AlphaWhisky

I`ve been lurking around RCU for many years and from time to time have come across reference to Rustoleum rattle can spray paints.

Until recently I never actually came across the stuff.

A few days ago I located a source of supply - and have actually fondled one of these 'different' looking cans...

Before I jump in and buy the product, what is so special about this stuff for painting, or trimming, our model planes...? How, or why, is it any better than other rattle can spray paints?

Just curious....

Alan W

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

Alan,
Many of the Rustoleum colors are fuel-proof, or at least resistant to glow fuel. Other brands may not be. Rustoleum is widely available here in the USA. The Rustoleum golds and silvers are NOT fuel proof. I have had problems with gloss black and white, but have never had a problem with the satin colors I have used.
Chuck

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I've used black, white, red, blue, yellow, with up to 15% nitro. Grey works but you have to let it cure for about 2 weeks. The first time I used grey was on the inside of a decathalon cabin area. After 2 days I had a tank leak that got back in there and paint wiped up during clean up. Edwin

AlphaWhisky

Hi Chuck,

That fuel proof info is handy to know. How does it cope with gas engine residue? My current project is a big Eindecker - 86" span. It is covered with Koverall and most of the airframe sprayed with watered down water-base housepaint. Engine about to be installed is a 25cc Homelite conversion.

The cowling is a fibreglass unit and the forward fuselage is Koverall over sheet balsa. I have coated that with sanding sealer so that the fabric weave is hidden, and intend to spray this area with silver to replicate the aluminium panelling.

I have previously used 'plasti-kote' rattle cans for this type of work and it has been OK, but in this instance I cannot find it in silver. The Rust-Oleum is available in silver.

What do you reckon...?

Alan W

LunaSea

I have been using Rustoleum paints over fabric... I have not found a problem with gasoline engine residue (there isn't much is you use the right oil and what little there is doesn't seem to affect the paint). Glow residue may be more of an issue, I haven't tried that.... I also haven't tried gold or silver metallic paints, only solid colors (red, yellow, blue, green, orange, etc.). I have been VERY HAPPY with the coverage rate and run-resistance of the paint. The only "issue" I have discovered is doing re-coats you either have to do the second coat while the first is still tacky OR wait till it hardens completely (a day). Otherwise it can wrinkle and make a MESS... Most spray paints have this characteristic. Also, I have used it over satin WPBU and also Minwax Polycryllic. I think it "sticks" better to the satin WPBU. I have had some minor "lifting" issues when removing masking tape when over Minwax.

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

Alan,
I am certain that the silver will NOT hold up to glow fuel!!![:'(] I have a gasoline powered Morane A-1 that has several Rustoleum satin colors on it and they have held up very well.
Chuck

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I concur, the Rustoleum silver (and other metallics) have little, if any, resistance to glow fuel. The red and the blue on my Sea Fury held up better but still orange peeled along the belly where the exhaust residue accumulated. And I even clear coated the airplane with urethane. I have used yellow Rustoleum on another airplane and it withstood 15% nitro fuel residue with no problems at all. I imagine that Rustoleum, and probably just about any other spray enamel, would hold up to gasoline exhaust residue with no problems at all.

yel914

What about Rustoleum clear over latex house paint? Is that gas and nitro proof? Does it yellow with age? Just looking for the Holy Grail of clear coats in a rattle can.

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

Rustoleum clear is NOT fuel resistant. And, clear urethanes will yellow over light colors. The only non-yellowing fuel proof paints that I know of (other than auto clear coat) is Warbird Colors, Nelson's (both water based) and Klass Kote. Those three will give you excellent results, but anything else is risky.

ron12901

Has anybody tried thinning Z-Poxy finishing resin to use as a fuel proof clear coat? Z-Poxy finishing resin is recommended to fuel proof the fire wall. Don't know how much weight it would add?

littlera

I have been using Rustoleum Specialty Appliance Epoxy on landing gear and struts on planes using 15% glow fuel. It is COMPLETELY FUEL PROOF, at least in white color. Have been very pleased. On one plane the exhaust dumps right onto the gear, and the paint just laugh at it! It is also available in "stainless steel" and black colors. Don't know what the stainless looks like, but it is a silver of some description. Of less interest, it is available in other appliance colors like beige. Check the web site.

This paint dries very hard and very glossy, just like the old K&B epoxy paints. It is as good as an automotive finish. Follow the directions carefully. If not recoated within 1/2 hour, you must wait two weeks. I tried it after one week, and it wrinkled. It must cure the two weeks as the can says.

Randy L.

da Rock

I've got lots of experience thinning epoxies and what you suggest is not a good idea. However..............

If you are ok with the idea of mixing your fuel proof layer, epoxy clear paint exists in several brands. Depending on where you live, it might be readily available or nowhere to be found. The unfortunate thing about epoxy paint is that it's not lightweight stuff.

If you are ok with a little work, Nelson's and KlassKote has already been mentioned. They sell an additive for making it near bullet proof and it works great, but you've got to be able to spray paint and have the equipment to do it.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Fuel proof is when you can flood a test panel with 40% nitro fuel for a couple days and not notice any degradation.
Anything less than a 2 part [catalyzed] paint system falls well short of this.
I'm not going to spend XX hours on final prep with any model and gamble the results on Rustoleum....been burned too many times long ago.
If you value your time and want a sure thing, go with Klasskote or K&B epoxy paint.
I suppose if you're the type who smokes 1/2 a pack just to work up the courage to put in a lazy flight once a month, then spend an hour immediately following that flight meticulously cleaning your plane with Q Tips and a magnifying glass.... then rattle can finishes might be OK.......

heavy metal thunder

I've used Rustoleum on foam with good results. The key is to spray several light dusting coats (usually 4 or 5) until you build up enough light coats to seal the foam. Let it dry between each application. My first try at doing this was on a old Cox PT-19 trainer. As always you want to spray enough to cover the airplane, but not so much to add too much weight.