New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54
#451
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: pinckney,
MI
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54
make sure you change the wing servos in a pair!!!!!
also if you want i can ship you servos that i buy here in the states .. im sure it would cost you far less!! read my ratings here on rcu
also if you want i can ship you servos that i buy here in the states .. im sure it would cost you far less!! read my ratings here on rcu
#452
RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54
Oh, ok!!
Thank you very much!!!
Just let me receive the plane and take a breath (this is a very hard year beggining) and than when I start to get the servos I will ask you help for sure!! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]
Thank you very much!!!
Just let me receive the plane and take a breath (this is a very hard year beggining) and than when I start to get the servos I will ask you help for sure!! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]
#454
Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: 69" QQ Yak-54
The stock/standard engine mount will be fine. I have used the stock engine mount in my 73" QQ Yak with a YS140s for 3 years and counting. Never had any issues.
I would recommend pinning the firewall. In addition to pinning I also wrap the edges of the engine box/firewall with .5oz fiberglass and seal the entire engine box area with epoxy.
Cheers,
Chris
I would recommend pinning the firewall. In addition to pinning I also wrap the edges of the engine box/firewall with .5oz fiberglass and seal the entire engine box area with epoxy.
Cheers,
Chris
#456
Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: 69" QQ Yak-54
I never tried toothpics as I thought there were kind of skimpy and wouldnt suggest them. I actually use T-Pins to pin my firewalls and then use a dremmel to cut them off flush. Bamboo skewers will work great also. I have used those in other areas with good results.
To pin the firewall drill 2 holes in each side of the engine box going into the firewall as well as 3 holes along the top and bottom just big enough so the skewer is a snug fit and needs to be tapped in. Add epoxy to the hole and the pin and tap the pin in place. Medium CA can be used also. Stay away from the thin CA as it will not allow enough time for the pin to be tapped in.
Chris
To pin the firewall drill 2 holes in each side of the engine box going into the firewall as well as 3 holes along the top and bottom just big enough so the skewer is a snug fit and needs to be tapped in. Add epoxy to the hole and the pin and tap the pin in place. Medium CA can be used also. Stay away from the thin CA as it will not allow enough time for the pin to be tapped in.
Chris
#458
RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54
Guys, I thought we were talking here about a Somenzini kit with the same quality we should expect of this name.
I am so piss off right now and I not even finished the elevator of this plane.
Dude, first of all, this guy is a freaking 3D beast. One of the best pilots of the world (I am a personal fan) and it is something that he uses to sell his kits. So, how could he develop that f***ing elevator system??? Ok, it's much better to use one servo than two. We save some weight and some bucks too. BUT this kit should have a tail cut big enough to make the carbon tube run through without touch anywhere giving us enough 3D rates.
Mine is bad, giving me less rates than I would expect from a QQ kit. I saw a dude complaning the same some posts ago and so Reza said: Just sand it!! Just sand it??? C'mon!! I paid for this kit 2 times the price of a Showtime here in Brazil and I don't want to sand anything here. Not because I simply don't want to do, but because this will ruin my really expensive airplane!!!! But what could I do? So I did!! But was not easy as "just sand it". That thing is made of plywood. I had to use my Dreamel do "sand it". The result: I couldn't make the same turning cut top and bottom. Thank God I could make the both fuse side looking almost the same, but for me this thing is ugly now. Now I have some 3D rates, but my plane have now I retard clown smile in the as*. (pics).
The elevators carbon tube joint seems to be too short to be there. Even marking its center, I can feel with my hands that its is getting its place inside the elevators just a little bit. We can feel that the elevator hole is not a tube where the carbon is stuck since the beginning. The most part of the way the carbon is "floating" there and to put it the same in each elevator I can feel it gets in place just a little bit. But I don't want to think about that. I will glue it (with epoxy) and fly. God save me.
Ok, I could live with that. But when I was gluing the H stab, I couldn't believe the manual saying to do it with CA. A 3D plane with a H stab glued by CA???? And the H stab doesn't have any "table" or something to hold it. Just some balsa and the fuse plywood holds it on its place.
So, of course I had to replace the CA for some strong epoxy. BUT (another but), the fuse hole where the stab should be in is much more bigger than the H stab profile. There's just some few points where the H stab really touch the fuse (its top and its front). The rest is just a big and empity hole with nothing. I had to make a mix of epoxy and microbaloons to fill this holes (pics).
Oh, and to make my day complete, they sent me a broken hinge. Now, I am very far from them and I can expect (and I don't want to wait) they sending me ONE replacement hinge. I will have to get a complete package of Dubro giant hines just to take one to my Yak.
And W*F I am saying this?? They are gonna out of business anyway, so I don't believe they will care about me right now.
Just to remember. I barely have my assembly started. I just made the four firsts steps of the manual and I got problem with all of them... I am really scary about finish this plane...
I am so piss off right now and I not even finished the elevator of this plane.
Dude, first of all, this guy is a freaking 3D beast. One of the best pilots of the world (I am a personal fan) and it is something that he uses to sell his kits. So, how could he develop that f***ing elevator system??? Ok, it's much better to use one servo than two. We save some weight and some bucks too. BUT this kit should have a tail cut big enough to make the carbon tube run through without touch anywhere giving us enough 3D rates.
Mine is bad, giving me less rates than I would expect from a QQ kit. I saw a dude complaning the same some posts ago and so Reza said: Just sand it!! Just sand it??? C'mon!! I paid for this kit 2 times the price of a Showtime here in Brazil and I don't want to sand anything here. Not because I simply don't want to do, but because this will ruin my really expensive airplane!!!! But what could I do? So I did!! But was not easy as "just sand it". That thing is made of plywood. I had to use my Dreamel do "sand it". The result: I couldn't make the same turning cut top and bottom. Thank God I could make the both fuse side looking almost the same, but for me this thing is ugly now. Now I have some 3D rates, but my plane have now I retard clown smile in the as*. (pics).
The elevators carbon tube joint seems to be too short to be there. Even marking its center, I can feel with my hands that its is getting its place inside the elevators just a little bit. We can feel that the elevator hole is not a tube where the carbon is stuck since the beginning. The most part of the way the carbon is "floating" there and to put it the same in each elevator I can feel it gets in place just a little bit. But I don't want to think about that. I will glue it (with epoxy) and fly. God save me.
Ok, I could live with that. But when I was gluing the H stab, I couldn't believe the manual saying to do it with CA. A 3D plane with a H stab glued by CA???? And the H stab doesn't have any "table" or something to hold it. Just some balsa and the fuse plywood holds it on its place.
So, of course I had to replace the CA for some strong epoxy. BUT (another but), the fuse hole where the stab should be in is much more bigger than the H stab profile. There's just some few points where the H stab really touch the fuse (its top and its front). The rest is just a big and empity hole with nothing. I had to make a mix of epoxy and microbaloons to fill this holes (pics).
Oh, and to make my day complete, they sent me a broken hinge. Now, I am very far from them and I can expect (and I don't want to wait) they sending me ONE replacement hinge. I will have to get a complete package of Dubro giant hines just to take one to my Yak.
And W*F I am saying this?? They are gonna out of business anyway, so I don't believe they will care about me right now.
Just to remember. I barely have my assembly started. I just made the four firsts steps of the manual and I got problem with all of them... I am really scary about finish this plane...
#459
RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54
Ok.
This plane is turning my worst and more expesive nigthmare.
After working one whole week just on the elevators to try to get the best look I could among those problems I've related, I went to start the ailerons.
One of them is totaly warped. But not in some way that I can fix. The leading edge is warped horizontally. So the gap between the aileron and the wign is not constant.
I have on the wings beginning 2mm gap. In the middle 1mm or less. And on the and I have 5mm or more. Putting the both wings togheter and looking them at the end you can see how different they are looking.
This kit is a disrespect. If you can't do good things, please don't do nothing.
Somenzini s***s. I am not his fan anymore. Thank God he is out now. He need to thinks what he is doing...
This plane is turning my worst and more expesive nigthmare.
After working one whole week just on the elevators to try to get the best look I could among those problems I've related, I went to start the ailerons.
One of them is totaly warped. But not in some way that I can fix. The leading edge is warped horizontally. So the gap between the aileron and the wign is not constant.
I have on the wings beginning 2mm gap. In the middle 1mm or less. And on the and I have 5mm or more. Putting the both wings togheter and looking them at the end you can see how different they are looking.
This kit is a disrespect. If you can't do good things, please don't do nothing.
Somenzini s***s. I am not his fan anymore. Thank God he is out now. He need to thinks what he is doing...
#461
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: pinckney,
MI
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54
i agree i have built all of his plane except the 120" let me say onece you put it in the air you will kick yourself in the @$$ for whining.. it will fly great.. however.. seal the hinge line.. these planes are a blast..
#463
RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54
ORIGINAL: mobilemenice80
onece you put it in the air you will kick yourself in the @$$ for whining.. it will fly great.. however.. seal the hinge line.. these planes are a blast..
onece you put it in the air you will kick yourself in the @$$ for whining.. it will fly great.. however.. seal the hinge line.. these planes are a blast..