JFinn

Hi,
I'm seeking advice on covering and finishing.
I'm currently building a TopFlight Spitfire MkIX Gold Edition (The Big One)and I want to spray paint the finish.
I have a preference for tissue and dope because I like using it and I like the smell, however I'm told it could make the plane too heavy.
Is this true ??

Then, if that is the case, what is the best iron on covering available that will take spray painting.
What paints are best to use with an airbrush and finally what is the best method for fuel proofing the final job.

I look forward to your replies and appreciate all your advice.

Regards,

Jim ..........Ireland.

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

Paint will add more weight to your plane than iron on covering. As for airbrushing, you can use almost any paint. The trick is how much you thin the paint and the application of the paint. If you are painting surface prep is important as well. You may want to do a search here on RCU as there are quite a few treads going on painting. If you go with iron on covering, look for the article written by RCU moderator Minn Flyer as there is no better how to article on the web. Good Luck, Dave

Red B.

Tissue and dope is fine and if done properly doesn't add much weight. Colored dope, e.g. Brodak, doesn't add much weight and this finishing method will probably weigh only sligthly more than most iron-on coverings. Fibreglass and epoxy adds a little bit more weight, but also a adds lot more strength than tissue does. IMHO, iron-on covering is not the best choice for a scale Spitfire.

Flak

My Feedback: (1)

I glass and paint my Warbirds with no problems.

JFinn

Hi Guys, Thanks for your responses.
They have been helpful.

Flak,

Can you please elaborate on the method you use for glassing your warbirds,
I have heard of it been done but am not familiar with the process.

What covering or grade of covering do you use, what type of epoxy is used,how do you apply it and sand it etc. Is there a site I could refer to for this information.
Although I have been at building for about 10 years now, I have stuck with the commercial covering methods on most stuff, and tissue & dope (T&D) on others.
For the older planes the T&D is much better and allows you to do a more realistic finish. I like the painting.
If you could give me more details I would appreciate it.

full rudder

Go see www.tompierce.net for glassing and fininshing information, it's all detailed step by step. An all
around great place to start!

Ed Smith

One that has not been mentiond here, depending on the engine used will the paint need to be fuel proof? This can dictate the type of final covering.

Ed S

JFinn

Thanks again guys, the engine will probably be an OS 4 stk.
I have reviewed that site and printed off the details. It's nice to see someone go to the bother of providing all that information for others.
I need to do some research now on the different products memtioned and do a comparisons against European products.
Keep the advice coming. All information is welcomed.

Jim

BalsaBob

My Feedback: (24)

Jim, Iron-on covering on that beautiful airplane ... (BOO ! HISS ! NO WAY !). Just kidding (sort of) ... that airplane is way too nice for iron-on covering. Don't do it .... you'll be sorry. I have just started using automotive paints for some of my projects. More work, and more money, but there is an infinite number of colors (and finishes) available. Not sure what kind of shops are available near you, but some shops will actually custom mix a color for you and put it in a spray can (incase you don't have access to a spray gun/compressor). Just something to consider. Bob

saramos

Be sure to check out the build thread by Tubig. Great info there.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/TF_S...1403165/tm.htm

I used West Systems epoxy and 3/4 oz glass. To fill the weave and for surface detail, I used high build auto primer. The plane was painted with latex exterior paint using a Testors Aztec brush. Weathering was Humbrol and Model Masters paints. The clearcoat is waterbase polyurethane.

Here's a couple of photos.

Scott

pub

go and look at this build (BLUE ANGLE), the work is one of the best that you could ever ask for, the finish is a work of art.check it out. pub

BalsaBob

My Feedback: (24)

Scott, I have been wanting to try waterbase latex and water based polyeurethane as the clearcote. How do they hold up to fuel ? are they fuelproof ? thanks. Bob

Ed Smith

The picture shows a 1/4 scale Cosmic Wind Pylon racer. It is painted with latex and an automotive clearcoat for fuel proofing. You can bet your life that before I did that paint job I checked out fuel proof paints by painting test samples..

For glow fuel, latex is not fuel proof.

I do not care what anybody tries to tell me. Water based polyurethane clear or paint IS NOT FUEL PROOF. Some use the term "Fuel resistant" I do not want to hear that. I want to hear "FUEL PROOF"

Hence the automotive clear on my Cosmic Wind.

Ed S

saramos

You're right Ed, waterbase polyurethane is not fuel proof. But the satin finish will stand up to low nitro content fuel if cleaned after each flight. The problem with oil base polyurethane is that it yellows quite a bit. I'm sure some of the auto clearcoats are fuel proof, but I don't know them well enough to know which are fuel proof and compatable with latex.

Scott

BalsaBob

My Feedback: (24)

Ed, your Cosmic Wind looks great ! I never would have thought that an automotive clearcote would be able to go over latex. Thanks. Bob

Ed Smith

Hi Scott,

The clear I use is "Nexa Autocolor" I believe it used to be "I.C.I. Autocolor". It is a two part material. As long as it is available I will use it. If I have to change it will be back to the test wing for it's 20th coat of paint.

Ed S

JFinn

Guys many thanks for all your help. I have now decided to GLASS my Spit.
My next question is how, I will open a new thread for that. If I get as much help there I'll be a happy man.
Thanks again for all your contributions.

Jim.