Northern Mike

I'm trying to dial in the suspension and drive train on an LX2e I picked up as a used roller.
The issues I'm having is when cornering at speed, I either roll the car with high traction or under steer when on loose gravel or less traction situations.

I've tried slowing then powering through and most cases, end up under steering unless I'm crawling.

One 1:1 car trick that sometimes works on loose is to let off a bit of throttle, snap the steering outward, then snap into the corner and power throw.

Most cases, the inside front wheel lifts off the ground.

I'm running OEM sway bars front and rear, with 50wt in the front diff, 90wt in the center, and 35wt in the rear.

Shocks are 50wt in the front and 45wt in the rear (I believe, didn't change the rear oil but did check the shocks).

The high traction terrain is mostly grass and the loose terrain is mostly granular A gravel.

I'll admit I've new(ish) to 4wd rc, and ran a 1/10 2wd Rustler without sway bars in the snow all winter with way too much power. When I wanted to turn in the snow, let off a bit on the throttle so the fronts got traction, turn and power through.

nitroexpress

I look at the LX2e manual and it shows how to fill the diffs with grease (not unusual for a RTR). On another forum I see a member posting the following -

"The diffs come with 5k up front, 3k in the back, 7k in the middle (at least that's how my 80% Came.)"

Your 50/90/35 setup seems like a old school, high weight setup. Try 5/7/3 or something close.

Also, under steer on loose stuff could be a weak servo, loose servo saver, or wrong tire selection.

I would be hard to find one ideal tire for both high traction and low traction. Sometimes it takes two tire designs for two situations.

Northern Mike

I pulled the front sway bar off and tightened the preload on the front a hair to compensate.
What a difference. The buggy is so much more responsive in cornering. The front wheels stay planted and the power to the ground.
I still have a bit of suspension adjustments, but I think ditching the sway bar in the front was exactly what I needed. Even with bald clay tires on gravel or grass, the buggy goes where I want it to.

I do find in the one pack of testing that stability is lessened at high speeds on rough terrain. This will be addressed with the further adjustments.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

The weight of the diff fluids also influences under and oversteer. The diff fluid should also be a number in the thousands, 5,000wt not 50wt. People will commonly refer to 5,000 at 5k or just 5 when listing all three diffs weights, ie 10/30/5. The front should also be a higher weight than the rear. Center fluid in nitro is usually in between the front and rear weight, but in electric the center should be at least as high in weight as the front if not more.

Northern Mike

I'm waiting for the diff oil to get back in stock where I order it. We no longer have a local (ish) hobby shop so everything is mail order.
Going to pick up 3, 5, 7, 10k weights. Was thinking 30k for my lock center diff (spare diff) but a couple spots of JB weld will do the job.
Will start with 5/7/3 for my general race setup and see how it works out.
For the formula Offroad setup, I'm not sure if 7 or 10 up front would be better. Center will be locked and rear will be 3 or 5.

nitroexpress

What is formula offroad?

Northern Mike

Not my video (honestly don't know where it was taken) but it pretty much covers what my build (along with other locals) are going for.
http://youtu.be/vr8FfeYu800 Here pic I have posted of the buggy in the early stages of the build. I have made progress in the drive train and damaged the body. Added a temp monitor so I don't pop this motor