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  1. #1

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    Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    Has anyone used the Aero Gloss snading sealer from Midwest Products? I am finishing up a House of Balsa 1/12 scale P-51 and would like to finish the fuse without using iron on film. Can the sanding sealer be used with other types of fuel proof paint systems other than 'Dope'? I was told by many at the local club "yes"; Hobby Poxy etc.

    See, I would like to get the fuse like glass (I am pretty much there already) so when I paint it it has a permanent surface. The main wing will be monokoated (spelling?) and the tail surface will be painted as well. Thanks in advance, you all have been great help thus far.
    What goes up must come down (sometimes hard), so build a SPAD and save some cash, man.

  2. #2

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    I've used dope too many years ago when building control line planes in my teens. You'll hae to put on several coats, sanding between, then apply the color coat. I'm not sure about the compatibility. Why not just continue to use dope? The one big problem is you MUST let each coat THOROUGHLY dry. This may take from several days to a week or more to produce that glossy, true fuel-proof finiish.

    Why not glass it and poly-u it?

    Dr.1
    There\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'s a Hun in the sun!

  3. #3
    Campy's Avatar
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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    Without some type of covering, the balsa WILL "work" and eventually crack the paint.

    IF you insist on using dope, the most stable filler would be to mix regular talcum powder with clear dope (1/3 talc, 2/3 dope ) mix well and apply a coat. Let dry (anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks to completely dry ) , sand, and repeat until the grain if completely filled and smooth (typically 3 - 6 coats of filler ). Then apply your colored dope letting it completely dry between coats (typically 2++++ coats depending on the color ).

    As DR1 said, glass it. Use some .5 (1/2 ) oz glass cloth and adhere it with water base polyurethane. Fill the weave with a mix of micro-balloons and wb poly, sand, then prime, sand, prime again and paint. Easy to do, about 1/2 the weight of using resin and about 1/2 - 2/3 the weight of using a balsa filler, not to mention the wb poly dries in a couple of hours to overnight at the longest.

  4. #4

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    I've used the Aero Gloss sanding sealer and think it's great, I used automotive paint over it and have also used model paint. I like the way it sands and covers. Try a sample, then you will know for sure. ENJOY !!! RED

  5. #5

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    Well, I did use the Aero Gloss sanding sealer and got a pretty good finish, so I thought. It is extremely hard to use a clear substance on wood; the end result looks, and feels, like the "smoothness" has been achieved -- but there are some grain crevaces still, not bad though.
    I currently have the fuse hanging outside curing as I write this. What I did: Dupli-Color sandable primer; Dupli-white, and then Dupli-clear. I might also add that these paints are Acrylic-Lacquer formulas; I tested some out first to see how nitro proof the stuff is...pretty dang good. The fuse is white, wings will be red (film). I am going with a red, white and blue theme. It's almost time to go check on my work; I will post a picture when I return...

    Oh yeah, this is my forst ever build of an rc balsa plane. I have built numerous rubber band kits when younger... I have always built SPAD planes or ARF balsa.
    What goes up must come down (sometimes hard), so build a SPAD and save some cash, man.

  6. #6

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    Ok, here is the fuse with wing bolted on. There are a few flaws with how well the sealer actually sealed, but are not super easy to spot in the photos, but are in person. This P-51 is for aq .10 sized engine.
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    What goes up must come down (sometimes hard), so build a SPAD and save some cash, man.

  7. #7

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    Did you just use one coat of sealer or did you put a thin coat on then sand and put another coat on and sand ? ENJOY !!! RED

  8. #8

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    For the first couple of coats I applied them light, then worked my other series of coats a little thicker. I did sand between each coat to allow for the best possible look, but like I said, there are STILL(!) many visible areas of grain. I'm not to upset -- this is my first balsa rc build and I figured it would be one that would teach me new things (smile), which it did indeed.

    The power plant will be an O.S. .10LA. Works out great since I am goin with a red, white, and blue theme; the engine is blue, of course. The ailerons will be white along withe the tail control surfaces, basically white on red (red being the wing surfaces).

    My only reservation is crashing the dang thing! After putting so many hours/time into a plane, one REALLY cares (fears) more about crashing!
    What goes up must come down (sometimes hard), so build a SPAD and save some cash, man.

  9. #9

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    My only reservation is crashing the dang thing! After putting so many hours/time into a plane, one REALLY cares (fears) more about crashing!

    Ah...you DO have an instructor, right?

    Dr.1
    There\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'s a Hun in the sun!

  10. #10

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    I've flying for about four years now. This is just my 'first' rc kit out of balsa. I have built at least 10 SPAD planes, and six ARF balsa planes, along with several electric foam planes.

    My craziest plane is the SPAD 'gutter pipe scale' plane powered by a S.T. G-61. I say this because it is supposed to be powered by a 40-46 size engine; who says a SPAD isn't capable of 3-D (smile). Man, it really is a rocket ship!
    What goes up must come down (sometimes hard), so build a SPAD and save some cash, man.

  11. #11

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    RE: Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer...

    Just do a GOOD preflight and go fly it !!! I wouldn't say that if you hadn't said youv'e flown for years. Good luck ENJOY !!! RED


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