zbo2

i'm trying to thread some .072 wire with a 2-56 die. the wire is threaded on one end and i need to shorten the wire and re-thread the other end. however when i do this the threads are to thin in diameter and the clevis will just pull out. is this the correct diameter (.072 ) for the 2-56 threads? even though the wire is threaded correctly with the factory threads i am having no luck trying to do the other end. i have tried to adjust the die with no luck....
thanks

Bill Teller

It won't work I miked a 2-56 rod & it's .072 but the threads are .081 OD . The threads are what is called roll theaded & instead of cutting the threads it squishes them up from the basic wire size U need to start with a larger wire to cut threads in it.
Have fun
Bill Teller

alan0899

G"day Mate,
As Bill said it won't work, that's why Dubro make threaded couplers, cut wire to length, solder on threaded coupler & screw clevis or ball link on to coupler & away you go.
Dubro Part # 212, see here, http://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=212/101.0

zbo2

ok that all makes sense now...........i have to look for a larger wire diameter if that's the way i want to go. or get the solder clevises or threaded ends.

flipstart

Bicycle spokes are the correct diameter for threading 2-56 rods-picked up a junked bike at a collection site for $2 and robbed the spokes out of wheels-they are just right hardness and thread well, you are limited in length to spoke length, threads are 2-56 but wrong TPI. Also the brake cables make great throttle flex cables, they are more flexible than ones you buy. Now thats scrounging. Good Luck.

Dsegal

See http://www.rodchuck.com/

g-rock

My Feedback: (1)

Zobo2
From Unbrako, makers of high quality socket head cap screws, the body diameter for a #2-56 UNC is .086". But most of the time when you measure a #2-56 screw, it will be .002 to .005" under. This is true of almost all bolts including aircraft hardware like the AN series.
Gene

Rodney

Be careful on the bicycle spokes, all are not the same diameter nor are they all the same thread. Also some are necked down after the thread and some are not.

zbo2

thanks dave
i got all the info i need off that site...........i had the music wire..........thought it was to hard....lol looks like a good product too.....

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

The rodchuck seems to be the best solution, except that you can't use all of those scraps of rod left over in the shop.

I went with a carbon fiber tube.
It lets me use the 2/56 threaded, or the 4/40 unthreaded and threaded rod scraps.
Cut it to lenght and epoxy. Voila [X(]

Midwest #5721 is shown here on my OMP 80" Giant Scale Edge.
ID is 4mm(.157), and OD is 2.5mm(.098)
Here's a link --> [link=http://www.midwestproducts.com/item_detail.asp?item_id=443]Carbon Tube[/link]

The second picture is a section of the cf tube with an all threaded 4/40 rod in one end, which is tight going in,
and a piece of non threaded 4/40 rod in the tube, that has threads on the other.
I just have lots of these laying around, and it's handy for me.

Just epoxy and go!
I use it on everything, including my 35% stuff.

Good luck
Bob

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Sorry for the picture quality [:@]

Time for a new camera...

zbo2

hey bob..............
that does seem like a good alternative, i'm gonna have to give that a try. lighter i'm sure but is the CF a lot more expensive?

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

I guess you're right about that.
It was just easier for me to get the tube than the rodchuck and welding rod.

So, where do you fly?

zbo2

downstown.......just like you i'm sure.....you are the pres. aren't ya....or do i have somebody else?

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

You got it!

Just don't know exactly who you are?