racer504

My Feedback: (2)

What is the proper method to get Ultracote (or any other plastic covering) over another layer without the bubbles?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

A lot depends on the size of the overlay. If it's really big, your best set is to remove a lot of the under layer. If it's smaller, you can poke LOTS of holes in the under layer.

You can also try starting at one end and "Squeegie-ing" the air out with the iron as you go.

If you do get a bubble or two, poke the covering with a pin and go over it with the iron again.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

You can also use the windex method but it takes a LOOOOONNNGGG time. You lay the covering out cold with windex over and under it. squeegie out the bubbles and let dry. Once dry you can lightly heat the edges down. Most often I use a combo of the last two things Minn mentioned. I stick down one end of the stripe or whatever it is. Then hold the other end up and work the iron ,with a sock on it, back and forth over the stripe moving the iron forward about 1/16" at a time. When done if you have a few bubbles. Get a new small "T" pin or sharp needle. Heat lightly with your heat gun. When the bubble starts to heat it will blow up with air. Hit the bubble with the pin and it will dissapear. In the shop you will see the bubble outline. In the sun you wont. Like Minn said if it is a large area a bunch of holes in the base coat will help. I mark the area with a dry erase marker and use a Wood pecker to make the holes. A friend of mine took a 1" square balsa block and pushed 25 or so "T" pins through it. It makes the holes in short order. Be sure to wipe of the dry erase marker before you apply heat.

David

racer504

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the suggestions. I guess the bubbles are inevitable, it,s just getting the right things done to deal with them. What I'm doing is recovering a 33% Edge to make it look like a Red Bull aerobatic plane. So I have some striping to deal with but I also have 2-22" half circles to put on the wing and 2-12" circles on the tail. I have found that you can keep the bubbles to a bare minimum by setting the iron to about 170 degrees and move slowly. It will heat the adhesive enough to make it stick to the covering. There will still be a few bubbles I stuck them with the point of a #11 blade and heated them with a trim iron set on high. I was wondering how thw manufacturer got the original covering on without bubbles? Since the plane has large open bays on the side of the fuse they were double covered but no bubbles. There must be a way

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Racer, when I do a fuse side with open bays. I lay it out on a sheet of glass with a 1/4" overlap. I stick the two sheets together on the glass. You must use a high heat for this and make sure the backing is off. The glass wicks the heat out of the covering is the reason for the higher heat. Then I put the whole thing on as one piece. This works great on a straight line. It will work on a circle also. It just takes time. I have not done one but I once did a 4 color camo job for a guy. It had round edges. I layed the whole wing panel out on glass and stuck it together. Then moved the whole thing on the wing and covered as normal. This does however take a lot of time. You should think about using vinal. If you can find the right color for the circle you could lay it down wet with Dawn and water. Once it dries you would be done.

David