bawls

I am painting a glow-fueled warbird.
I was told to go over the paint with Lustrekote Flat Clear to fuel-proof the finish.

Since Lustrekote is a lacquer, I decided it was best to use a lacquer paint, so I chose Tamiya Aircraft Paint in the tiny spray cans. Damn they are small!

On the bottom of the plane I decided to use the new Kyrlon H2O Latex baby sky blue. Not so confident about Latex, but can cover it, as well, with Lustrekote Clear....


Is Tamiya Aircraft Lacquer Paint fuel proof on it's own?

If I let the Latex paint cure for a week or 2, might it be fuel proof?

bawls

This question was in another forum, but moved here. Starting to seem like maybe this isn't the best place to ask this particular question....

Has anyone ever used Tamiya Aircraft paint before?

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Latex isn't fuelproof, it must be overcoated with a clear that is. I've tried several clear coatings, LustreKote is the best I've used, glow fuel won't touch it (at least to 15% nitro, which is what I use). It works fine over latex, but give the latex a week to fully cure, I have had a bit of surface cracking of the latex after clearcoating, but I clearcoated it soon after painting (couple of days). I think the cracking was due to continued shrinkage of the latex as it cured. Duplicolor makes a clear automotive lacquer in a spray can that also works pretty well, you can find it at Advance Auto , AutoZone, and maybe O'Reilly's.

I'm not familiar with the Tamiya paints except when used on non-flying static models (plastic). That is what they are intended for, hence the small cans. (plus I guess they can charge more per ounce of paint)

bawls

Indeed the cans are small. Took me 6 cans to paint the top and sides. I do understand that the Lacquer paints by Tamiya are indeed fuel proof.

The Latex, since it's on the bottom, will see the fuel residue. I will hope it does not crack on me...I may have covered it too soon. Dang it.

jaka

Hi!
They are not fuel proof!
No one component paint (aerosol paint or in bottles) are fuel proof if you by "fuel proof" mean that they dont ...over time will get soft and could be flaked by a finger nail.
Real Fuel proof paint are only 2-part auto lacquer and 2-part boat paint.

bawls

I guess by our definition we mean as fuel proof as Lustrekote claims to be.

Epoxy Paint is for a different class of folks altogether. Hard Core.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

LustreKote is an acrylic lacquer, and Top Flite markets it as "fuel PROOF". I have two planes either painted or clearcoated with LustreKote and have been flying them over three years (Saito .65 in one, Saito .80 in the other) using 15% nitro Cool Power and have had absolutely NO deterioration of the LustreKote, even in the area closest to the exhaust. One other plane I had was painted with latex and clearcoated with LustreKote. In one area on the middle and top wings (Dr-1) I had some cracking of the finish. I believe it was due to clearcoating the latex before it had completely cured, the rest of the plane had no cracking, even the bottom, where the heaviest residue from the exhaust was.

Others may have different experience with it , but that is mine. I like the way it applies, how fast it dries, and the quality of the finish. My only gripe with LutreKote is the diminishing selection of colors available.

bawls

What's up with the diminishing selection of colors? EPA coming down on them or something?

My latex has not cracked yet. But it's only been about a week. How did you address the issue once it had started cracking?

Rudolph Hart

We regularly apply epoxy etch/primers and high build coatings to all sorts of huge boats/cranes and what not.You don't need to take the risk of handling those types of materials,which are far superior to the age old system you folks are yakking about.Plus you pay thru the nose for it and it's crap re your fuel proof and durability assumptions,not to mention gloss retention questions over an extended period of time.A safer way is a half way house solution with unlimited colour choice,excellent gloss retention,fuel proof to a large degree and will even take a bit of brake fluid abuse..yes,it's any 2k system sold by speis hecker,glasurit,dulux etc.Make friends with your local panel shop owner and buy some.The laquer/nitro-cellulose paint systems you speak of are as old as harley davidson engineering concepts.Ask the panel shop to print you a tech data sheet for the paint and read it,it's very easy to use and probably cheaper to buy than what you are using now.In ten years time it will still look good providing you don't bin the aeroplane before that.

bawls

We prefer flat colors, good sir.

Rudolph Hart

Hey balls how ya doin?

Flat colours indeed,they are favoured by people who can't be bothered prepping a surface well,even if they are good painters.F4u's and bearcats look just brilliant in deep glossy navy blue colours,would'nt have it any other way would you? and what kind of warbird are you or have you painted?

Re your original fuel proofing question.Acrylic in most of it's common forms is microscopically porous to a much larger degree than 2k and absorbs lots more things.Polyurethanes and epoxys do not.All base acrylic paint systems do NOT resist or tolerate fuel in any form.There are additives/accelleraters you can buy for them,to convert the acrylic to an acrylic polyurethane(2K as used in the automobile industry) in the form of a clear catalyst.It's way more expensive to do that.And speaking of money,we pay an average of $100 per litre(qtr of a gallon i think)for good quality 2k tinters here.Work out by weight what you are paying for hobby shop paint.Two pack systems by dulux,standox,ppg,speis hecker,glasurit and many other(2K as in two applied/spraypainted finishing coats)paint systems will do that for you to a larger or lesser degree depending on your preference re brands and money.Bit like outboard boat engines really,in the sense that they are all pretty good or they would'nt be selling so many of them.It's the guys that own them that make the difference.

A quick foot note.Don't ever be tempted to spray brush or roll any 2k clear over any acrylic paint base even if you think you just paid ****loads for your favourite colour and can't face the prospect of binning it.The clear will always peel off the base because no matter how long you leave that base to dry(work harden)it will still be emitting trapped solvents many months later.A 2k overcoat in clear will trap these solents and they just keep ushing hence your clear peeling or flaking in some areas.Don't know what the hobby shops are selling people re fuel proof coatings.

bawls

Rudolph Hart

Hey nice carpet!

I see you built the merlin engined variant

bawls

I've added some German Kill Markings. I was unable to find a single photo of a P-40 with German Kill Markings. I did not consider the Kittyhawks in Africa Camo. I've searched in vain for a USAAF OD Green P-40 with them.

What did they do for half-kills? half a swastika?

Rudolph Hart

Hi Bawls

As far as i know the p40 was used mainly in china with the american volunteer group(flying tigers)
It was totally outclassed in the european theatre even with the merlin 28 engine and a top speed of 373 mph.

bawls

I will go with the Japanese Kill Markings. He shall be an Ace.

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

jester_s1

Dude, when have you ever in your life seen a 2 part lacquer paint?

Yes, there are a number of single component paints that are fuel proof. The above mentioned Lusterkote is fuel proof (maybe I should say fuel resistant since if one tries hard enough with enough nitro it can be softened, but in practical application it won't be), but since it is an acetone based lacquer it will dissolve lots of other paints you might put it on. The best thing would be to do your whole plane using the lusterkote product so there's no compatibility issues if you want to go that route. Since you can't do that now, Klass Kote 2 part urethane is an option and has been used by many modelers to top coat latex. Any 2 part auto paint will work but that requires spray equipment and in most cases a respirator so you don't mess up your lungs. I ran across the KBS Diamond Finish clear a couple days ago. It's single part, impervious to all solvents, and can be brushed. I asked the manufacturer about compatibility with latex and they said it works well for that as long as the latex has been allowed to fully cure and has been scuffed first. I don't know anyone who's used it though.

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

LOL sorry Jest old post.

I just put up a pic of a P-40 with German kills for the heck of it.

Don't even bother with the fuel proof paint argument.

Shoot in another thread someone was saying how the old K&B epoxy paint wasn't fuel proof. So there is no win here just rings and rings of argument.

jester_s1

Well don't I feel like goober jumping into an old thread and wasting such a well thought-out retort. I would still love to see some of that 2 part lacquer though!

Very nice p-40 btw.