Aug

Everybody is telling me that I need to use an after run oil like Mystery Oil in my OS .70 4 cycle and even on my .40 2 cycle before I put away after use yet on the fuel jug it reads (Omega 15% Castor/Synthetic model engine fuel) " DO NOT USE AFTER RUN OILS! Morgan Fuel contains a rust inhibitor and an anti-oxidant for resting engines." Should I use the after run oil anyway? Thanks.

fancman

My Feedback: (16)

By all means.....follow the advice of the guys at the field where you fly. Ignore any advice from anyone who actually has a business selling fuel. What could they possibly know.

I been flying RC for over 25 yrs and have five four cycle engines of various ages and I never use after run oil as long as I have castor in my fuel and I always use fuel with a little castor. Never had a problem at all. I would only use after run oil if I were going to put an engine in storage for a prolonged time.

Scar

My Feedback: (3)

I'm on the same page with fancman, with one minor difference. I store mine with a little Automatic Transmission Fluid in them.

Just my 2¢ worth,
Dave Olson

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Car manufacturers tell you to change the oil in your car every 3000 miles.

I change mine twice a year. And I don't use after run oil in my 2 or 4-strokes.

So it's your call. If you WANT to use it, by all means do so. But I've never had an engine rust up (unless it sat crashed in a field for a few weeks [:@] )

FILE IFR

Just use it for the off season if you want to... (that's what I do)

It ridiculous to use it after each day of flying.

Aug

Got it, Thanks.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Almost never!!! After I rebuild an engine and it's dry and going into storage then I use the stuff. I use it to assemble an engine too. Other then that never!! Want to mess up a good YS engine, use after run. Pull up there instructions and read them. If I'm at the field and I know I'm going to not be flying a plane for a long while I will land it, drain the tank and then run the engine dry, that leaves the little bit of castor from my fuel coating the parts. I also live in a very dry climate so some of the guys in damper parts of the country may have other ideas and thoughts.

blvdbuzzard

After run oil is sort of like head light fluid and muffler bearings. Some people can not live without them. I have way to many engines that have never seen after run oil to worry about it now. My O.S. 70 flew for about 10 years with no oil added after a days flying.

About the only time my engines seen oil other then what is in the fuel, is when I put the back together after a nice dirt park job. Fuel does need some Castor in it though.



Dru.

jetmech05

When I first started flying..all the guys said to use after run oil....I did religiously...burnt out the fuel and added after run oil....after a while I tore an engine down and still had rust on the bearings...I was thinking how bad would the rust of been if I hadn't used oil...A while later I was at a friends house who was cleaning an engine after a dirt park job, his bearings looked like mine and he never used after run oil....I never used it again...
What I have done lately is add a couple of tablespoons of caster oil to a gallon of Omega....
If you're rich you can get a gallon of 30% heli fuel cut it 50/50 with 0% for a nice oil rich fuel....

LuftwaffeOberst

I use the Hobbico After Run Oil... my engines love it! I apply it in my Carb and a little in my Kwick Fill... after I run out the excess fuel in the engine when I'm done flying. It keeps the rust down in my engine and keeps the Kwick Fill from gunking up and sticking.

I took a O.S. 40 FX apart for a guy who never ran out the fuel or used a after run oil. You should have seen the surface rust and gunk on the crank and bearings!

After I showed the guy he became a firm believer in using the after run oil. It definately keeps engines living much longer. Plus it seems to help my engines start a little better.

Mode One

It costs hardly nothing to use and I've never found it to hurt anything. I've been around machines my entire life and the use of lubrication to preserve is just plain commonsense to me!

I don't care that people seem to think they can live without! It goes against the mechanical abilities I have that have made my living for me for 40+ years.

You will never convince me other wise and I'm glad how you do it is working for you.

Phoenixangel

i use it in my bushing style engines, you can actually feel them turn easier. Seems to me however that it is more for lubrication while cold starting the first time of the day, there is a time where no lubrication exist other then whatever residual castor would be left from the last use. So the first few revolutions until the fuel circulates would have much less then normal lubrication.


It seems that an after run oil solves this issue far more then rust.

Just my 2 cents.

Mode One

After thinking about the instance mentioned in #11 above, where I had bearings go bad on me, this was in an O.S. 1.20 four stroke mounted in a 1/4th scale Nosen Aeronca Champion. This airplane was shot down by my flying buddy, when he turned on his TX, which was on the same frequency I was. The plane crashed in the tops of trees in a pine plantation, so never hit the ground. The plane was a total loss! I'd spent a long time building this one and so this crash hurt! I stripped the carcus and put the engine in a coffee can and it sat for a year or so. I did nothing to the engine. When I went back to the engine, I found the bearings were very stiff. I stripped the engine down (removed head, carbarator, back plate and soaked the bearings with Marvel's Air Tool Oil). However, I could see that the bearings were rusty. I had to replace these bearings. I think had I put an Afterrun Oil into this engine after the crash, I would have saved the bearings.

Again, it is a matter of opinion and in actuality how we handle our own equipment is completely our own business. I believe I've seen the effects of not using it when laying up an engine for a long period of time. Like I said previously, it costs very little to do and there certainly is no ill effects in doing so, therefore I will continue doing as long as I'm involved in the hobby!

Ram Jet

Hey, Luft, I'm going to try a product called G96 Gun Treatment. This suff blows WD40 away. I refuse to use WD40 anymore unless it's an emergency. A Deputy Sheriff in Upstate New York told me about this stuff about 20 years ago when I was applying for a pistol permit. I had a set of "wall hanger" Winchester Model 94 30-30s hanging on my wall. A friend came over and wanted to handle one. A few days after he left I took down the rifle to look at it. I was horrified to see his fingerprints on a blued area of the rifle. The acid in his hands had erched his fingerprints into the steel. I took some 0000 steel wool soaked in G96 and it cleaned up beautifully - and it never corroded again. I'll bet that if you took raw, unfinished pieces of steel, coated one with WD 40 and one with G96 and placed them outside in the weather for 30 days that the G96 piece could be examined and there would be no rust on it. I doubt the piece coated with WD 40 would be rust free. Whatever, NEVER put WD 40 in a tumbler lock mechanisim. It will gum up in a few months and totally mess up the lock.

I'm going to try G96 as my after run oil.

Bill

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

LUFT, there are no bearings in an LA engine to ever rust?? I don't think the after run would have helped it much.

LuftwaffeOberst

You're right about the LA not having bearings. If you read my post more carefully I didn't write LA. And you are wrong for the LA, the Crank would rust up... grinding at the aluminum like fine wet sandpaper eventually making the engine leak glow out the front do to the tolerances being increased by the wear.

Hey Ram Jet... good gun oil might work, I'm too chicken to try it on my glow engines. I too hate WD-40... never use it. Even for my guns I never use it because it leaves a film and eventually dries up.

I use the Remington Solvent with the patches until I don't see anymore dirt, use the brass brissel brush for the bore with solvent... then oil it all down and run a oiled patch down the barrel. Then I try not to handle any of the metal parts on my guns if I don't have to... gun metal loves to rust!

Ram Jet

Good advice Luft. Thanks. But you'll get the G96 out of my hands when you pry it from my cold, white, dead fingers.

Bill (If it ain't broke I'll still fix it." - can't help myself.)

LuftwaffeOberst

removed

Aug

I was told to use Marvel's Mystery Oil for a after run oil. Does anyone else use it?

LuftwaffeOberst

Hey Aug... yes a friend of mine who owns a hobby shop near where I live uses it, he says it works good. Matter in fact he says it's cheaper just to get a big can of it. I might try it... but I know that the Hobbico works and I don't like to try new things unless I'm forced too. It's one of my few defects. ( My wife would say many) Shhhh

Ram Jet

G96.com. It even smells good. Your lady will think you have changed your cologne. Smells sort of like vanilla. Uh oh, she might think you might be getting "light in your sneakers".

Bill

LuftwaffeOberst

Thanks Bill, hey I think glow exhaust smells good while the engine is running, my After Run Oil smells good...and even my Top Flight Flat Clear Fuel Proof starts to smell good after an hout without the windows open. Not to change the Topic too much... but did you see the movie " The Red Baron?" It was released in Europe but not in the United States. English and Canadian Actors... it was really good for a movie. It was more accurate than "Flyboys," but it was still off on many things.

You would like the Air Combat... had a Eindecker in the first scene, Albatros, Camels, Se5a, Zepplin Bombers, Halifax Bombers and many more etc. The planes and special effects and some scenes were very accurate. You got to see it or have it Bill. I have it on AVI waiting to burn it as a DVD. Email me if you can... I'll send my E-mail through the PM. Sorry it isn't working.

Did you know that some German pilots experimented by placing engines from allied planes... and used them in there own? Amazing!

Mode One

My mixture is Marvel's Air Tool Oil, mixed 50/50 with Automatic Transmission Oil. I have some of the Hobbyco stuff I'm using up right now.

Aug

Now that the weather in my area is getting milder, I intend to be flying at least four times a month or more in between my other obsession, fishing. I don't need to do the "after run" thing if I'm flying that often, do I?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I wouldn't