Treeseeker

My Feedback: (19)

Has anyone ever glassed the whole plane (wings/fuse)? I see that alot of guys glass the fuse but never hear of glassing the wings also. In a old Byron catalog I have they sold the "glassing kit" for the Eagle and the ad said that there was enough glass for the whole plane. Thanks for any help.

tonyc

My Feedback: (4)

I have seen them both ways. I also bought a finished Byron Pitts that was glassed and looked great on the ground.

If you LOVE to fly, you will have more fun with the plane not glassed. Lighter.

If its more important for you to have the WOW factor on the ground, by all means, build a hanger queen.

If it was my kit, I would cover with low temp covering and fly the heck out of it.

tonyc

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

I have built many Byron Kits professionally, and can tell you that I can glass and paint one with little weight penalty. The problem with econokote is that if gas gets under or through a seam there goes the bird. Use thinned finishing resin like west system, not Zap, to thick. Put on just enough resin the first time to sturate the glass. Let it set up. Go over it lightly with 320 wet or dry paper just to knock the fuzz off. Then apply a second coat of resin to fill the weave and squegee the excess off. Then fill with epxoy based primer (remember the thinner in some paint will attack the foam. You can either use latex paint or water based polyurethane paints such as what you find at Walmart or Nelson's Aircraft. Put the big Moki up front and go carve the sky up!! That plane was designed for a geared sixty, then a Quadra 35. A 3.2 would probably be to heavy for the landing gear to handle. Flying it on glow will stop the risk of gas leaking into the fuse and destroying it. If you are going to use gas then seal the foam both inside and out really good. Have fun with your Byron Pitts.
I have a Byron Staggerwing that has been glassed and painted and still weighs only 20 lbs. They say it should weigh between 19 and 20 pounds. It flies great on a Super Tiger 2500.
regards,
Gary Webb

swill

My Feedback: (17)

Gary,

I have a Byron Bonanza A-36 NIB... I've been holding off on building it for a while because I've wanted to glass it. many areas of the wing and stab have concave sections (like many small 'scallops', just like on the full size). (see pic)

How do I properly glass and more importantly, sand these sections after glassing? I'm afraid I won't be able to do all these fine areas - especially sand them. Do you have any tips?

the only thing I've glassed before was a foam canopy I made for a pattern plane.

Thanks for your guidance in advance,
Scott

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Scott, open the box! All the scaloop work is done in plastic that is glued over the foam control surfaces. Make sure you study the method of removing the plastic parts from the sheets. It is called scoring. You score the parts from either the front or back depending how the creases on the part runs, then just bend and the plastic will break on the score lines. As far as glassing the wing pannels, use epoxy resin and 1&1/2 oz. cloth. Do not use the lighter 3/4 oz. cloth!!! It will be to fragile and punch through when you pick it up. Ask me how I know this? Experience is a great teacher. The best is when the experience is someone elses and you learn from it. After priming, then apply pannel lines and rivits before final color. If you would like to see pictures of my Baron, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will send them to you. Goog luck, it is a gret flying plane. Also if you mess up Iron Bay can supply you with replacement parts.
Regards,
Gary Webb

Treeseeker

My Feedback: (19)

Hey Gary, would you also suggest glassing the wings on the Christen Eagle? If I did...would the Moki 2.10 fly the plane with good performance? I was hoping to put a gasser in it but don't know much about them (other than cheap to run). With the 16oz fuel tank that comes with it and a Moki 2.10 I might get two laps around the pattern . Where is Troy, Oh? I live near Cleveland.
Thanks,
Eric

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Yes Erik by all means glass the wings also! Make sure you are using 1&1/2 oz. cloth when covering the bare foam. The 3/4 oz. cloth normally used over sheeted surfaces is to fragil over the foam. You can easly punchure the glass just from handling. The heaver glass cloth will make a stronger surface.
Troy is 18 miles North of Dayton on I-75. It is the home of WACO aircraft, and the large troop gliders used in WWII. I would put a 24 oz. tank in it for either the Moki or a Gass engine. The Moki will fly the plane very well, good vertical. The airplane should weigh around 14-15 pounds with the Moki.
Just don't go over board with the primer and paint. I have a Pitts that is being redone. It is glassed all over. The paint is being removed so I can check her out for problems,then she will get a new paint job and a Moki 2.1. Then I will go out and fly the heck out of it!
Gary

Treeseeker

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks for the info Gary! I think I'll end up going with the Moki 2.1 vs. the FPE 3.2 (52cc w/ 23 lbs thrust). Not sure of the weight or thrust with the Moki but the FPE 3.2 is at 3.6 lbs. I read that most guys that glass the Pitts-Eagle end up with a weight at or about 20-22lbs. My manual says between 16-18 (16 econokote / 18 glassed) but that was back in the old days . Do you have a smoke pump in yours? You do know...that it is against the law to fly a Pitts or Eagle without a smoke pump don't you? :devious:

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Well I did not know that , I presently don't have smoke, I don't like the extra weight and the mess on the bottom of the fuse. It also eats up the paint job. I do however like seeing smoke on these models. Last year at the XFC held here in Troy, some of the competitors had smoke so dense they could almost lose a 42 % airplane in the smoke while they hovered. Frank Noll Jr. has told me they are planning on having another this year. A must see for TOC fans. All they fly are the free style maneuvers to music.