Incidence meters...
#1
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Incidence meters...
I am in the market for an incidence meter and am wondering which one I should buy. I only know of two -- the Robarts meter and the Great Planes laser meter. Between these two which is more useful? More accurate? etc?
Are there any others?
TIA for your help.
Cheers!
Galen
Are there any others?
TIA for your help.
Cheers!
Galen
#3
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Incidence meters...
Depending on how deeply involved you want to get in the use of incidence meters, consider this.
I use more than one meter when setting up the wing and tail. The Robarts works on the spirit level principle. I set the wing first then the tail with the second meter. I do not have to move anything. The laser meter does not work like this. It does not have a natural level. It would have to be set to, say, the wing first then moved to the tail. Who knows what is upset with the move. While moving the meter it is very easy to "Jog" the set up. When joining wing halves I put a Robarts on each tip and adjust accordingly. This would not be possible with a laser meter.
In my opinion the laser meter is an ill thought out piece of equipment.
Ed S
I use more than one meter when setting up the wing and tail. The Robarts works on the spirit level principle. I set the wing first then the tail with the second meter. I do not have to move anything. The laser meter does not work like this. It does not have a natural level. It would have to be set to, say, the wing first then moved to the tail. Who knows what is upset with the move. While moving the meter it is very easy to "Jog" the set up. When joining wing halves I put a Robarts on each tip and adjust accordingly. This would not be possible with a laser meter.
In my opinion the laser meter is an ill thought out piece of equipment.
Ed S
#4
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Laser Incidence Meter
To each his own, but I love the laser incidence meter. Not difficult or tricky at all to use, and extremely accurate.
What I do:
1. Set the incidence meter on top of a 4 Ft level which is reading level. Zero the laser movement.
2. Block up the plane so that the Horizontal Stab is level (I use a 6" level for this).
3. Now you can check both the main wing incidence and the up / down thrust of the engine without moving anything except the Meter.
Just to be sure I always re-check the laser zero after moving the meter, but I have never had it change.
4. Remove main wing and turn plane on its side. Block it up so that the vertical fin is level. (I assume you installed the fin straight on the fuselage)
5. Check the engine thrust right / left.
What I do:
1. Set the incidence meter on top of a 4 Ft level which is reading level. Zero the laser movement.
2. Block up the plane so that the Horizontal Stab is level (I use a 6" level for this).
3. Now you can check both the main wing incidence and the up / down thrust of the engine without moving anything except the Meter.
Just to be sure I always re-check the laser zero after moving the meter, but I have never had it change.
4. Remove main wing and turn plane on its side. Block it up so that the vertical fin is level. (I assume you installed the fin straight on the fuselage)
5. Check the engine thrust right / left.
#5
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Incidence meters...
I have been in the hobby for a few years and heard discussion of incidence meters and was interested when I say this thread. I have built a few kits without an incidence meter and they all have flown well with minimal trim adjustments. So, I understand how these meters work but don't really understand why I would want/need one of them. It' seems as though the kits are designed to allow success without one. I have never seen a kit instruction book say to verify the installation of a surface or engine with an incidence meter.
So, why should I want one?
So, why should I want one?
#6
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Incidence meters...
As long as the kit designers have done their job and you only use those kits, you don't need one. But, when you start getting outside that area, then they come in very handy. I have seen kits that were correctly designed but somewhere along the line the tail pieces got a bit out of whack and the incidence was off right off the building board. Also, if you do sailplanes a meter is very helpful. As you noted, zillions of folks get by without one. Gary
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METER
I luv my G/P laser incedence meter... I build pattern planes so alignment of the wing to stab is critical to overall performance. I have tried the Robart also but the laser meter gets my thumbs up, easier to read(read old eyes).
One other use for these meters is to determine wash out or warp. By setting at zero on the inboard of the wing then moving it out to end you can tell much about how true your wing is. It works great for checking thrust angles also.
True... if the kit is designed right it "should" be no problem.
One other use for these meters is to determine wash out or warp. By setting at zero on the inboard of the wing then moving it out to end you can tell much about how true your wing is. It works great for checking thrust angles also.
True... if the kit is designed right it "should" be no problem.
#9
Incidence meters...
Most everyone is in agreement, I personally use three (3) 2 GP Lasers and a Robart. One is set on the thrust line attached to the prop nut, one on the wing and one on the tail. The Robart on the wing is slid to the tip to insure no negative or positve incidence.
Why? With proper Balance and Proper alignments of the wing to the Thrust line of the aircraft. You can insure your aircraft will fly the best it can from drawing board to the air.
Why? With proper Balance and Proper alignments of the wing to the Thrust line of the aircraft. You can insure your aircraft will fly the best it can from drawing board to the air.
#10
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Incidence meters...
I'm partial to the Robart meters. I use 3 when setting up biplanes. One of them uses the long bar that Robart provides directly.
The lasers have their uses, but I prefer using a product that will provide the best comparisons with reference to the gage markings used.
Silversurfer
The lasers have their uses, but I prefer using a product that will provide the best comparisons with reference to the gage markings used.
Silversurfer