mcoccia

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I bought some Titebond III to fix a draw in my kitchen. Can it be used on a ARF plane. I was thinking maybe instead of Epoxy this could be used instead....not sure though.


Thanks

FallDownGoBoom

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I've used Titebond III for general construction of wing ribs/spars, fuse formers, sheeting, etc., but not for things like firewalls, joining wings, etc. I still use epoxy on those joints, although I've also been using polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Wood Glue or Gorilla Glue) for some of them. I like the fact that the polyurethanes expand so there are no gaps in the glue joints, but it means that all the joints have to be solidly clamped, and that you have to make sure the glueing process doesn't twist parts out of alignment. The poly's also take longer to set up than epoxy, and you have to scape/sand any overflow if there's a second joint, or another part needs to be fitted.

I'm not sure about Titebond III vs. Titebond II or yellow carpenters glue. TB III is more expensive, maybe somebody else can shed some light on if it's stonger. But I wouldn't use any of these where I'd normally put epoxy.

Herb Brown

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I had been using Titebond II for a long time with good success as a general construction adhesive except I did not use it for firewalls as epoxy is likely a better choice.
Recently, I have been using Titebond III instead of Titebond II. I like it because it develops a fast tack, sands well and flows into joints and wood grain better than any aliphatic resin glue that I used previously. Produces very strong joints, but you need to eliminate any "daylight" in joints since it does not bridge over gaps as well as the thicker versions of aliphatic resin glues.