Preferred linkage for thottle?
01-23-2003, 02:53 PM
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Preferred linkage for thottle?
What type of linkage do you prefer when connecting a pushrod to the throttle arm on your glow engines?
I'm just looking for opinions. I'm using a standard plastic clevis on my Saito 100 and I'm looking for something that doesn't see to bind as much. Any suggestions?
I'm just looking for opinions. I'm using a standard plastic clevis on my Saito 100 and I'm looking for something that doesn't see to bind as much. Any suggestions?
01-25-2003, 06:50 PM
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Preferred linkage for thottle?
What I've done on my last few sport planes was just a piece of small, flexible, music wire with an "L" bend on the throtle end and straight on the other going into an EZ connector on the servo arm. Angle the throttle rod guide rod out of the fire wall so you get a little offset from straight line to the throttle arm. Bend the MW to stick the L into the throttle arm and the slight side tension on the MW will keep it there. Makes removing MW and/or engine a lot easier than a Z bend and it's simpler than a ball or clevis.
Clear as mud?
Joel
Clear as mud?
Joel
01-28-2003, 11:54 AM
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Preferred linkage for thottle?
After trying every method out there...I finally settled on what Joel described. I've been doing it that for about 5 years now...I wouldn't do it any other way!
01-28-2003, 02:36 PM
#11
Preferred linkage for thottle?
Flex cable/ball link.
CA the nut to the back of the throttle arm.
EZ connectors wobble and I can't get a consistent idle.
4-stroke: flex-cable from the servo to a metal clevis driving a bellcrank on the motor mount. Make the bellcrank from an extra servo horn. From the bellcrank use a metal clevis, metal pushrod, and ball link on the throttle arm.
CA the nut to the back of the throttle arm.
EZ connectors wobble and I can't get a consistent idle.
4-stroke: flex-cable from the servo to a metal clevis driving a bellcrank on the motor mount. Make the bellcrank from an extra servo horn. From the bellcrank use a metal clevis, metal pushrod, and ball link on the throttle arm.
01-31-2003, 01:29 PM
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Preferred linkage for thottle?
hey has anyone herd of this ! Not to use any metal to metal links ! only metal to pastic or pastic to metal ! such as throttle tang is normaly a metal lever ! you should not use a metal link to conect it to the push rod ! this was told to me from a pylon racer ! he said its due to high freqency vibration causing possible RX problems or other radio interferance ! is this something well kown or was he just voicing something that is personal opinion ?? 
01-31-2003, 02:06 PM
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Preferred linkage for thottle?
Originally posted by rjbarthel
hey has anyone herd of this ! Not to use any metal to metal links ! only metal to pastic or pastic to metal ! such as throttle tang is normaly a metal lever ! you should not use a metal link to conect it to the push rod ! this was told to me from a pylon racer ! he said its due to high freqency vibration causing possible RX problems or other radio interferance ! is this something well kown or was he just voicing something that is personal opinion ??
hey has anyone herd of this ! Not to use any metal to metal links ! only metal to pastic or pastic to metal ! such as throttle tang is normaly a metal lever ! you should not use a metal link to conect it to the push rod ! this was told to me from a pylon racer ! he said its due to high freqency vibration causing possible RX problems or other radio interferance ! is this something well kown or was he just voicing something that is personal opinion ??
01-31-2003, 02:47 PM
#15
Preferred linkage for thottle?
It's bad to have metal that can rattle against metal. The throttle linkage is particularly bad about this because of the vibration. I have had radio jitters just from touching a screwdriver to the carburetor.
When I suggested metal clevises, I should have said "SOLDERED" to a metal pushrod. The other end of the metal clevises I mentioned were in plastic. And the throttle arm should have a metal ball link which has a plastic socket that threads on to the pushrod. No metal-to-metal rattles in my linkage. That's why not to use an EZ connector on the throttle arm, and REALLY why not to use a z-bend on a metal throttle arm!
When I suggested metal clevises, I should have said "SOLDERED" to a metal pushrod. The other end of the metal clevises I mentioned were in plastic. And the throttle arm should have a metal ball link which has a plastic socket that threads on to the pushrod. No metal-to-metal rattles in my linkage. That's why not to use an EZ connector on the throttle arm, and REALLY why not to use a z-bend on a metal throttle arm!
