FAT245

Hi Guys,

Sorry for the noob questions as I am fresh to the RC Hobby scene.
I did have a Tamiya Grasshopper a few years ago when in high school but thats old tech lol!
i do have an I.T. and Electronics Background so if i need to modify something I can, I have access to lathes, mills as well

Here is the scenario, A few friend and I are buying an Arrma Typhon and going to have a competition between us on who can build the fastest, most of them have experience with RC Cars.
I am looking for the best ESC & Motor Combo Upgrade, which will provide me some great take off performance as well as some high speed runs with crazy acceleration (80MPH+), but can also be re-geared for some course racing and bashing through local parks.

i don't really have a budget in mind as as with real life cars, you need to spend money to beat the competition .
Any Recommendations for Suspension and Tyre upgrades might be required as well HAHA!

Thank you for your help in advance.

FAT

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

Let me dispel a big myth about rc cars before anything else. Yes you can upgrade electronics and some other things but there's no magic "upgrade" when it comes to suspension. For some vehicles you can buy suspension pieces made in different materials but 99% of the time the geometry is the same. There are no aftermarket shocks for the Typhoon but you could probably find a shock from another vehicle that'll be a bit smoother and possibly more durable. This isn't always necessary though and it won't make your buggy handle better. This is a major difference between rc and full size cars. In rc you came time the shock with different springs, weight oil and shock Pistons with different size holes in them. Combined with tuning the weight of the oil in the diffs, this is how you tune the handling of the buggy to suit the terrain and your driving preferences.

The biggest handling change you can make though is tires. Which ones depends on the terrain and if you're going to be on a track you can ask others what fire works well for that particular surface instead of experimenting on your own.

The stock motor and esc will be fine for track use as it's more than enough power, even on 4s. If you want the ultimate in control and customization look at Tekin systems. They're sensored and offer smoother throttle and braking for better control in a track racing environment. Sensored isn't quite as smooth but does tend to have more outright power. For speed runs, idk what the stock setup is capable of but buy a 6s pack, a temp gun and find out. It's probably good for about 75-80mph but any standard size 1/8 motor (40-42mm diameter 74mm long) can only make a pass or two when geared for 70+mph before needing some cool down. For safe temps during continuous running figure on being geared for 50mph or less. A heatsink+fan combo will reduce cool down time, a longer more powerful motor will be able to make more passes before needing cool down time.

joelhickey10

Does anyone know if its safe and what does it change if I use the Kraton 10t spiral input gear and the spiral 43t diff gear on the Typhon instead of the stock 13t input gear?

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

13/43 is 3.31:1 ratio while 10/43 is 4.10:1 ratio so it would slow the buggy down. These are standard buggy and truggy ratios. Truggy uses 4.10:1 because of the larger tires, without this gearing in the diffs they'd need a larger spur gear. The first truggies used 3.31:1 buggy diffs and had to use spur gears as large as 66t in order to compensate for the gearing change the larger tires made.

I don't know if the Kraton 10t will work with the buggy 43t ring gear. The gears likely have the same pitch but they may not be able to mesh properly if the buggy ring gear is too far away from the pinion. In full size cars the ring gear thickness varies according to the gear ratio to achieve proper mesh. A ring gear intended for 4.10:1 is thicker than one for 3.31:1 since the pinion is smaller on the 4.10:1 ratio.

RustyUs

Welcome to RCU!

The Typhon's ESC and motor are 6S capable. My .02 cents on the whole upgrade thing? Buy a 6S pack and let-r-rip. If you find you can handle the speed (other than doing speed runs and running on asphalt), great! I'm guessing the sweet spot will be running the Typhon on 4S...but that's just me. Go and get the speed runs out of you system. I think I am safe to say that every RCer goes through this.

But yeah, tires are the most import tuning item in setting up a vehicle.

joelhickey10

Is there a way to protect the large inner hub bearing? and the diff bearings? The hub bearing gets gritty and dirty after running one pack through it and a lot of the time at least on of the four usually cease up. Ive searched everywhere but cant find a solution. O and the diff bearings just seem to collect dirt right where the output is. It will be caked around the output but nowhere else..... thanks

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

Theres really not much you can do. Maybe try smearing a little silicone sealer on the face of them to try and get a better seal? Don't know how good of an idea that is but it's the only one I got at the moment. But you gotta be careful you don't force any silicone into the bearing and that the inner race moves freely. On the next bearing replacement buy good rubber sealed bearings as they usually seal out dirt better than metal shielded bearings and should last longer.

Edit: Also avoid ceramic bearings. They're smoother but when dirt gets in them they fail quicker than steel bearings.