andrew66

hey, i was wondering if i built a wing using pink foam as ribs (with balsa capstrips) would the use of koverall and dope mess anything up? how about sig stix it?

bps

My Feedback: (3)

Since both (stix it and dope) are solvent based, you would have blue gue! You could use Polyacrylic (water based) from Minwax and Latex paints (also water based) to paint though. Use the Poly to atatch the Koverall and seal it, paint with latex. Do a search on Latex and or Polyacrylic and you will find a lot of information.

JEB

Pictures are Solartex and Latex with oil based Poly clear coat.

scratchonly

I use behr water based satin poly to attach Koverall all the time. Make a small sample with your ribs in a frame and experiment to perfect a system. I go over the outside perimeter with a medium heat iron after the poly is dry to ensure a proper seal then shrink covering before doing the ribs.

andrew66

is the water based stuff used the same way dope is when covering or is there a different way?
have you had any troubles with this system (as compared to the conventional way)
if it works as good as dope or stix it, i think that it is a very good idea to use it all the time due to the lower harmful fumes. even though im young and can probably "take" working with toxic chemicals, i would still like to eliminate as many as i can. Ive already switched from CA to alphatic resin for the same reason. the fumes never bothered me that much, but i will probably thank myself for doing this in 20 years

scratchonly

It is used the same way as dope. I don't use any stixit; I coat the perimeter with a wet brush, apply the koverall while wet and brush another coat thru the cloth around the perimeter. I sometimes rub the perimeter lightly with my finger. It takes longer to dry than dope, about 1/2 hour. On solid surfaces I do the same, attach the perimeter, seal with iron when dry and shrink before attaching the whole area. One advantage over dope is the new coat won't dissolve the underneath coat and pull away. PLEASE experimnt first. A quart should cost about 10 bucks and u will use far less. Most of the dope evaporates, especially if you thin it. First coat over an open area should be applied with a fairly dry brush to avoid puddling under the cloth, same as for dope. If you miss a spot lift the cloth a bit and apply some poly with a flat brush, let dry and iron down. For the initial perimeter I use a 1/2 inch flat brush, purchased at a craft store. following coats with a flat 1 inch stiff bristled brush. Mine has white bristles.

Good luck, call again if you have problems. Again, please experiment.

andrew66

i think im going to try this. does this poly have any offensive odors that might make the gf a little angry with me? I dont have a shop (just a spare room) and if this product "stinks" i will have to plan on doing this somewhere else[&o]

scratchonly

No offensive odor and does not hang around.