frenchie79

I have a Fuji motor that has a flat surface for the spinner hub to mate to, the spinner hub (Tru-Turn) is also smooth. Both have large surfaces, but will this be enough to keep it from moving with out using the sandpaper trick? Anyone actually try it.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

They can slip even if they have knurling. The sandpaper trick isn't very consistent, and when it burns off the backplate you have a loose prop. Torque the bolt.

frenchie79

Pat Roy-Thanks and that makes sense. I took two peices of thin 220 glued them back to back, paper side of coarse and installed, per another suggestion from a friend, but it does make sense if they ware I will have a loose prop.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

You can also use a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut grooves in the thrust plate

frenchie79

Have you done this? I would hate to encounter any problem-you know Fuji is VERY proud of their parts sales.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I did it on mine.

carrellh

If it is TIGHT, the sandpaper shouldn't wear very much. Even though most of us (including myself) tend to neglect it when using non-wood props, all of them should be checked for tightness fairly often.

frenchie79

Carrell-It is not where the prop makes contact, It is where the 1-1/2" drive hub meets the 3" spinner back plate. Both sufaces are smooth. The spinner that came with the plane (Giant Super Sportster) has raised groves on both sides of the spinner back plate BUT the spinner is CHEAP, out of balance and basically junk. Do you guys think having 1-1/2" of surface contact, even though smooth, will create enough pressure to hold the backplate.
Hey minnflyer-thought about the groves, but groves that are not raised have no bite, both surfaces will just slide over the groves-at least thats what my half-$## logic tells me!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

The grooves are not as effective as a raised surface, but it offers a little help - especially if the backplate has a raised surface.

In your case, I think the double-sided sandpaper is your best bet

frenchie79

I believe your right-I'll try the paper and hope for the best! Cold in wilmer isn't it. I grew up in New Ulm. It will be quite awhile before we are comfortably flying.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yea, every time it looks like it's going to break, it gets cold and snowy again! [:@]

carrellh

I mentioned wood versus plastic props because wood tends to compress over time, creating a slightly loose condition that could accelerate the wear on the sandpaper. Whatever prop you choose you'll probably want to retorque it fairly often to make sure everything stays tight.

frenchie79

Thanks and that makes sense, I'll check it this flying season each time out as part of my preflight inspections. Really doesn't take much to do that.