SPLIT S

Ok, how do I handle this. This was looking great when it was done last Novemeber or so. Been in my workshop since it was finished, hasn't even been maidened yet. Any idea how I can get rid of the bubbles and wrinkles? The checker graphics were custom cut for me, they DO NOT like heat. Kinda want to melt if you know what I mean. I'd like to smooth things out again before I take it to the field but am at a loss as to how. Suggestions? Before and after shots.

Thanks,
Dan

SPLIT S

Hmmmm. Pics always worked before. One more time.

SPLIT S

Well, it seems that pics aren't working at the moment. I'll try again later.

SPLIT S

Test

blvdbuzzard

Sock covered iron and shrink it back. If it is a sticker or sticky trim sheet, small pin hole in one side and a credit card as a squeegee and press it towards the pin hole.


Dru.

firstplaceaviator

My Feedback: (27)

I'm with Dru... He's spot on [8D]
Doug

Jester241

Yeah,thats gonna be tough if those graphics arent made from monokote or ultracote or something like that. They could be vinyl though if they were custom made. If you can heat it,dont be afraid to put some tiny holes in it like buzzard said. If those black graphics wont take any heat,maybe you could carefully peel them up,shrink the white,then stick em back down(doubtful). Maybe worse case scenerio,you could cut the whole length of the elevators trailing edge,lift the covering on the whole elevator and try to stretch in tight and re-iron the whole section down(yeah,sounds crazy,lol). I just hate to see you make it worse trying to make it better. They really are cool looking!

Well,I guess you could also just cut the black section instead of the whole elevator....lift it up and re-iron just that black section back on maybe. And then play around with the white parts(they dont look to hard to fix).

Jester241

And I think its gonna take alot more than just some ironing to shrink that out too. That would take some major heat from a heat gun to get those wrinkles out,and if he's saying that black doesnt like heat......well,we'll need an option B.

firstplaceaviator

My Feedback: (27)

I had a Christen Eagle with Monokote and vinyl graphics do the same thing. I shrunk them out with a sock covered iron. The Monokote underneath shrunk without harming the vinyl. Start with medium heat, and bump up the temperature slowly until you see the wrinkles start coming out. Set the heal of the iron on one end of the wrinkle and roll the iron slowly across the graphics, being careful not to use any pressure, and do not allow the iron to drag across the graphics. It will destroy them. You may have to put a pin hole in the monokote if the bubbles won't lay down. It takes a little time and patience. But, it will look good as new when your done.
Doug

SPLIT S

Thanks to everyone for the help. Took about 1/2 hour to do one elevator but she sure looks alot better. Sock covered iron, medium heat and some pinholes in the film. The iron wanted to drag across the graphic with the slightest movement so I found that if I held the iron still for a few seconds and built the heat up slowly, they shrank themselves out.

Thanks again,
Dan

firstplaceaviator

My Feedback: (27)

Good job! [8D]

blvdbuzzard

As you can see, you are the first to have that happen. .


The pin hole is an old trick. The heated air has to go some place. teh hole is small enought to not worry about. If you do worry, a tiny drop of Ca will seal it up.


Looks a lot better all smoothed out. Good job.


Dru.

SPLIT S

Thanks for the compliments. I'm going to tackle the other elevator tonight and make my way around to other areas that I noticed have puckered.

While everyone is so helpful I'd like your opinions on another aspect of covering. On sheeted surfaces I generally try to use the lowest heat setting on the iron that will adhere the Monokote without causing bubbles to appear. Seems to work very well but I'm wondering if that didn't contribute some to the bubbles forming down the road. I have other planes Monokoted years ago with the same technique and they still look great. I guess what I'm asking is how much heat on the iron do all of you use for sheeted surfaces? I have noticed that if I do have to remove Monokote during the process of applying it, for whatever reason, it seems to come off much easier than it should. At least to me it seems to. I finish the balsa with 600 paper, vacuum and tack before I start so I'm confident it's not a dust issue. Hope what I'm trying to say makes sense. Suggestions?

Thanks,
Dan

firstplaceaviator

My Feedback: (27)

I sand with 320 and vacuum the airframe. Then I give it a coat of Coverite Balsarite. Then I give them a quick once-over with 400 before covering. The Balsarite makes films stick like glue. It eliminates the problem you're having now too. My hobby shop was out of it when i covered my last project. Now that it has sat for several months, there are sags and bubbles in the Monokote... I knew I should have waited until I had more Balasarite. But, impatience got the better of me.[]

blvdbuzzard

Yes Balsarite is the answer to most any covering issue. I use it for every covering job. Too bad I can not get it anymore in the Republic of Kalifornia. It contains bad stuff so they will not sell it here. The best I can do know is Sig Stick it and thin with acetone. I have a coupel 20 year old covering jobs that look good. That is after hanging in the garage through 110 degree summers and 0 degree winters.



Dru.

TEBerg

My Feedback: (1)

Split S, Good job on working the wrinkles out of the covering..

Ihave a couple of questions - the monokote covered fuselage (solid sheeted) wrinkled from the sun. (But, the wing looks great still)...

I did use Balsarite on the whole plane before I started covering, but still got the sags and wrinkles on the sheeted fuselage..

My quesitons are:

1) when you say "sock covered iron"are you using one of the light material Monokote Socks (which I use all the time) or do you use a thicker sock from the drawer?? Like your own...
2) when you "roll"the iron across the wrinkle is it like you are starting at the "heel"and then tilting the iron down to the tip, like taking a step with your foot?
3) How are you working out the wrinkles with "No Pressure"? Not actually pressing the covering down, just letting the iron set on the covering.

Lastly, any luck with a heat gun and then gently rubbing the monokote back down?

Any thoughts on this will be great. I already put the vinyl graphics on the Skyraider and really don't want to screw it all up..

Thanks...

jetmech05

don't use an iron unless that is all you have...as you can iron wrinkles in....use a heat gun...takes those wrinkles right out.....

Good luck