JamesDL

Hi All-

For those of you who bought a piece of steel plate to use as a building board, I'm wondering where you shopped for it... I would like to set up a magnetic board, and I want a 26"x60" piece of 1/8th steel plate. My problem is that I have not been able to find a place to buy, and ordering off the internet is crazy expensive for shipping.

I live in Coram, NY, which is in the middle of Long Island... Anyone know a good place in the NY area to buy a piece of steel?

Thanks,
James

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Look in the yellow pages for steel fabricators. Any local place that cuts steel will be able to get you a sheet of it at a low cost. My board is 18 ga steel, 2'x6' and it cost less than $20

Ken

housedad

Yep, what RCken said.

Only if that don't work for you, call a welder from the yellow pages. they can direct you.

tcraftpo

My Feedback: (7)

I called a local sheet metal business. The shop foreman gave me a quote of $25 cash for a 24" x 60" and two 12" x 24" pieces of galvanized steel. When I got there to pick it up, I handed him the cash, he said not to worry about it... it was left over scrap from the previous day. The next morning I bought him and his crew bagels and coffee for about $10.00...you just never know!

tcraftpo

My Feedback: (7)

I forgot to tell you that it is 18 gauge steel.

MasterAlex

Score!!! Nice pickup there tcraftpro - and very nice attaboy for the Coffee and Bagels too!

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I got the Great Planes one for a birthday present. The grids are invaluable, but it costs way too much in my opinion. I use it for everything.

JamesDL

I thought about the great planes one, but I read it is too expensive for a relatively small board. It is still an option... the price isn't too bad all things considered. I brought my yellow pages with me to work today. There are 2 steel fabricators in there that look promising, I'm going to give them a call. Then I'm going to order magnets and plywood so I can make my jigs.

As for the steel - Even though I have a great sturdy table that has a perfectly flat plywood top, I want something that is perfectly flat by itself and will not bend. I'm thinking 1/8th or 3/16th plate steel. Is that thick enough or should I go thicker like 1/4 inch? I would like to be able to move it myself, but I am a big guy so a 100 to 150 lbs is OK with me.

James

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

JamesDL,
What I did is buy 18 gauge steel and then I fastened it to a hollow core door. The weight is a lot less this way, and the door make the steel dead flat. It would make it a lot easier to move around this way than if you got the thicker steel. When I got my steel I got three sizes 2'x6', 2'x3', and 2'x2' so that I actually have 3 different building areas. I got all that steel (18 guage) for less than $20. Then I got 2 hollow core doors for $10 ($5 each). If you ask if they have doors that have cosmetic damage to them you can usually get them on a discount, that's how I got mine for five bucks each.

Ken

JamesDL

What is the best way to fasten the steel to the door? Adhesive or hardware?

James

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I used a sheet metal screw in each corner of the steel. Holds it fine. If you're interested, I did a build thread on a LT-40 a couple of years ago where I used my magnetic system. You can see the setup in action. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3439708/tm.htm]Pay It Forward build thread!! LT-40 build.[/link]

Hope this helps

Ken

JamesDL

Ken-

I browsed that thread before. That magnetic system looks awesome and is exactly what I'm trying to set up for myself. Did you buy those jigs from Paul or did you make them yourself?

James

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

James,
I made them myself. I set up my system before Paul started selling the jigs. It really doesn't take that long to make up a bunch of them. I was able to make all of mine in a weekend. I had to wait for the sealer to dry on the plywood, otherwise I could have built the jigs in one day.

Ken

MasterAlex

James, you probably know this from looking at Paul's site, but just in case, he has the templates available for download so it's fairly easy to make your own if you want.

-MA

JamesDL

I don't have a table saw or disk sander, so cutting all the plywood and trying to ensure that everything is perfectly square by hand is a little daunting to me. Did you use a power saw or make yours by hand?

James

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I cut mine with a scroll saw.

Ken

saramos

I bought a 4' x 10' sheet of 16 guage sheet and had it cut 4' x 8'. I built my table top as a torsion box from MDF and an internal pine frame. I banded the entire table with 1x6 pine that I attached 1/16" above the top of the upper MDF sheet. The steel now sits flush with the top of the banding and is held in place without any type of adhiesive or fasters. This also eliminates sharp metal edges. I also scribed a 1" grid on the top. I use automotive wax to help prevent rust. Also makes glue spills easy to pop off with a razor.

You could easily put some pine banding around a hollow core door the same way to retain the steel top.

Scott

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I also put a grid on my metal build surfaces, and I wax them to keep the rust away.

Ken

JamesDL

Here are some pics of the table I plan to use for my magnetic board. As you can see it's cluttered with junk right now... I need to set up some shelves for all my tools and supplies.

I inherited this table from the lab I used to work in. They replaced it with another table and were just going to throw this one out. It is braced very well, and I don't think the plywood top will ever warp.

I build in my 1-bedroom apartment (good thing I live alone...) so lot's of construction isn't an option for me. I do plan to get a floor standing drill press and micro-lux table saw someday. I also plan to move to a house with a basement this summer...

James

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

James,
If you can verify that they existing plywood top is indeed flat that you can simply put 18 gauge steel right on top of the plywood.

Ken