Epoxy/Denatured Alcohol mixing question
I am just wondering if you guys have ever noticed when mixing Epoxy with Denatured Alcohol that the epoxy hardens quicker than normal ?
(Devcon 2 Ton Epxoy) Jim |
I have not. In fact, many of the times I have tried to thin epoxy it cures but never really hardens. It stays rubbery. Far better to use an epoxy that is already thin such as the Z-poxy type. I can also highly recommend the WEST system epoxies.
An alternative to using a thin epoxy or thinning out a thicker epoxy is to use heat like from a Monokote style heat gun. Use that on a small cup of already mixed epoxy and it will get to almost the consistency of water but you have to brush it on quickly because the heat definitely will make it cure much, much faster. |
Originally Posted by Steve Collins
(Post 12450509)
I have not. In fact, many of the times I have tried to thin epoxy it cures but never really hardens. It stays rubbery.
I have seen epoxy rubberize before so I know what you are talking about, I have also seen it (when mixed with Denatured Alcohol) to just take longer to fully cure than normal.. I have bought West System epoxies way back in 97 for a full size V-Drive boat, good stuff, I'm betting it even better today Jim |
I have noticed a very fast cure time to 30- Minute Epoxy when I added milled fiberglass to the mix!
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Originally Posted by tailskid
(Post 12450579)
I have noticed a very fast cure time to 30- Minute Epoxy when I added milled fiberglass to the mix!
Jim |
I use BobSmithIndustries 30min epoxy and denatured alcohol, usually thinned about 50/50. For me it takes a bit longer for the epoxy to fully cure, then if I just use straight epoxy. When it does cure and fully dry, it's rock hard. There's no "rubbery" about it. When I mix a batch I have more working time when I add alcohol which is nice for coating/painting it on smoothly. If I want a good finish, I use a good brush, If it's just a firewall I just use a throw-away acid-brush.
Climate plays a big part though with any type of resin like this. I'm in the middle of summer here in Cali, and temps are hitting over 100 degrees here in the valley, and everything cures faster no matter how you slice it. I do my work out in the shop before the afternoon heat hits me, but yeah.. some days it hovers around 100 in my shop. No problem with anything curing/drying here... and everything cures fast too. If I'm using just straight 30min epoxy in the heat like that, I only have about maybe 17-18 minutes of good work time before it starts going off... Very doable, and I actually love using epoxies in this environment for that reason. I use 5min very rarely in this heat...work time with that is maybe 3 minutes. Fine for a quickie, but I'm never in any hurry anyway. |
thanks for the reply.. I have noticed my epoxy a bit rubbery before yet it's surface is hard, but after a few days it cures solid
Jim |
Since I use West Systems and it says right on their website not to mix in any solvents, I won't. What I do mix in is their 404 silica and have found that part of the reason it cures "faster" is the added time it takes to actually mix it to get the silica evenly blended in
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I will thin my laminating epoxy depending on the job at hand but never more than 10% .The pictured airplane, when laying up the fuselage had the epoxy thinned and when glassing the wings and stabs as well. The fuselage layup is 1.4oz surface cloth followed by a layer of 3.6oz cloth, 1/32 contest balsa and a final layer of 3.6oz. Very light layup. The IPA used will slow pot life and cure time. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...66bfec413.jpeg |
My understanding is thinning with alcohol will weaken the epoxy bond. While I've never seen this myself I've heard enough people swear by it to keep it in mind.
Rubbery epoxy suggests it wasn't mixed as thoroughly as it needs to be. I've seen this happen when adding the alcohol before the epoxy is mixed. Mix the epoxy first before adding the alcohol. As a rule I no longer thin with alcohol. If I need thinner epoxy, I'll go out and find it. |
I will thin epoxy with denatured alcohol ONLY when I am applying light (3/4 oz) cloth over balsa. In this thin layer I feel the alcohol has enough time to evaporate before the epoxy gells and trap any solvent in the mix.
Ken |
Ken, this sounds like it would be a great topic for my Facebook composites page. I am working on a segment now that will be dealing with adding different fillers to laminating resin for different jobs. Once that is done I can document making two identical layups with a core material, one with thinned resin and the other without. After a 48 hour cure do some structural tests. |
Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie
(Post 12459785)
Ken, this sounds like it would be a great topic for my Facebook composites page. I am working on a segment now that will be dealing with adding different fillers to laminating resin for different jobs. Once that is done I can document making two identical layups with a core material, one with thinned resin and the other without. After a 48 hour cure do some structural tests. Ken |
I was told many years ago by a manufacturer to only thin epoxy with styrene but have never tried it.
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Originally Posted by Faux Fisherman
(Post 12471540)
I was told many years ago by a manufacturer to only thin epoxy with styrene but have never tried it.
Styrene Monomer is the thinner for polyester resin not Epoxy |
good point to clarify between polyester resin and true epoxy...... many people aren't aware of the difference.
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