now be able to set the trim levers to neutral and the model should be trimmed properly. It wasn't clear from the question if you were trying to fly multiple airplanes from one model config. If so, each airplane really needs it's own model to set up properly, or the trims will be off on all but one of your planes. The idea is to be able to keep the trims on the tx neutral while switching models so you don't have to mark or remember the exact settings. Works great for me, just wish I had a function to re-trim for temp changes. I was surprised how much difference it can make this weekend (approx 15F) when I flew a plane I hadn't flown since summer (85F).

Oh well, hope this helps

JS
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Old 01-16-2003, 09:13 AM
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Default The ole' prop and spinner slide...

Seems that most of your questions have been answered except how to keep the spinner lined up while tighting the prop. Here's what I do:

Cut 2 disks out of some medium-grit sandpaper about the same size as the prop hub. Glue them together paper to paper so you have two-sided sandpaper. Cut a hole in the center for the crankshaft and put this between the spinner backplate and the prop.

Then tighten the prop nut carefully. Works for me!
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Old 01-16-2003, 05:07 PM
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Default A few questions from a newbie

Hey, thanks everybody for the plethora of information. Think I will go fly my newly built Sportster today. God, I hope it flys!
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