ceecrb1

Would I be right in assuming that a glow driver would be a good idea for a "good" plane to help prevent dead-sticks??


trying to decide ifi want to install one on my (soon to be built) F3A planeI'm hoping to use for comps

Lnewqban

An on board glow driver will help regarding peace of mind.

However, it is additional weight, another device to adjust and to maintaing, plus another battery to charge or replace.

Regards!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Pretty much how I feel about them too. Istill have one Ibought years ago but my instructor taught me how to tune an engine so I have never bothered with them. Ihave installed them for other people, both store bought and home made and most of them work pretty well.
If it gives you piece of mind then by all means use one, other then the little bit of added weight and extra work no problem.
If you do a search here on RCU you will find some posts about some of the makes that have been giving a lot of problems and want to avoid them. Not all of the ones sole are that good.

42etus

My Feedback: (2)

What the others have said. Generally, they aren't necessary if the engine is tuned correctly. They add weight and require maintenance themselves.
Paul

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

They're great to have! It's so easy to make one with a micro switch from Hobby Shack, if you don't want to invest on a market available one.
As far as having to charge the battery, if you use a 1.5 V 3600 mah, you'll only charge it maybe once or less a month.
There's less fuss when starting the engine, no need for outside battery and less chances of getting bit by a prop.
Improvesthe lower range of the engine, reliable idling of the engine with instant pick up.
Great on scale airplanes (my reason).
Once installed, there's basically no maintenance at all.
I wouldn't use it on a very small airplane where spaceand a little weightmight be an issue. But on just about anything over 60" wingspan, no problem.
Go ahead and try one, you've nothing to loose and everything to gain!

Lnewqban

Walter:

Could you post any schematic, pics or references to the glow driver you have described?

Thank you

airbusdrvr

Yes, walter d, please describe your system. I, to, am getting ready for a build where I would like to use an on-board-glow system and see no reason that a simple switch actuated by a servo could not be used. Would love to see your system, including battery, switch(where to get it and what kind), etc.

bogbeagle

A simple switch works fine...but, when you advance the throttle beyond your "set-point", the glow is instantly de-energised.

Commercial drivers usually incorporate a delay, such that as the throttle is advanced, the glow remains energised for an extra couple of seconds. Very useful facility.

Other than that, I have nothing but praise for the on-board glow.

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

I'm very busy at the moment, but will post a picture on Monday.

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

I imagine it would be easy to have the microswitch physically activated by the throttle servo.

But put me in the category of "its a crutch for a poorly tuned engine".  A 3600 mah battery will add several ounces of weight, and if its not needed, its just dead weight..  All my engines will idle reliably around 2500 rpm or less, even in winter without the glow driver attached.  Most engines available today are pretty good.  Some take a little more work than others to get dialed in, but once they're tuned, they're tuned for life.  If the tuning goes bad, there's something else going on that needs to be fixed, and an onboard glow driver may hide the symptoms.  My motto on engines is "don't trust it in the air until you can trust it on the ground".

Brad

bogbeagle

Well, it could be an excuse for bad tuning; but you don't have to use it in that fashion.

You could just as well tune your engine perfectly...then add an on-board glow and enjoy an even higher measure of reliability.

But, sure, it ain't compulsory to use a glow system. All I'm saying is that a glow system can make a good engine even better.

ScottMcM

My Feedback: (66)

I've got a Saito twin that occasionally drops a cylinder. On-board glow works great to re-fire it.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

I use on board glows in most all my glow powered planes. It is convenient, adds a level safety (not messing with a starting device), eliminates a hole in the cowl, adds a safety net for dead sticks and looks great. As far as weight goes, it is minimal. I use the type that uses one cell for a battery so charging or changing it is not a big issue for me. It takes a matter of a few minutes to set one up. PM for more details.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

As I stated, use them or don't, it's a pilots choice and if it gives a pilot piece of mind then by all means use one. IfI had any multi cylinder glow enginesI would sure use one.
I'm not one of those weight watchers so the little bit of added weight doesn't figure into it for me. The extra weight can be used to help get the CG set. Ihave made up a couple for planes Ihave built for other people and they work out pretty well. Iuse a micro switch and a micro servo slaved into the throttle so at anything under 1/4 throttle the driver comes on.
Ithink if Ibuilt myself a nice scale warbird that I put a lot of time and effort into I would install one. My choice not to use them is not etched in stone. Ihave just never felt the need for one, YET!!

airbusdrvr

Possible switch: http://www.dimensionengineering.com/BattleSwitch.htm

Are there any electrical wizards who know if this would have the capacity and functionality to be used as a switch for the on board glow? Specifically, would it handle the power used by two glow plugs? A glow plug might go to 5 to 6 amps each at 1.5V. I think I read somewhere in another thread that a glow plug only takes a couple of amps.

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

Glow plugs should draw in the neighbor hood of 1 amp when powered.  That's where I set my driver on my field box.  I've found going over 2 amps drastically shortens the life of the glow plug.

Brad

jimmyjames213

My Feedback: (2)

i think it depends on the plug.
a friend of mine has a glow starter that shows the amps its drawing.
his heli plug (not sure which one) draws 3 amps, while my 2 stoke airplane ones draw around 1.25 amps. ill have to try a 4 cycle plug next tiime and see what that draws
( http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDZ42&P=7 )

airbusdrvr

The amp draw you mention is interesting. I was just going by the OS owners manual mentioning, as I recall, up to 6 amps per plug. Today I'm setting up a test rig and will be experimenting some. I bought several C size 2000mah ni-cad batteries, a couple of switches and battery holders. A side note on the batteries. I went to Radio Shack yesterday for some test supplies. They had C size ni-cads, two to a pack, marked $4.79 on clearance. Thinking that was cheap enough, I bought a pack. Then they rang up 2.79 at the register. So I bought two packs.

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

At this link you'll find the drawing of the system for on board glow, by the way, this is a great site to find a lot about model airplanes. http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...low_system.htm
Below are the pics of my setup using a micro switch from Hobby Shak, I'm using a piece of silicone fuel line to elongate the on-off switch as I didn't have enough space to have the throttle servo pushrod activate it, due to pilot seat being in the way. I have a glow plug connection on the dash board (connecting to the glow plug on the engine) so it is very easy to plug and unplug the battery with a simple twist in order to charge it or using it to start other engines directly on the glow plug, the battery is being held on the floor of the cockpit with velcro, works like a charm!
On another airplane I have exactly the same setup as the one on the schematic (link) with an alkaline C battery, lasts for a whole weekend, then toss it away, on this one, I have the wire that connects to the glow plug attach with a small wheel collar soldered to the end, works perfectly, never comes loose. Hope this helps.

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Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

Lnewqban

Great pictures, thanks!

The silicone tube is a very clever solution, which simplifies the adjustment a lot.

Do you do anything to de-energize the plug whenever the engine is off?

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

Simple, after you kill the engine, move the throttle stick anywhere from half to full throttle, before turning the radio off, this will release the pressure the silicon tube is putting on the microswitch, thereby ending the contact. (The juice comes on at about 1/4 throttle). If you forget to do this after every flight (which I have) you culd ran out of battery power. I've left it for days actually and the plug didn't burn out, the battery I use is 1.5 V 3600 mah, you don't have to charge it but once a month at the most, even if that.

Lnewqban

Last question, Wallter:

Could you refer the type of plug you have tried this on (hot, cold, brand)?

Never happened to me, but I have heard stories of glow filaments being burned out by regular glow drivers applied for too long.

I appreciate your time.

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

Yes they can be burned out, that is why you should never leave the battery on for too long on an engine that is not running, the kind that I use most are Fox and OS, but this should be only important on what type of glow plug the manufacturer recommends (hot or cold) or you find works best for your particular engine and installaion and/or type of fuel, even glow plugs from the same manufacturer differ in its lifespan, usually for what I understand the higer the nitro content (hotter) the less a plug will last, I only use 15 % nitro for my 4 strokers and always run them on the rich side and on my large Supertigre engines all I use is methanol and about 12 % oil, no nitro, on either type of engines my glow plugs last for a very, very long time, even years.

airbusdrvr

I am awaiting its arrival, but I just ordered a receiver actuated electronic switch from Dimension Engineering(www.dimensionengeering.com) . It is called the Battle Switch and according to a phone call to them, it can handle the amp and volt requirements for an on board glow system.