solder flux =acid
03-25-2003, 01:51 AM
#3
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solder flux =acid
What are you soldering? Are you using silver solder on push rods, landing gear, etc, or are you doing electrical/electronic soldering?
I do a lot of silver soldering and I have found the cleaning the solder joint with alcohol and a toothbrush seems to get all of the flux off and prevent corrosion on the joint. I also have this corrosion preventer called BeoShield that I got at the boat store. That may help too -- guess I'll have to try it...
I do a lot of silver soldering and I have found the cleaning the solder joint with alcohol and a toothbrush seems to get all of the flux off and prevent corrosion on the joint. I also have this corrosion preventer called BeoShield that I got at the boat store. That may help too -- guess I'll have to try it...
03-25-2003, 02:20 AM
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Acid core solder
Yes, acid core solder will cause piano wire, or any other steel to corrode. However if the joint is properly cleaned up after soldering, there is no problem at all. And I've found that I've had better luck using acid flux rather than just resin core solder.
The very best and fastest way to clean up after soldering IMO, is to low pressure bead blast the joints after soldering, but I realize that most of us don't have access to a bead blaster, so clean up by hand with a small wire brush and baking soda works well. The alkaline baking soda will help to neutralize any acid left over from soldering. See if you can get friendly with a shop that has a bead blaster, like a radiator shop. Take them doughnuts in exchange for use of they're equipment once in a while....it's amazing what you can do with a smile, some interesting model airplane parts, and a box of doughnuts!
Cheers, Nigel
The very best and fastest way to clean up after soldering IMO, is to low pressure bead blast the joints after soldering, but I realize that most of us don't have access to a bead blaster, so clean up by hand with a small wire brush and baking soda works well. The alkaline baking soda will help to neutralize any acid left over from soldering. See if you can get friendly with a shop that has a bead blaster, like a radiator shop. Take them doughnuts in exchange for use of they're equipment once in a while....it's amazing what you can do with a smile, some interesting model airplane parts, and a box of doughnuts!
Cheers, Nigel
03-27-2003, 06:47 PM
#5
solder flux =acid
I use a wire wheel on my Dremel. Cleans the flux off and burnishes the metal and solder to a lusterous finish. Makes a brass tube look like gold, at least for a while.
03-27-2003, 09:15 PM
#6
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solder flux =acid
Originally posted by Charlie P.
I use a wire wheel on my Dremel. Cleans the flux off and burnishes the metal and solder to a lusterous finish. Makes a brass tube look like gold, at least for a while.
I use a wire wheel on my Dremel. Cleans the flux off and burnishes the metal and solder to a lusterous finish. Makes a brass tube look like gold, at least for a while.
03-27-2003, 10:50 PM
#7
solder flux =acid
not soldering on brass or steel i'm talking about on wire , like servo leads or battery leads etc. . once you solder and put shrink tubing or what ever there is still flux in 6the joint and those wires are thin and small . i,m worried about the corrosion in there and how to avoid as every couple years i guess you have to check them or replace with new ? as i was wondering if any body else has run into this problem. i do use a non acid rosin core solder but i think it still will corrode.
03-27-2003, 11:47 PM
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solder flux =acid
rosin flux is used in electronics specifically because it won't corrode. i've worked on equipment 30+ years old and have seen joints with flux from whenever it was put on (some of it had to be from the factory) and i've never seen corrosion from the flux. acid flux will corrode, so don't use it for soldering wires together. you will have a better chance of "black wire disease" than rosin flux corroding.
03-27-2003, 11:51 PM
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OHHH...That Kind Of Wire...
Thought you were talking about piano wire...
I've never had a problem with corrosion at the joints of servo extensions etc, and I've been using the non-acid, electronics solder in this application of course...so far, so good.
I've never had a problem with corrosion at the joints of servo extensions etc, and I've been using the non-acid, electronics solder in this application of course...so far, so good.
03-28-2003, 02:57 AM
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solder flux =acid
I agree with foregoing on using rosin flux for electronic soldering. Been soldering electronic wire and componets for over 50 years and never had a problem with corrosion. You do not have to remove the rosin flux. Don't worry about it, enjoy!!
03-28-2003, 03:42 AM
#11
solder flux =acid
Ditto. I thought you were talking about silver-soldering, too. Electric solder is rosin core. Use the proper solder for the job. And, it gets stale after a few years. I was having a heck of a time getting a shiny job splicing some servo connector wires and finally went out and got a fresh spool of electronics solder. Presto! What a difference.
04-12-2003, 11:15 AM
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solder flux =acid
Rosen core is for electronics, Acid core is for everything else, Solid core can be used for either as long as you use the proper flux (Rosen or Acid). The purpose of the flux is to remove any impurities from the surface of the metal BEFORE the solder melts and binds to the surface. It does this by having a lower melting point than the solder.
Solder does not go bad over time (it's just lead and tin) however the fluz in the core can dry out and become ineffective, in this case you can apply additional flux from a bottle or a flux pen.
To prevent the flux in your solder (any type) from drying out simply squeeze the end of the solder closed with a pair of plyers before storing it.
All solder joints should be properly cleaned of any flux residue after soldering. Use baking soda and water for acid flux and alcohol (Everclear works very very very well) for resin flux.
All types of flux if left on the joint can cause corrosion over time, it's best to clean it now than pay for it later.
One quick note about Everclear, it's 98% pure. Cleaner than de-natured and cleans better. You can use it anywhere you would use Isopropyl or Denatured. It's a great cleaning solvent, leaves no residue, you can even use it to clean audio/video heads. It can be used to clean that cut on your finger. And if all else fails you can even use it for "medicinal purposes" after a crash
I look at it this way, if it's good enough for NASA to use as a cleaning solvent, it's good enough for me!
Solder does not go bad over time (it's just lead and tin) however the fluz in the core can dry out and become ineffective, in this case you can apply additional flux from a bottle or a flux pen.
To prevent the flux in your solder (any type) from drying out simply squeeze the end of the solder closed with a pair of plyers before storing it.
All solder joints should be properly cleaned of any flux residue after soldering. Use baking soda and water for acid flux and alcohol (Everclear works very very very well) for resin flux.
All types of flux if left on the joint can cause corrosion over time, it's best to clean it now than pay for it later.
One quick note about Everclear, it's 98% pure. Cleaner than de-natured and cleans better. You can use it anywhere you would use Isopropyl or Denatured. It's a great cleaning solvent, leaves no residue, you can even use it to clean audio/video heads. It can be used to clean that cut on your finger. And if all else fails you can even use it for "medicinal purposes" after a crash
I look at it this way, if it's good enough for NASA to use as a cleaning solvent, it's good enough for me!
04-13-2003, 12:03 AM
#14
solder flux =acid
everclear ? never heard of it . i do a/c installs and service as well as heating and do alt of soldering and clean is the only way to solder as your hands are oily always its the worst thing to do after cleaning is touch with your hands. everclear ? i have soldered allot and can lay down a pretty nice solder joint but flux has always troubled me as i could solder 5 joints on wire shrink wrap and a years or so down the road , open up these solder joints and one or sometimes more are all green with corrosion. they will fail ! so whats up some good perfect and wamo 1 bad? flux and cleaning up after .when wire is heated flux travels with the heat before the solder and its up into the insulating covering. is there a flux or a way to be 1% sure !
04-13-2003, 12:06 AM
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Non-acid flux
If you want to solder steel wire for things like landing gear and pushrods go to Home Depot and look for the "Oatey" brand solder and flux. The "H-20" tinning flux is water soluble and non-acidic. It is designed specifically for use with Oatey's "Safe-Flo" silver lead-free solder which you can buy in as small as 1/4 lb. roll. This is a high-temp solder so a small propane torch is recommended for getting enough heat. It does produce the strongest silver solder joint I've found to date and is very easy to use. I've not had any corrosion problem at all after just wiping the finished joint off with a damp towel to remove any remaining flux.
04-15-2003, 06:44 AM
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solder flux =acid
tbone4343:
Everclear aka 98% pure grain alcohol, check your local liquor store , as for copper wire corrosion the only way I know to prevent it completely is to make the joint totally air tight. How ever you can keep it to a minimum by cleaning the wire before you tin it, use only enough solder to tin the exposed portion of wire, clean the wire and the joint again, attach the wire to whatever you are soldering it to making sure you have a good mechanical connection, clean the joint/wire again, clip off the end (about 1/4 inch) of the solder (this opens up end of the solder so the flux flows freely), clean the solder, clean and tin the hot (600 degrees) soldering iron, apply the iron to one side of the joint and then solder to the other "(the iron will heat the entire joint before the solder melts), use only enough solder to make a good connection, remove the solder then the iron, clean the joint again and wipe off any residue. Apply the sealer of your choice (heatshrink, conformal coating, etc),
If this sounds like a lot of work just to solder a wire on, your right! But this is the process used on any solder joint that goes into space. Do I use this process everytime on my own stuff, no. But I do use most of it and I've never had a corrosion problem due to a dirty solder joint. Acid corrosion, now that's another story.
CurtD:
Oops, I forgot about silver solder. This is by far the strongest type of joint. You are very correct, use this where the need for strength is king.
Everclear aka 98% pure grain alcohol, check your local liquor store
, as for copper wire corrosion the only way I know to prevent it completely is to make the joint totally air tight. How ever you can keep it to a minimum by cleaning the wire before you tin it, use only enough solder to tin the exposed portion of wire, clean the wire and the joint again, attach the wire to whatever you are soldering it to making sure you have a good mechanical connection, clean the joint/wire again, clip off the end (about 1/4 inch) of the solder (this opens up end of the solder so the flux flows freely), clean the solder, clean and tin the hot (600 degrees) soldering iron, apply the iron to one side of the joint and then solder to the other "(the iron will heat the entire joint before the solder melts), use only enough solder to make a good connection, remove the solder then the iron, clean the joint again and wipe off any residue. Apply the sealer of your choice (heatshrink, conformal coating, etc),If this sounds like a lot of work just to solder a wire on, your right! But this is the process used on any solder joint that goes into space. Do I use this process everytime on my own stuff, no. But I do use most of it and I've never had a corrosion problem due to a dirty solder joint. Acid corrosion, now that's another story.
CurtD:
Oops, I forgot about silver solder. This is by far the strongest type of joint. You are very correct, use this where the need for strength is king.
