Soldering Question????
#1
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Soldering Question????
My reciver battery wire snaped!
i need to know how to soldier another wire back on the battery.
how do you pull and put in the plug in device?.....
could i use a used plug in thing that plugs in your channel reciver.
how would i take it off and put it back on???/
p.s- is their a special techniq for soldering
-nick
i need to know how to soldier another wire back on the battery.
how do you pull and put in the plug in device?.....
could i use a used plug in thing that plugs in your channel reciver.
how would i take it off and put it back on???/
p.s- is their a special techniq for soldering
-nick
#2
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Soldering Question????
Nick, from what I gather, you pulled on the wires to remove the plug from the reciever. Bad juju.
Usually you can get a new plug and wires, (assembled), from your LHS. If you have one you'll need the following to do the job:
-a soldering pencil or iron, (guns can be unweildy for this kind of work)
-60/40 rosin core solder
-very small, (dia.), heat shrink tubing
Cut the wires to the appropriate length. Be careful not to short the batt. leads. Strip the ends of the wires about 3/16". Slide on about a 3/4" piece of heat shrink on to each wire one set of the wires. Place the heated iron carefully on each of the four ends separately, (keeping the heat shrink away from where you are working), and touch the wire with the solder untill it starts soaking into the wire. Remember to use as little solder as necessary-the heatshrink has to go over it. Once the ends are tinned, hold the two red ends together and apply the iron. When it looks like they have molded together the joint is done. Do the same with the black leads.
Slide the heatshrink over the solder joints and gently heat with a match, lighter, or heatgun. When the heatshrink has shrunk you're done.
BTW, if you have little or no soldering experience, practice on spare wires before attempting it on the actual airborne equipment.
Usually you can get a new plug and wires, (assembled), from your LHS. If you have one you'll need the following to do the job:
-a soldering pencil or iron, (guns can be unweildy for this kind of work)
-60/40 rosin core solder
-very small, (dia.), heat shrink tubing
Cut the wires to the appropriate length. Be careful not to short the batt. leads. Strip the ends of the wires about 3/16". Slide on about a 3/4" piece of heat shrink on to each wire one set of the wires. Place the heated iron carefully on each of the four ends separately, (keeping the heat shrink away from where you are working), and touch the wire with the solder untill it starts soaking into the wire. Remember to use as little solder as necessary-the heatshrink has to go over it. Once the ends are tinned, hold the two red ends together and apply the iron. When it looks like they have molded together the joint is done. Do the same with the black leads.
Slide the heatshrink over the solder joints and gently heat with a match, lighter, or heatgun. When the heatshrink has shrunk you're done.
BTW, if you have little or no soldering experience, practice on spare wires before attempting it on the actual airborne equipment.
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Soldering Question????
I have to disagree with the method above. A good solder joint depends on a good mechanical connection first before the solder is applied. If you just try to tin the wires first, then stick them together they will undoubtedly move before the solder cools. The result will be a cold solder joint prone to failure in the future.
Tinning the wire first will also prevent it from being flexible enough to twist together. When working with startnded wires, I like to use the "western union" splice before soldering.
http://www.tpub.com/neets/book4/12t.htm
http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz.htm
Tinning the wire first will also prevent it from being flexible enough to twist together. When working with startnded wires, I like to use the "western union" splice before soldering.
http://www.tpub.com/neets/book4/12t.htm
http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz.htm
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Soldering Question????
Nick, there are several methods to choose from. They all work when properly done. Use what works best for you.
Flatfour, I haven't had any probs with the method I described. Allowing too much solder to wick into the wires will prevent the ease of twisting with any method used. (We are talking about 22-24 awg wire here with little or no strain on them. As an electrician I am fully aware of the importance of a good mechanical connection.)
I use the 'western union' method too. The joint depends on the circumstances.
Soldering requires patience and practice.
Flatfour, I haven't had any probs with the method I described. Allowing too much solder to wick into the wires will prevent the ease of twisting with any method used. (We are talking about 22-24 awg wire here with little or no strain on them. As an electrician I am fully aware of the importance of a good mechanical connection.)
I use the 'western union' method too. The joint depends on the circumstances.
Soldering requires patience and practice.
#6
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Soldering Question????
If you're still not sure, or confused by the previous answers above, try talking to some of the more experienced people at your club. I'm sure someone will be able to help you.
Soldering isn't hard, nor is it "rocket science". It's just a matter of practice and experience.
Soldering isn't hard, nor is it "rocket science". It's just a matter of practice and experience.
#7
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Soldering Question????
Jazzy is correct in the above; for an antenna wire or small gauge (24 or 22 gauge) a good pretinned butt or lap joint will do quite well, no need to twist the wires together. With some thirty years plus in instrumention and electronics I have found that keeping the joints clean, use the proper flux and sufficient heat are the main ingrediants to a good reliable solder connection.