JamesDL

Hey all... I'm starting to cover my PT-40 with Monokote... I plan to do a white base with some blue, red, and orange trim patterns on top. I've covered the stab, elevator and rudder. So far it is going ok, but I'm having a lot of trouble in corners and curves, such as where the rudder is cut out to allow for the elevator...

I am wondering what the "tricks" are to getting a wrinkle and relatively seam free cover on. Does anyone have any suggestions for a first-timer?

Thanks,
James

housedad

Minnflyer has posted an excellent set of videos and a webpage of info

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=67]Info page [/link]

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=726]Videos[/link]


Here is another set of vids from Minnflyer with more info. Scroll down a ways to find them:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=352]Curves and compound curves[/link]

I found the Top Flight Monocote DVD was very heplful, also.

Here is a useful Thread I found that talks about colors and visibility:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6497710/tm.htm]Color for visibility[/link]

And a Website on colors:

[link=http://www.ultimatecharger.com/color.html]Coloring R-c Aircraft[/link]



Bion

JamesDL

Bion-

Started watching the videos... Just what I needed to get started, thanks very much.

How big of a deal is it to have the seams facing away from the airflow? Because I have some seams facing into the airflow... I might redo some of what I've done so far.

James

hrrcflyer

James,

Having seams facing the airflow mostly cause problems with exhaust residue from the engine. If fuel residue is able to work its way under the seam, the monocote will come loose and you will not be able to stick it down again without completely cleaning the residue from the area.

Persomally I wouldn't redo what you have done, just get some clear fingernail polish and "paint" the seams between the colors. This will do a good job of sealing the seams and won't allow fuel residue to get underneath it. You will also need to be careful on which way you wipe the plane when you clean it at the end of the day so you don't accidently work the edges of the monocote loose.

Welcome to the hobby. It's always nice to see a "newbie" building a plane from a kit.

JamesDL

Well I'm not exactly new... I started this thing about 3 years ago. I moved twice in that time, and each time I moved I had to box up the partially completed plane and then get around to unpacking it at the new place. I finally took it out again a few weeks ago hoping to finish in time to fly when the weather gets nice in a few weeks (I live on Long Island now).

Anyhow, I've built a few rubber powered tissue covered stick models and I have to say I like tissue a lot more than Monokote... I'm getting the hang of it now and I just want to get it finished with a simple color scheme so I can learn to fly!

James

JamesDL

I also have read just about everything at www.airfieldmodels.com

I used his technique of using a soldering iron to melt away the covering around the hinge slots. It seems to work very well.

In MinnFlyer's videos he says he is using ultrakote. Is that a lot more expensive than Monokote?

James

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

The next time use Ultracote. It goes on at a lower temperature and you don't need to almost set the wood on fire to get it to do wingtips. The shrinkage is also MUCH better than Monokote.

mikegordon10

Prolly not much help at this late juncture but Ultracoat gets the wrinkles out much easier.

JamesDL

I might try Ultracote on my next kit, which will probably be a Sig 4 star, although now I have a bit of money invested in Monocote, as I bought several rolls for which I used a small amount for trim... I read about the windex/squeegee technique only after putting on some ornamentation. Needless to say the way I did it resulted in a few bubbles and wrinkles here and there. Are small bubbles anything to worry about?

James