Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
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Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
I recently acquired a fine old, long discontinued Robart High Point Prop Balancer; but alas, no paperwork. []
If someone would provide me with copies of the original paperwork, i.e. instructions, parts list, etc.; I would be more that happy to pay the reasonable cost of same. I emailed Robart with my request, but they aparently are too busy to respond.
Thanks in advance for any and all responses!
Regards to all!
If someone would provide me with copies of the original paperwork, i.e. instructions, parts list, etc.; I would be more that happy to pay the reasonable cost of same. I emailed Robart with my request, but they aparently are too busy to respond.
Thanks in advance for any and all responses!
Regards to all!
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RE: Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
Hi!
Why paperwork for a balancer???
Just push the rod with the two cones on the prop and hang the prop on the balancer!
You sand the prop blade that is heavy (always sand on the front side, curved side , of the prop). When you are ready the prop should balance in every position you place it in.
Why paperwork for a balancer???
Just push the rod with the two cones on the prop and hang the prop on the balancer!
You sand the prop blade that is heavy (always sand on the front side, curved side , of the prop). When you are ready the prop should balance in every position you place it in.
#3
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RE: Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
Robart no longer makes nor sells the high point
You might try Bennett Built? http://www.bennettbuilt.com/
Here's the Dubro prop balancer instructions. They should suffice http://www.dubro.com/hobby/documents...0908091421.pdf
You might try Bennett Built? http://www.bennettbuilt.com/
Here's the Dubro prop balancer instructions. They should suffice http://www.dubro.com/hobby/documents...0908091421.pdf
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RE: Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
ORIGINAL: jaka
You sand the prop blade that is heavy (always sand on the front side, curved side , of the prop). When you are ready the prop should balance in every position you place it in.
You sand the prop blade that is heavy (always sand on the front side, curved side , of the prop). When you are ready the prop should balance in every position you place it in.
This is my personal opinion, as is sanding the front of the prop yours, however sanding the back of the prop would be a little easier as it is flat, the front is curved.
Jon
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RE: Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
You should never sand the front of the prop, you could too easily distort the airfoil and mess up the prop.
If the flat side is sanded the pitch of the sanded blade will be different from the other blade. When sanding the blade care must be taken not to alter the airfoil. It is easier to maintain the airfoil than it is the pitch. Do not forget to balance the hub as well.
Ed S
#6
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RE: Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
ORIGINAL: jaka
Hi!
Why paperwork for a balancer???
Just push the rod with the two cones on the prop and hang the prop on the balancer!
You sand the prop blade that is heavy (always sand on the front side, curved side , of the prop). When you are ready the prop should balance in every position you place it in.
Hi!
Why paperwork for a balancer???
Just push the rod with the two cones on the prop and hang the prop on the balancer!
You sand the prop blade that is heavy (always sand on the front side, curved side , of the prop). When you are ready the prop should balance in every position you place it in.
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RE: Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
ORIGINAL: Ed Smith
That is incorrect. Jaka is correct.
If the flat side is sanded the pitch of the sanded blade will be different from the other blade. When sanding the blade care must be taken not to alter the airfoil. It is easier to maintain the airfoil than it is the pitch. Do not forget to balance the hub as well.
Ed S
You should never sand the front of the prop, you could too easily distort the airfoil and mess up the prop.
If the flat side is sanded the pitch of the sanded blade will be different from the other blade. When sanding the blade care must be taken not to alter the airfoil. It is easier to maintain the airfoil than it is the pitch. Do not forget to balance the hub as well.
Ed S
"Plastic" props pose a different set of rules. (Master Air Screw, APC) I take a sharp #11 blade and first scrape the mold flashing off the edges (especially the TE of the blades, they're like knives). Put 'em on the balancer and let 'em find center. Then taking the knife again, scrape (one or two swipes) off the TEof the heavy blade. Don't worry about flat spotting the TE, it won't effect the performance of the prop. It sould only take a couple swipes to bring it into balance. Remember, you are not whittling out a new blade. Hold the #11 blade 90° to the TE and scrape off a little material at a time.
Also, with Master Air Screw blades, there are recesses in the hub that one can fill with modeling clay toget balance, or you can use epoxy andsome lead shot if youwant.
Stay safe!
Jon
#12
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RE: Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
Of course you must have the same blade lenght! Doing anything else is just foolish!
"Of course" is shorthand for "I can't cite any reference for this statement."
#14
RE: Robart High Point Prop Balancer Paperwork Needed!
Bob Yeager
The origional High Point Ballancer was designed, manufactured, and sold by Dennis Belick (not sure
of that last name spelling?) He sold the product to Robart. I think some other manufacturer also copied
it (mostly) in plastic. They work great for boat props, and fly wheels too. You might try to find Dennis. I
believe he used to live in Indiana, Illionis, or Ohio. A better idea would be to find someone locally who
has one, and they could show you how to use it. There's a lot of them out there.
I have to disagree with some of the previous posts on reworking props. First off, a single bladed prop is
the most efficient. Back in the 30's there was a guy who flew his full scale Champ all over the country
to promote his single blade Aeromatic prop. I flew single bladed props back in the 50's. The free flight and controline guys have been flying them for years. Even the RUBBER power guys have used them. Yes
they have to have a counter weight. The only draw back is that they exert heavy side loads on the shaft
and bearings. Over a period of a lot of running something will fail, because most engines are not designed for that kind of abuse.
I have also reworked ever square milimeter on wood, nylon, fiber filled nylon, glass and, carbon fiber
props. I've sanded the back, front, leading edge, trailing edge, and hub. I raced 6 inch props with one
blade a half inch longer than the other. The only props I've seen come apart had bad wood grain, or in
the case of plastic props, they had air bubbles. Greg
The origional High Point Ballancer was designed, manufactured, and sold by Dennis Belick (not sure
of that last name spelling?) He sold the product to Robart. I think some other manufacturer also copied
it (mostly) in plastic. They work great for boat props, and fly wheels too. You might try to find Dennis. I
believe he used to live in Indiana, Illionis, or Ohio. A better idea would be to find someone locally who
has one, and they could show you how to use it. There's a lot of them out there.
I have to disagree with some of the previous posts on reworking props. First off, a single bladed prop is
the most efficient. Back in the 30's there was a guy who flew his full scale Champ all over the country
to promote his single blade Aeromatic prop. I flew single bladed props back in the 50's. The free flight and controline guys have been flying them for years. Even the RUBBER power guys have used them. Yes
they have to have a counter weight. The only draw back is that they exert heavy side loads on the shaft
and bearings. Over a period of a lot of running something will fail, because most engines are not designed for that kind of abuse.
I have also reworked ever square milimeter on wood, nylon, fiber filled nylon, glass and, carbon fiber
props. I've sanded the back, front, leading edge, trailing edge, and hub. I raced 6 inch props with one
blade a half inch longer than the other. The only props I've seen come apart had bad wood grain, or in
the case of plastic props, they had air bubbles. Greg
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I recently acquired a fine old, long discontinued Robart High Point Prop Balancer; but alas, no paperwork. []
If someone would provide me with copies of the original paperwork, i.e. instructions, parts list, etc.; I would be more that happy to pay the reasonable cost of same. I emailed Robart with my request, but they aparently are too busy to respond.
Thanks in advance for any and all responses!
Regards to all!
If someone would provide me with copies of the original paperwork, i.e. instructions, parts list, etc.; I would be more that happy to pay the reasonable cost of same. I emailed Robart with my request, but they aparently are too busy to respond.
Thanks in advance for any and all responses!
Regards to all!